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Old 11-02-07, 09:27 PM
  #26  
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the average person probably doesnt need an industrial sewing machine

but we have some above average people here
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Old 11-02-07, 11:20 PM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by Fugazi Dave
Someone should dig up all the old threads on this subject and link to them here.
Voila! Some of my bookmarked threads.

Bag Makers: Tell me about your tools:
https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/221129-bag-makers-tell-me-about-your-tools.html

Ergonomic design project: messenger bags
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=263572

Custom Bag Fabric Suppliers
https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/273097-custom-bag-fabric-suppliers.html

Messenger Bag Templates
https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/273208-messenger-bag-templates.html

DIY Bags: thread tension and needles?
https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/231420-diy-bags-thread-tension-needles.html

DIY Top Tube Pad
https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/187292-diy-top-tube-pad.html

Great advice from SamHouston (Under the Weather)
https://www.bikeforums.net/showthread...4&page=3&pp=30

Homemade Messenger Bag materials
https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/116434-homemade-messenger-bag-materials.html
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Old 11-02-07, 11:23 PM
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Originally Posted by blickblocks
For those of you using a Juki, I haven't the slightest clue why my thread keeps breaking. Last thing I worked on was sewing through 4 layers of cheap 2 inch webbing for a strap modification, and I had to turn the drive manually because as soon as I added some power it would snap. I'm using upholstery thread. Is this no good? Dan what kind of thread did you use on Pegasus? I want to try some better stuff.
Definitely check 2 things about the needle -- first, make sure it's inserted correctly! With industrials you can rotate the needle 360 degrees; there's no flat to keep it inserted perfectly. I've inserted one backwards before and spent long minutes going crazy until I realized my mistake.

If the needle's inserted correctly, try changing it - a dull needle can cause no end of headaches.
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Old 11-03-07, 01:45 AM
  #29  
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Thanks for posting the links, man. These are handy.
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Old 11-03-07, 01:22 PM
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Originally Posted by beatifik
JUKI's are the best machines BAR NONE. all fashion schools use em and the majority of factories/sweatshops i've been to in NYC are all filled with JUKI.

but....

make sure you get one of the older ones that are made in japan. the newer ones are made in china and while they still kick ass, they will die faster than a japanese one. if it's a gross green color it's a pretty sure bet it's a japanese one. if it's white, it's probably chinese.

FYI -- that's not entirely true; only Juki's lower-end machines are being made in China. My DNU-1541-S is still made in Japan (purchased new at the beginning of 2007). It's also the finest piece of machinery I own. When I was shopping around for an industrial walking foot, I briefly considered the Juki 1181, but it *is* made in China. I'm very, very happy with my 1541.

I mean, just look at this oil tank/gearbox:

Last edited by FlippingHades; 11-03-07 at 01:31 PM.
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Old 11-03-07, 01:44 PM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by FlippingHades
That is bad ass.
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https://blicksbags.com/
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Old 11-04-07, 11:08 AM
  #32  
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Straws.. who are you?
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Old 11-04-07, 08:26 PM
  #33  
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my grandmother back home still uses her Singer. it has a platform on the base of the stand you teeter-totter back and forth with your feet to operate the machine.
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Old 11-04-07, 11:10 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by FlippingHades
FYI -- that's not entirely true; only Juki's lower-end machines are being made in China. My DNU-1541-S is still made in Japan (purchased new at the beginning of 2007). It's also the finest piece of machinery I own. When I was shopping around for an industrial walking foot, I briefly considered the Juki 1181, but it *is* made in China. I'm very, very happy with my 1541.

I mean, just look at this oil tank/gearbox:
mine is old but it is pretty rad it has a little oil pump and a big oil pan like a car kinda and it has these windows on the top of the arm that show oil splashing so you know the oil pump is working and not clogged I wil take the cap off one of these days and post a pic of the oil ducting
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Old 11-05-07, 02:55 PM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by dwood
To do it right . . . you need a commercial 'walking foot' machine.

Proud owner of a Pfaff 1245.

DON
You can get a walking foot for non-commercial machines. I have been debating whether I should spend the $40. It definitely would help with straight lines.
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Old 11-05-07, 04:35 PM
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Originally Posted by piratelove
Straws.. who are you?
+1
i was gonna recommend you talk to that fella (piratelove) about his sewing and stuff, hes SOOOOO hands on

and exclusive
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Old 11-05-07, 04:44 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by lvleph
You can get a walking foot for non-commercial machines. I have been debating whether I should spend the $40. It definitely would help with straight lines.
How well do these things work? I've got an old kenmore, which is a good home machine, but a walking foot would be nice.,
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Old 11-05-07, 06:57 PM
  #38  
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Originally Posted by FlippingHades
Definitely check 2 things about the needle -- first, make sure it's inserted correctly! With industrials you can rotate the needle 360 degrees; there's no flat to keep it inserted perfectly. I've inserted one backwards before and spent long minutes going crazy until I realized my mistake.

If the needle's inserted correctly, try changing it - a dull needle can cause no end of headaches.
also if you use size 90 bonded thread it doesn't like going backwards too much on a drop feed machine the thread will wrap itself and come apart I have also had issues with bobbin cases being old and not keeping the thread tight enough

another thing could be that you machine is just dirty when lint and stuff build up underneath the bed plate it can have all kind of mystery issue

now I am on a tangent
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Old 11-05-07, 10:19 PM
  #39  
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I agree with Fugazi Dave. This tread makes me so happy... I want to borrow my girlfriend's sewing machine now and learn something.
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Old 11-06-07, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by fatbat
How well do these things work? I've got an old kenmore, which is a good home machine, but a walking foot would be nice.,
They work pretty well, certainly not the same as a commercial built-in walking foot machine. The add-on ones are mostly used by quilters. I use a newer Kenmore with a walking foot attachment, mostly for sewing quilts though. If you are sewing through multiple layers it definitely helps keep the layers together and is worth the $30 or so. Make sure you get one that will fit the type of shank your machine has.

I agree with those who have said to get an industrial machine if you want to sew multiple layers of canvas or nylon. My main issue with using my home machine to make bags is clearance under the presser foot. I have trouble fitting multiple layers under there.
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Old 11-06-07, 11:11 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by Retem
also if you use size 90 bonded thread it doesn't like going backwards too much on a drop feed machine the thread will wrap itself and come apart I have also had issues with bobbin cases being old and not keeping the thread tight enough

another thing could be that you machine is just dirty when lint and stuff build up underneath the bed plate it can have all kind of mystery issue

now I am on a tangent
True, a dirty machine can not only mess up what you are sewing, but it can also throw off the timing if it goes unchecked for some time. And you don't want to have to redo the timing on your machine. I usually try to clean atleast the surface of my machine every couple of days. Its also a good idea to clean the area around the bobbin case atleast once a week. You can never clean a sewing machine to much.

Having a few machines that get used hard fulltime I have run into every kind of problem that you can ever imagine. I have had to learn how to fix my machines, so if anyone has a problem then I would be glad to offer what assistance i can.
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Old 11-06-07, 12:37 PM
  #42  
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I haven't used used a Singer 306, but I can vouch for the 401. I picked one up off of Craigslist for fifty bucks, and it has been well worth it. So far I've easily sewn through nine layers of coated 1000d cordura. The 401 is one of the last household machines by Singer that is 100% gear driven. I've seen 'em go for between 100 and 200 bucks on ebay depending on the condition/attatchments.
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Old 11-06-07, 05:58 PM
  #43  
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The two most common causes I've encountered with the upper thread shredding or breaking are operator error.

1] As another poster mentioned . . . be sure the needle is inserted the right way. The 'slot' goes on the side away from the bobbin hook.

or

2] The upper thread coming off the spool has somehow become entangled in something [or some part of the machine] causing extra drag on the thread. Or you haven't threaded the machine properly.

I've also used my industrial Pfaff walking foot machine to sew clothing-weight material. Extra care must be used in selecting quality thread, relaxing tensions, and using the proper size needle. I've found too that I need to slow down somewhat to keep from breaking thread. The only serious problem is that if you are working on something delicate . . . the foot pressure, even when minimum, will often mark or damage the work. No wedding dress alterations here! <g>

Bottom line: if you are 'most' interested in medium/heavy projects like bike bags, back packs, etc. you are better off purchasing an industrial machine with a walking foot. It will do clothing better than a 'home type' machine will do bags/packs.

DON
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Old 11-06-07, 07:26 PM
  #44  
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I thought with all this talk about sewing, well, I'd show off my first project! Its completely recycled, everything was taken off something else that was broken. The fabric is actually plastic bags that I melted with an iron. It was tons of fun and my first bag!

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Old 11-06-07, 11:25 PM
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I recently moved into a house that had an old straight stitch industrial consew in the basement that i set up and started using. I've been having problems attaching binding to the seams on my bags and am looking into getting a binder attachment.
https://www.atlaslevy.com/binders.htm
I found these, and I know I either need the 100ls or s64(for thick materials). Does anyone have experience using a binder with several layers of cordura plus vcp?
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Old 11-06-07, 11:26 PM
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so i was in the pfaff store today because i wanted a catalog and because it was next to the mac store.

the lady walked around me to talk to me female friend after i asked her a question.

grrr.
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Old 11-07-07, 11:15 AM
  #47  
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I bought a Singer 239 last night. It worked for a while but now it's making a weird grinding noise and then will stop. When I pull my fabric out there's a bunch of thread bunched up on the bottom of the fabric. I'm going to try a few different bobbin and top thread combinations and get some oil at work tonight. Hopefully that will fix it because I dont have 50 bucks to drop on a tune up.
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Old 11-07-07, 01:45 PM
  #48  
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more than likely your bobbin is jammed and your machine is dirty take a small screw driver and an old tooth brush and take the bed plate off the bobbin case and bobbin out and clean the hook bobbin case and feed dogs even take the feed dogs off of the feed dog arm and make sure there isn't any thread reminants under that flip the machine over and clean it as well

after this clean and oil the machine thru out and see if it solves the issue also the little tension spring on the bobbin case can have stuff trapped under it take it off and clean the bobbincase
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Old 11-07-07, 01:46 PM
  #49  
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Originally Posted by Youngin
I thought with all this talk about sewing, well, I'd show off my first project! Its completely recycled, everything was taken off something else that was broken. The fabric is actually plastic bags that I melted with an iron. It was tons of fun and my first bag!

wow you completed a make project now take this to the "custom" bag thread
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Old 11-07-07, 02:04 PM
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Straws,

With any sewing machine . . . and particularly heavy duty ones . . . it is necessary to hold both threads securely until you've completed a couple of stitches. Holding them down with one finger often isn't enough. I actually wrap a turn or two through my fingers and hold on tight.

What you describe is exactly what will happen [most of the time] if the threads are not held.

DON
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