Phil Hub, EAI Cog, Lockring?
 

I have on my newly built bike a phil rear hub, phil cog and phil lock ring. The lock ring fit pretty nicely when I put them together a few weeks ago. This meaning that most of the threads on the lock ring are mated to the hub. Today I picked up an EAI cog (the black one) in a smaller tooth number as to gear up a little. I swapped out the cog and the lock ring doesn't fit on the hub the same way. It does thread on pretty well, I had to rotate it a few times for it to fit snugly. But there are a few threads of the lock ring showing on the inside, like the EAI cog is thicker.

Anyone have any experience with this? I haven't taken it out yet, I dont want to mess up my new hub.

Both are 1/8th? You might need a spacer to get it to go on right...do you have a picture? If you e-mail sheldon brown he will write you back if you are very concerned about your phil.





a good website http://www.sheldonbrown.com/harris/fixed-sprockets-wide.html

It fits, just that the lockring doesnt screw on to the hub as much as it did when using the Phil cog. Im sure its because the EAI cog is slightly thicker than the Phil, just wanting to make sure. I have the bike together and the chainline is perfect.

Sounds Good, im sure it will be fine, sorry if I didn't say anything helpful. I just know how I feel about my Phils and wanted to commiserate.

i have two EAI cogs on my phils and they work fine. be sure that your cog is screwed on tightly and then install the lockring, i flipped the lockring so the taller part of the ring is up against the cog and it works just fine for me

I can confirm this: the EAI sprocket IS thicker - the shoulder comes outward a bit more than other sprockets. I think you will be fine, though. Perhaps blue locktite both threads.

So, I have an EAI cog, I just got back from the bikeshop where they told me it was too thick, which was the reason I stripped the lockring threads on my hub. Now my wheel is rebuilt, what to do? Should I sell the EAI cogs to get my hands on some phils?

I'm not sure I understand the problem. Did you strip the lockring threads on your old hub because not enough of the lockring was able to engage? My choice for cogs has been surly or dura-ace, if not enough lockring threads are engaging you might look into the dura-ace cogs, the 1/8" variety is recessed on the side so the lockring can thread on a bit more.

2 full threads showing on my lockring with phil/eai/phil combo.

don't get carried away torquing the lockring.

EAI thickness(threads)seem to be the most.

http://www.sheldonbrown.com/chainline.html#chainline1

This was a problem with the first generation of surly cogs as well wasn't it? Or was that because the threads weren't cut well?

I've run EAI on my phil and had some lockring threads hanging over the edge. I sever saw it as a problem, but maybe I should have. I do have some threads left over with DA cogs also though. maybe not as much.

I've had similar problems with surly cogs, and my Dura-Ace now the lockring is barely flush with the end of the thredding on the hub. It's never been a problem before. You need to get them engaged enough to hold though, or else you could probably ruin the hub with them

Yeah, thats the problem. I stripped the threads on my old phil due to not enough lockring threads engageable. It makes me hesitant, because I just dropped another 200 bucks to get my wheel rebuilt with a new phil hub. I think I'm just going to put the EAI ones up for sale on the bay and buy a phil or two in the sizes I want.
oh and Tim, I weigh 220, so this could be more of an issue of a guy my size than someone smaller. not sure how big ya are but that might have somethign to do with me running into problems and other people not.

Somewhere in Sheldon's many excellent articles on fixed gear bikes I seem to remember his advice to never change brands of cogs because the slight variations between the steel threads of the respective manufacturers weaken the threads of aluminum hubs.

Or, I might have read it in an article by Phil Wood.

In any event, pick a cog manufacturer (I think Phil and EAI make the best cogs) and stick with that manufacturer's cogs from day one.

Probably sound advice.

P.S. Thanks to the OP for reopening an old thread.
props.

looks like phil wood cogs have a recess machined in them. does your EAI cog have that too?
http://www.philwood.com/Track%20Cogs.htm

phil wood lockrings are thicker than most so it doesn't surprise me that the lockring might hang off just a bit. FWIW i put the phil wood lockring on backwards on my campy hub so that the bigger side mates up against the cog and yes it hangs off just a bit too.

Phil cogs are also the only ones approved by Phil for their hubs. Marketing ploy? Maybe, but if you're gonna change cogs, you might as well go Phil.

Thanks, I try and make use of the search function.
Thanks for the advice as well guys, I'll probably just stick to phil cogs.