ha. i tried it and the search had a hernia. thankfully there's google.

Then you should trade somebody a shoeshine for the bearing replacement.

external indexing does work better than the search

Except you end up bringing **** back from the dead.

maybe, but it was an interesting read

Sorry to bring this back from the dead, but I bought my PW bearings and also a 15mm and 17mm cone wrench and have two questions:

1. In addition to removing the 15mm cone nut do you also remove the 17mm locknut?

2. How much do you tighten the locknut and the cone on top of it after the bearings are pressed in? Since it is a sealed bearing I would assume you make it nice and tight (unlike loose ball).

1. I believe this was answered in the original post. It appears they answer is yes.

2. For the answer to this question we go to a slightly more detailed blog post, he does it a different way so either use his method completely or the one in the original post. But for the answer to this specific question we can just look at step 16.

http://projekto-b.blogspot.com/2008/...-bearings.html

This is a good necro-post.

:)

ETA: Here's what Barnett's has to say:

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...Untitled-7.jpg

the cone won't really affect the bearing but you dont need to crank it down against the bearing.

Thanks for the help, guys! This turned out to be a pretty easy project and I saved 30 bucks in the process (and I have some swank cone wrenches for other projects now). :)

Thanks for stepping in, all. This process is still applicable for a lot of newer track hubs. Don't feel bad about resurrecting a post that (might) help people still.

To answer the most recent questions:

1. Yes, you should remove all nuts for ease of bearing removal.

2. If you're reusing the axle that came with the hub, maybe 20ish lbs at the end of a 6" wrench.

Throw your new bearings in the freezer for a few minutes to make them smaller, easier to press-fit. You can also warm up the hub (gently!).

Sorry to ressurect an old thread but it seemed logical to group it all together in one thread.

So I'm trying to follow this guide except I can't get both inner lock nuts off. I'm able to get one off by tightly holding onto the inner lock nut on the other side, but that just tightens that one and therefore can't get THAT one off as a result. Does anyone have a tip?

EDIT: OK I feel a bit stupid for not having thought of this earlier but after a bit of thinking, I figured it out: if by chance you're in the same rut as I was, first screw in the inner nut on the side that is loose/off. Don't screw it in tight. Leave a little bit of space. Then put in the washer and outer lock nut on the loosened side and tighten the outer nut against the inner nut pretty tightly.

Then you will use that outer nut you just screwed on as leverage to take off the stubborn inner lock nut on the opposite side. So one wrench on the outer nut and the other on the inner nut on the opposite side.

Once that is off, you simply have to undo the inner and outer nuts as shown at the beginning of this thread and since the inner nut was already loosened, it's easier to come off.