+1:D

try explosion welding. modern marvels, anyone?

yes, risk $9000+ in hospital bills or even your life just because you dont want to spend ~$100 bucks on a real hub. please do it. totally worth the risk.

that's exactly what i did. that cog is going NOWHERE. the brake will help, when i find one. i am not riding it until i get a brake, and the weather is total crap right now anyways.

edit: i am going to save for a proper track hub in the meantime. i have been lacing my own wheels for years, so that's not a problem. my fear is having to buy a new set of spokes because the flange size on the new hub might be different.

Word. You can get a Formula track hub from Harris Cyclery (Formula hub labeled as a house brand) for $45. You can find $45.

get a beach cruiser.

+1 unless your as broke as i am right now. And if you don't have money to have the Wheel laced, Now is as good as time is any to learn, Then get the LBS to Tension the spokes should be good to go cost 60$. but if you Really don't have 60$ do the aforementioned rotafix+loctite

If you really think you cant afford a 45 dollar hub then cancel your internet or phone for a month and use that. or steal some **** from walmart and sell it on ebay

plus the $36/$32 for spokes, unless his current hub happens to have exactly the same flange size as the new one.

I second the suicide hub suggestion. I rotofixed my cog, then cranked on a bb lockring. I didn't use Loctite. It never slipped in the four months I rode that. Then my lovely wife bought me one of those Harris Cyclery hubs (and spokes and rim.. and tire and tube and what else?) for Christmas. As a bonus gift to myself, I built the wheel myself.

But the suicide hub worked great and I'd still be riding it if Christmas hadn't come around.

i love when i hear of people stealing **** from walmart. after seeing that documentary a couple years ago, i've never set foot in one again.

*sigh*

5000 plus hard km on my ghetto road bike... pushing 2000 km on my ghetto winter fixie... there have been no problems whatsoever.

When I did swap the cogs on my road bike (I used industrial strength red loctite) it took three people to remove the cog... one person to hold the front of the bike, another to hold the chain whip, and me turning the wheel for better leverage.

I also had to torch the cog after our initial attempt to remove the cog failed.

If you do ride a "ghetto" conversion you need to do it up right and run a brake / brakes...something every bike needs anyways.

Also remember that Loctite 271 requires approximately 24 hours to cure and achieve 100 % strength.

i think this is the #1 cause of loctite failures: insufficient curing time. as long as you let that cog sit for a day and make sure that both threads are completely free of grease or dirt before putting on the loctite that cog will hold.

Sheldon Brown's site says its OK to not use a lockring (i.e., put a fixed cog on the freewheel side of a flip-flop hub) as long as you have a brake (and don't want to skid, I suppose). No mention of loctite at all.

I used JB weld on my conversion for a while. It was fine.

No, it's only OK if you have TWO brakes.

I DO recommend LocTite for this application.

See: http://sheldonbrown.com/fixed-conver...l#freewheelhub

Sheldon "Redundancy" Brown

thread over.

Agreed. Everyone go home.

i've rota-fix before and that ***** stayed put...then again.. i wasnt trying to skid.
There is a place in the boston area that sells rear wheels for like $30 for a fixed/flip.

+ 1

I should also add that I don't do skids to amuse the peeps (and wear out my tyres) and only do this when it's absolutely needed.

For $7 put a bmx freewheel on it, and be done, forget fixed.

While I have never used JB Weld for this application, I have had much success with other applications.

Sheared the head off a bolt holding down the water neck on an old Ford Aerostar while trying to replace the thermostat. I cut the guts out of the thermostat, creating a restrictor plate, then used JB Weld to hold everything together. Everything held together for another 80,000 miles until the obsolete transmission blew out.

I used JB weld to repair damaged rear dropouts on aluminum beach cruiser frames. The damage had occurred when the brake arm's bolt had broken off, and when the brake was applied, the retaining nut dug into the frame. Removing the rear wheel was a PITA. Then I had to file the dropout back into some kind of shape after the axle deformed it. Then I used the JB Weld to fill in the gouge and reshape the dropout. After letting it set for 24 hours, I would file down the JB Weld into what would be a correct looking shape. Then I cleaned and painted the repair, and you could not tell the difference afterward. You could tourqe down the axle bolt and you'd never know if it was repaired or not.

IMEO, JB Weld would work well enough, if not better then, red loctite.

That's fine if you like riding an ss.

Cost of medical bills > new hub

>>>Canadian<<<

No worries.