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Original Plan for my Drivetrain....worth it?

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Original Plan for my Drivetrain....worth it?

Old 01-29-08, 10:59 AM
  #26  
Fugazi Dave
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Agreed. It's not that hard to get a good chainline, and worth a little time to get it right.
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Old 01-29-08, 11:10 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by andre nickatina View Post
get calipers and do it right.
it's a worthwhile $50. look here
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Old 01-29-08, 11:14 AM
  #28  
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if you can work a straightedge, you can get acceptable results with that method, also.
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Old 01-29-08, 11:34 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by deathhare View Post
That a new thing. The dollar wasnt weak a few years ago against the and they still marked the parts up drastically.
This just means that new NJS parts will just get more expensive as the US government continues to destroy our country.
true. i don't know about the markup. but i do know that prices have been "rising" in the past year, and i'm willing to guess that the weak dollar plays a part in that.

ooh! i too hate the US government! but last night's State of the Union was made much more bearable when we put a fake moustache on the TV screen, and drank every time it lined up with somebody's face. it was damn hilarious.
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Old 01-29-08, 11:39 AM
  #30  
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I had a Specialties TA chainring that was not round, creating a tight spot in the chain during crank rotation.
I tried adjusting but there was always a tight spot.
Switched a DA chainring and the problem was solved. The DA ring is smooth and quiet.
I've never had a problem with Sugino 75 chainrings either...
Just stay away from the Specialties TA.
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Old 01-29-08, 11:45 AM
  #31  
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yeah, i'd say that a good chainring is the best place to spend drivetrain money.

i have a TA Piste chainring that is very round. 130bcd for my stronglight cranks.
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Old 01-29-08, 01:10 PM
  #32  
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speaking of chainrings, does anyone have any experience with these?

https://cgi.ebay.com/FSA-Pro-Road-Cha...QQcmdZViewItem
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Old 01-29-08, 02:28 PM
  #33  
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No, but I can't say enough good things about FSA chainrings.

Originally Posted by queerpunk View Post
...we put a fake moustache on the TV screen, and drank every time it lined up with somebody's face. it was damn hilarious.
That's an AMAZING idea.
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Old 01-29-08, 02:35 PM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Fugazi Dave View Post
No, but I can't say enough good things about FSA chainrings.
Agreed, I had a 42t 110bcd one that I ran for quite awhile and it was awesome, but now I have 130bcd cranks and am looking to go back to FSA, I have a Sugino chainring now but it is wearing down pretty bad
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Old 01-29-08, 02:53 PM
  #35  
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the only gripe i have with my fsa products (carbon pro cranks, pro track 49t) is their branding is horrendous and everywhere. otherwise they're great.
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Old 01-29-08, 02:57 PM
  #36  
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Originally Posted by BRANDUNE View Post
Agreed, I had a 42t 110bcd one that I ran for quite awhile and it was awesome, but now I have 130bcd cranks and am looking to go back to FSA, I have a Sugino chainring now but it is wearing down pretty bad
I have those rings on my road bike. I chewed through the stock rings pretty quickly, but these have been holding up pretty well, even in the slop.

Salsa's single-speed rings are also made from 7075/T6, so you'd get pretty good wear from those as well.
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Old 01-29-08, 03:22 PM
  #37  
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Originally Posted by deathhare View Post
That's totally wrong.
Theyre expensive in the USA because of the huge markup by the retailers in the states. In Japan, If you want good parts, buying NJS parts is about the cheapest way you can go in building your bike. I built my bike out of almost all NJS parts because it would save me money. Of course, i liked and trusted the parts too.
hm, that's interesting
i had no idea.
what are some examples of expensive or over-hyped parts that aren't njs over there?
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Old 01-29-08, 04:15 PM
  #38  
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https://www.takizawa-web.com/shop-tra...rack1-top.html
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Old 01-29-08, 08:04 PM
  #39  
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Originally Posted by frymaster View Post
it's a worthwhile $50. look here
A Starrette ruler is all you need to hit +/- 1mm.
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Old 01-29-08, 08:19 PM
  #40  
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Just go to your LBS and ask to use their calipers. Anyone worth their **** should have a pair.
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Old 01-29-08, 08:57 PM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by frymaster View Post
it's a worthwhile $50. look here
even cheaper here ($31.85): https://www.mdmetric.com/mosale0700.htm
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Old 01-29-08, 10:41 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by queerpunk View Post
Most trackhubs place the cog in a plane located parallel to the centerline of the bike, 42.5 millimeters away. there is some slight variation - Sheldon Brown has a database of measurements. Add the center-to-shoulder measurement of the hub in question to the chainline-from-shoulder measurement of the cog in question. Or, you can take the reasonable shorthand of assuming it's 42.5mm.

You want your chainring to also be 42.5mm away from the centerline of the bike. That will mean your chain runs straight.

So, use a ruler to measure how far your chainring is from the center of your seattube. See? it's easy. If it's more than a few millimeters off, you might want to look into corrective measures - getting a bb with a longer or shorter spindle.

To deal with this chainline issue, track cranksets have a "matching bb" that place them at the right spot for a good chainline.


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Old 01-29-08, 11:21 PM
  #43  
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Mr. Brown - I have a riding buddy who has a puppy named Pixel.

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Old 01-29-08, 11:32 PM
  #44  
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thanks for the help everyone!
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Old 01-30-08, 03:57 AM
  #45  
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I wish I had read this before I dropped $200 at the shop. My new drivetrain is the same as the OP's, with the exception of a Miche chain.
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Old 01-30-08, 07:11 AM
  #46  
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Hahaha, some local shop wants $340 for Sugino 75s. According to that site, they ought to cost $147.
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