Beginner Bike
#1
klp14klp
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Beginner Bike
I know this might be annoying because there are so many of these types of posts, but everywhere I go has a different story. I am looking for a moderate beginner fixie/freewheel. I would like a flip-flop hub, but I can always upgrade to that. I know I get what I pay for, but I really just want an opinion for what is best. I heard the Kilo TT is good and I also heard that Dawes SST, and The Hour are good. I am looking for a price at or around $300 max $375.
Thanks,
klp14klp
Thanks,
klp14klp
#3
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It sounds like you sorta already know the answer to your question. My vote is the Kilo, I feel like it has the best looking fork out of those BikesDirect choices, and I own one myself and love it.
#4
klp14klp
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Yeah,
The only problem is that my good friend is about to get the Kilo TT, and I don't really want to always be riding around with the same bike.
Thanks for responds
The only problem is that my good friend is about to get the Kilo TT, and I don't really want to always be riding around with the same bike.
Thanks for responds
#5
chickenosaurus
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I have to plug the Schwinn Madison here. You can usually find them for under 400 and are IMO just as nice or nicer than the Kilo (at least when totally stock, most parts are better (hubs, etc.) ) I have not really ridden the kilo at all very much so I can't give a review, but I can just say that my Madison is very nice.
#6
Ths Hipstr Kills Masheenz
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kilo is more tight clearance and track-like, madison is same as se lager and is pretty much a road bike with high bb.
i think the windsor hour is the absolute best beginner bike.
i think the windsor hour is the absolute best beginner bike.
#7
klp14klp
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Also, this might be a dumb questions, but what does it mean when a bike is threadless or threaded?
Thanks,
klp14klp
Thanks,
klp14klp
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It's the type of headset needed, and the stem that will go along with the setup.
Threaded looks like this:
Threadless looks like this:
Threadless is more stiff.....Threaded, in my opinion, is better looking and easier to work on. Many people will say threadless is easier to work on, though.
Threaded looks like this:
Threadless looks like this:
Threadless is more stiff.....Threaded, in my opinion, is better looking and easier to work on. Many people will say threadless is easier to work on, though.
#10
Ths Hipstr Kills Masheenz
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i am one of those that would say threadless is easier to work on.
as long as you know what you're doing, it requires less tools and fewer adjustments. it's also WAY lighter.
as long as you know what you're doing, it requires less tools and fewer adjustments. it's also WAY lighter.
#11
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You just need a wrench big enough for the nuts on a threaded headset (pipe wrench will do in a pinch, but a headset wrench works better).
One of the Nuts tightens/loosens the headset, and the other locks the other nut. I love it, but some people hate it. It's just personal preference.
One of the Nuts tightens/loosens the headset, and the other locks the other nut. I love it, but some people hate it. It's just personal preference.
#12
klp14klp
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Ok,
So my friend is getting the Kilo so I don't really want to get the same bike. Would I be wasting my money if I got the Windsor Hour. Is it a good bike for a beginner, will it get the job done? If not, what is another bike along those bikes that has no back brake and comes with a flip flop hub?
Thanks for all the help,
klp14klp
So my friend is getting the Kilo so I don't really want to get the same bike. Would I be wasting my money if I got the Windsor Hour. Is it a good bike for a beginner, will it get the job done? If not, what is another bike along those bikes that has no back brake and comes with a flip flop hub?
Thanks for all the help,
klp14klp
#13
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In my opinion, the Kilo TT is the best bang for the buck. I'd just get it in a different color.
Plus, you'll end up upgrading eventually anyways, and the bikes will end up looking different in a couple months anyway.
Plus, you'll end up upgrading eventually anyways, and the bikes will end up looking different in a couple months anyway.
#14
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ITT: We plug whichever bike we bought from BikesDirect. The Clockwork is essentially sex on wheels. I love mine. I'm fairly certain that I'd love any BikesDirect bike had I bought it instead though.
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I don't have, nor have I had any bike from bikesdirect. I build my own. But if I were to get a bike from bikesdirect, it would definately be the kilo tt. I'd spend the extra $20-$50 for the reynolds 520 tubing over the crmo 4130 used on the other frames. But that's just me.
#16
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Reynolds 520 is just 4130 with a brand name. Don't let that swing your opinion.
If you have a Performance close to you, then I'd second the Schwinn Madison comment. It's nice to be able to actually test ride a bike before you buy it, and it's really a solid build for the money also. Another perk is that you can take it back to the shop much easier if there are actually problems with it, even if said shop is actually a Performance Bike.
If you have a Performance close to you, then I'd second the Schwinn Madison comment. It's nice to be able to actually test ride a bike before you buy it, and it's really a solid build for the money also. Another perk is that you can take it back to the shop much easier if there are actually problems with it, even if said shop is actually a Performance Bike.
#17
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I +1 the clockwork too just because it has the brakes, since it's for a beginner.
#18
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If I were to settle for the Kilo TT, should I go with the purple or the green? Also, I am about 5'10", 160, and would like the Kilo to last me for a while, what size should I get?
Thanks for all the help
Thanks for all the help
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All personal preference man. I love green bikes.
I'm 5'10" and ride a 52cm c-c seat tube bike with a 55.5 cm top tube and a 70mm stem, so I'd get something along those lines, but it depends what you like, and how your body is proportioned. Maybe go to a bike shop and sit on a couple different sized bikes and see what measurements you like the most. The most important measurement will be the top tube length as that is how much you are going to have to stretch out to grab the bars.
I'm 5'10" and ride a 52cm c-c seat tube bike with a 55.5 cm top tube and a 70mm stem, so I'd get something along those lines, but it depends what you like, and how your body is proportioned. Maybe go to a bike shop and sit on a couple different sized bikes and see what measurements you like the most. The most important measurement will be the top tube length as that is how much you are going to have to stretch out to grab the bars.