removing stronglight cranks.
 

I am having trouble removing my cranks. it seems like it should be pretty easy. self extracting bolt and whatnot. has anyone had any problems removing these types of cranks? im thinking they are just stuck to the bottom bracket spindles, but i am also wondering if there is a problem with the black rings with the pin holes around the bolt. any info would be awesome.

i tried extracting a stronglight crank once. i stripped it. then resorted to hammering the arm off.

that sounds reassuring.

Your local shop should have the proper tool to remove the crank.

I know stronglight BBs have a specific removal tool, bt I have not heard that about the crank arms.

I have one and haven't had any trouble with it.

Older Stronglight cranks required a 23.35 mm crank puller, available here: http://velo-orange.com/jast23stcrpu.html

like they said, you need a special crank puller to get those off, you also need French-threaded pedals for them. Just so ya know. I had some and sold them and my life is now much better.

self extracting bolt you say? all it should take is an allen wrench. if it doesn't budge get a cheater bar on that.

I ride with a Stronglight crank and like it very much.

The self-extracting bolt loosens and turns several times at first without pulling the crank; and then it develops considerable resistance as it actually starts pulling the crank.

have not had any direct exp w/ stronglite cranks but for any self extracting crank bolt, it is wise to remove the cup w/ 2 spanner holes in it as well as the crank bolt itself. Grease the bolt and the 2-hole cup VERY well (ensuring that there is a good amt of grease between the crank bolt and the cup). Make sure you have a washer in between the cup and the cankbolt. If you don't you will just crush the grease right out and be left w/ metal to metal contact which will bind and increase the chance of you stripping the allen head.

Also, get a decent 8mm crank bolt allen. You need one w/ a short "L" since too long of one will allow the allen to apply force not 90 degrees to the bolt and increase the chance of rounding the bolt out.

HTH

thanks hirohsima

Also, I believe the threads for the caps w/spanner holes on these cranks like the old Campy road cranks are reverse threaded to prevent them from backing out as you back the crank bolts.

Well, if they are self extracting bolts you don't really have much of a option other than reef on the bolt, But if they are not in fact self extracting a 23.5mm crankpuller is likely needed

the latest stronglight tranck cranks (with the black alloy self-extractors) take normal pedals and crank pullers.

that said, the self-extractors suck. before ever mounting them, i disassembled & greased, a la hiroshima's suggestion. tapers greased too. mounted 'em up...

got caught in the rain just a few months later and wanted to pull the BB to dry the frame out. when i tried to remove the cranks, the black alloy part of the self extractor broke...basically, the crank bolt pushed through the face of the alloy collar.

i was able to unscrew the remainder of the collar easily, and then use a standard crank-puller to get the arm off. needless to say, both self-extractors have been removed.