Chain noise and brake power
 

Hi, I'm having two small problems with my recently finished fixie. It's a Raleigh Record with IRO cranks, and when I apply alot of pressure to the pedals (e.g. going up a steep hill), I hear a clicking in the (I think) chain, near/at the chainring. Of course, it's hard to pinpoint the source while riding, and I can't replicate it without riding, so the chainring is my best guess. Is this a common problem, or even something to worry about?

Also, I can't get my front brake to really stop the wheel. It's a center pull cantillever, the Raleigh original, with new brake pads. The brake lever is an inline brake lever of unknown brand (without a drop handlebar brake before it, its got bullhorns). I've got the brake cable extremely tight, and I can apply plenty of pressure, but no matter how hard I pull, the wheel simply will not stop moving. It slows it down considerably, but I'd feel alot more confident riding if it would stop completely. I've read about mechanical advantage, but I can't see how I'd adjust it on these brakes. Any suggestions?

Thanks,
Ash

Is the clicking once per revolution of the chain or more constant?

How many mm are the brake pads away from the rim when not pulling on the lever?

More constant the once per rotation, but not all the way. Sometimes, the clicking happens softer, but more often. I think it is dependant on the force applied.

The pads are no more than a couple millimeter away from the rim. The wheel needs to be trued, so I cant have them closer, but even when I did, they did not grasp the rim securely.

For the clicking, check your chain ring bolts. If any bolts are loose, grease them and re-tighten. Hopefully you used grease when you installed them; otherwise, sometimes they come loose and the chainring rattles, which can cause it to break. Also, check your chain tension. If you have a lot of play, then it could be the cranking shifting back and forth in the play of the chain when you climb, as you likely won't have a smooth cadence when you're exerting a ton of force.

The chainring/cranks came pre assembled, so I just bolted them on the BB. Should I take the chainring off and put it back on? And as far as the chain tension goes, there is not a lot of play, though I have always had a hard time telling what a good tension is. There is no visible slack, but if I pull up on the chain, it goes up a bit. Is this too loose?

http://sheldonbrown.com/cantilever-adjustment.html

for trouble shoot brakes

I read those articles, but the advice given in them did not seem to be applicable to the brakes i have. There is no way I can see to adjust mechanical advantage on the stock Raleigh brakes.

is the chain and chainring new or is one or both of them used

if one is worn the chain will make noise, lots of it if its bad, especially if the chainring has lots of wear and then you put on a new chain

old brake pads or new? the big block shaped diacompe style? if so, they are quite hard and take awhile to work right, roughing them up with some sandpaper helps sometimes, and if youve got a chrome plated steel rim you will never have real good braking power compared to an alloy rim with a good brake either

Both chain and chainring are new, and the brake pads are new. They are a block i guess, I dont know the diacompe style. The rim is chrome, so I guess that could be a problem, but it has indents for better brake grip.

for chain, check to see if it is too tight. on my 1st it did the same as well until some1 told me it was too tight. let someone, who knows what thet are doing SHOW you proper tension

you may want to get a newer style of brake because those kinds you have aren't the best anymore and don't apply the same brake power like they do now

Your steel rim will definitely affect braking power when it's wet. \they are notorious for making braking much worse in the rain.

You adjust mechanical advantage of a brake lever by installing a brake booster. But try replacing your cable and see if that helps.

You may just need to replace the old caliper. If so and if your frame is compatible i'd install a nice new dual pivot caliper.

With the bike on the ground, grab the crank with your hand and move it back and forth. It should move slightly with whatever play is on the chain. Is that the same clicking noise you're hearing when you climb?

I'll check the sound and get back to you.

I think I'll get a Tektro 501D dual pivot caliper. Is that a good model? I'm buying it used.

edit: and the cable is new, so I hope I don't need to replace it. How would I tell what kind to buy if the current one is the problem?

New brake cable tends to stretch a bit as well

If the cable is new it oughta be good for a while yet.

Make sure the Tektro caliper is compatible with the brake reach in your fork. Sheldon says how to measure reach. Yes that caliper should work great if it fits.

If you swap out your steel rims for aluminum, at least in front, that will be a very noticeable braking upgrade though certainly more expensive than a caliper. Used front wheels can be had for cheap at sports consignment stores, though it might be harder to find one if your record is set up for 27 inch wheels.

Well, I got the brake calipers (before reading your post, mander), and lowe and behold, they are too short. Should I buy a new fork? The current fork is a little bent anyway, so it wouldn't be a total money sink. Would this be feasible?

Poop, I thought that might happen. Threaded forks are tricky for a beginner to figure out how to replace, because there are a number of factors to keep in mind that have to do with your frame geometry and fitting the thing in there. It will almost certainly be easier and cheaper to find a nice long reach brake caliper (measure your fork reach first this time :)), install that, and maybe get an lbs guy to bend your fork back.

Clicking could also be in your pedals. Also, make extra sure your everything is tight down there. This includes pedals, chainring bolts, crank bolts.

Thanks for all the help. Now, I'm considering just going ahead and buying a used 700cc wheel that'll grip better, and using a drop bolt. I saw Sheldon's instructions for making one, but I was wondering if there are any premade ones out there that are a little more elegant? I know, it's pure vanity, but I haven't been able to find one so far.

Edit: Here's one http://www.loosescrews.com/index.cgi...d=765445814985

My brake (now) is a Shimano, which is not listed here. Would it still work, and does anyone know how it looks?

you might not even need a drop bolt
centerpulls usually have a ton of reach. and you only need to drop the pads by 4mm.
if they don't quite reach whip out a file and extend the slots.

Ideally, I'd like to use the Shimano brake, as even with the chrome wheel and rubbing a little on the tire, it gives great stopping power.

oops serves me right for not reading the whole thread.

whatever you do don't ride with a brake that rubs your tire. You'll eventually wear through the sidewall and have a blowout. A blowout at speed on a front tire is something i'd wish upon anyone.

If you want to use that shimano brake then you'll need a drop bolt, or will need to lengthen the slots if there's enough material

personally I'd get a new brake
a tektro R556.

I guess I'll order a pair of those, then. If I was to add a 700cc wheel to the front later, do you think they would work? Or would I be back to looking for a drop bolt?

My guess is that they should work. Your best bet is to actually measure the reach that you need

The R556's have 55-73mm reach.
your shimano long reach brake is probably 47-57mm reach.

Also, you'll have to drill out the back of your fork crown to use the R556's since they use a recessed nut.

I've already drilled out the back of the fork, so I'm good to go on the brakes. The reach on the 27" rim is ~60mm, so he tektros should be more than adequate. I don't have a 700cc wheel to measure the reach on, however, and my math skills aren't up to calculating the difference. Is there a formula I could use, or has someone else used one of these brakes on a 700cc?