Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

**** this polishing bull****.

Old 12-09-07, 11:24 PM
  #26  
goldenskeletons
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man, i just sifted through a lot of weird crap in this thread to say congratulations on doing such a nice job on those cranks.

the end result of polishing is amazing, but holy damn i wish it didn't take so long to actually accomplish. especially if you don't own a dremel.

anyway, nice work!
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Old 12-10-07, 12:18 AM
  #27  
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anybody have the story on that picture?
the crank/disc thing?
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Old 12-10-07, 12:30 AM
  #28  
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I have to say the carnk brake is a neat idea, i'd never put one of on my bike, but, If someone gave me a bike with one on it i would defend it to the death
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Old 12-10-07, 12:41 AM
  #29  
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So what happens if you break a chain??
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Old 12-10-07, 12:44 AM
  #30  
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'81 Normany high flange before:




And after:




Conclusion: I think polishing is definitely not bull****.
Caveat: I have more disposable time then income.

Also, way to go on the cranks! * high five *
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Old 12-10-07, 12:46 AM
  #31  
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looks ****ing nice.

I'm up in the air about the disc/crank. Your ****ed if you break a chain.
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Old 12-10-07, 12:47 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by el twe View Post


Like so.
Photoshop
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Old 12-10-07, 01:27 AM
  #33  
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Does anyone have any tips for black shot-peened finishes or can nothing be done to make them silver and nice?
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Old 12-10-07, 01:34 AM
  #34  
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What is this thread about actually?
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Old 12-10-07, 01:58 AM
  #35  
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Polishing crank mounted disc brake rotors.
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Old 12-10-07, 02:05 AM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by deathhare View Post
Photoshop
http://velospace.org/node/6301
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Old 12-10-07, 05:37 AM
  #37  
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more photoshop
(btw, i was kidding)

Last edited by deathhare; 12-10-07 at 06:08 AM.
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Old 12-10-07, 05:54 AM
  #38  
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Polishing is legit.. but how long did it actually take you? I did a stem and two seatposts (deeeep scratches) and each took me maybe 2-3 hours which isn't that long. And I got better results than you. If you go down to 150 grit or lower, you'll be able to get those scratches out instead of polish around them. But you'll definitely need to work your way back up
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Old 12-10-07, 06:02 AM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by Boss Moniker View Post
Polishing is legit.. but how long did it actually take you? I did a stem and two seatposts (deeeep scratches) and each took me maybe 2-3 hours which isn't that long. And I got better results than you. If you go down to 150 grit or lower, you'll be able to get those scratches out instead of polish around them. But you'll definitely need to work your way back up
Hey, have you made up your mind for the gaphic on your wheel?
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Old 12-10-07, 06:09 AM
  #40  
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Guy in the southside of pittsburgh builds custom bikes. He builds lotsa wacky and art bikes. It's called thick bikes. Look him up.
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Old 12-10-07, 06:28 AM
  #41  
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It started with gibberish and turned into crank mounted disc brake rotors.
And now i say it will end with more gibberish.
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Old 12-10-07, 07:33 AM
  #42  
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I dont know about where you guys live but i used to take **** all the time to get polished. Find a place that plates and theyll usually also do polishing. Something like a stem would cost nothing. Ive had large intake manifolds polished that were very intricate and rough cast done for 70 bucks.
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Old 12-10-07, 07:35 AM
  #43  
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Originally Posted by Boss Moniker View Post
Polishing is legit.. but how long did it actually take you? I did a stem and two seatposts (deeeep scratches) and each took me maybe 2-3 hours which isn't that long. And I got better results than you. If you go down to 150 grit or lower, you'll be able to get those scratches out instead of polish around them. But you'll definitely need to work your way back up
i'm not so worried about the scratches.
i noticed two little cracks to i decided to file and smooth that little pocket of stress risers so that these cranks last.
then i decided to polish them because i wanted an even finish. i'm not going to keep them super shiny because i don't clean my bike that often.
i'm gonna see if oven cleaner will get the clear anodized coat off the other one so i can bypass a ****load of sanding before i can polish it.
stems are a muther****er for some reason.
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Old 12-10-07, 01:41 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by wroomwroomoops View Post
Hey, have you made up your mind for the gaphic on your wheel?
Eh, I've been really busy recently, but I'm still between my original idea of the pi symbol, the one buy whomever suggested <aero> on one side and </aero> on the other, and putting a bunch of lines that illustrate the windflow across the wheel, starting out parallel at the front, bulging out in the middle, and then returning to parallel at the rear. You know, like diagrams of air resistance and whatnot. Maybe I could do my whole bike like that, or at least the frame.

That was such a fun thread, but most of what you guys suggested were impossible for me to do. Don't worry though, I'll post photos and give credit where it's due once I have the time to work on it.

Originally Posted by piwonka
'm not so worried about the scratches.
i noticed two little cracks to i decided to file and smooth that little pocket of stress risers so that these cranks last.
then i decided to polish them because i wanted an even finish. i'm not going to keep them super shiny because i don't clean my bike that often.
i'm gonna see if oven cleaner will get the clear anodized coat off the other one so i can bypass a ****load of sanding before i can polish it.
stems are a muther****er for some reason.
Kinda looks to me like there isn't an anodized layer on there currently. You would notice a big difference between bare polished aluminum and polished or unpolished ano. I can get a photo if you want, I ruined a pair of Nitto RB-019 drops trying to polish out scratches and it'd look all uneven unless I did the whole thing.

That crank brake is awesome. I want one.
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Old 12-10-07, 01:55 PM
  #45  
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there isn't much of a difference between ano'd aluminum and ano'd aluminum that you polished. i've tried. it gets it clean but that's it. you need to oven cleaner + sandpaper step in there. also, you need STRONG over cleaner. weak stuff just does an awful uneven job, and when you get frustrated and decide to leave your cranks covered in crappy foam in a bucket for an hour, the outcome is rather unattractive.

i've used MAAS polish. i've heard simichrome or mother's is better.
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Old 12-10-07, 02:35 PM
  #46  
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i got all the ano' off, i didn't use oven cleaner but i'm going to on the other crank arm because using sandpaper to sand all that clear off sucks.
once the clear is gone, the mother's polish i have makes the finish polishing about a 5 minute job by hand, that stuff is badass.

there is no clear on the crank arm, it would look hella uneven if there were.
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Old 12-10-07, 02:42 PM
  #47  
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you know, i got a set of pretty beat up cinelli pista bars. if the oven cleaner thing works good i'll polish them too. i sure as hell ain't sanding them down though.
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Old 12-11-07, 12:37 AM
  #48  
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All polishing is is sanding from whatever course grit is needed to remove scratches, from grit to grit progressively finer. The shinier you want, the finer you go. For things like bars and seatposts, a good palm sander would work nicely, or a rotary (Dremel) tool for stems and hubs. I like those sponge-abrasive balls. Finish them off on a buffing wheel, throw on a coat of wax and you're pimpin'. Steel, aluminum, titanium, plastics, wood, even concrete can be polished with the same method.

If it's taking forever to get a good finish, you need to go to a courser grit abrasive, then work your way back up.
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Old 12-11-07, 11:56 AM
  #49  
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Old 12-11-07, 12:28 PM
  #50  
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Originally Posted by Boss Moniker View Post
Eh, I've been really busy recently, but I'm still between my original idea of the pi symbol, the one buy whomever suggested <aero> on one side and </aero> on the other, and putting a bunch of lines that illustrate the windflow across the wheel, starting out parallel at the front, bulging out in the middle, and then returning to parallel at the rear. You know, like diagrams of air resistance and whatnot. Maybe I could do my whole bike like that, or at least the frame.

That was such a fun thread, but most of what you guys suggested were impossible for me to do. Don't worry though, I'll post photos and give credit where it's due once I have the time to work on it.
I'm on the edge of my seat. BTW don't like any of the candidate ideas, but ok...
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