![]() |
that is unless its a POS
|
Originally Posted by BRANDUNE
(Post 6107398)
DUPLICOLOR make some good aerosol, I have painted a few bikes and various other things using their stuff. They make a self-etching primer for bare metal wich works great. They make a good array of colors and a few different types of clearcoat (even tinted ones)
they have pretty colors, and lots of primers and sealers that all last about a week after you paint them. seriously, go to an autobody supply shop (yellow pages under "automotive paint" or "color shop") and buy your rattlecan paint from there. please don't waste your hard work sanding and stripping by topping it off with crap paint that will just have to be re-done again in a few weeks. powdercoating is definitely an option, you drop it off, they do all the work, you get a nice durable finish that lacks the clarity and gloss of a professional paint job, but costs about 2/3 less $$$$. typical blast and powdercoat= $75-$125 typical re-paint (blast/seal/surface/paint) one color-NON METALLIC=$175-$450 METALLIC/PEARL COLORS=$350-on up these are actual prices I got from 3 local powdercoaters, and 4 local painters (SF BAY AREA) for a bicycle frame and fork. |
Originally Posted by SuperVillain
(Post 6105050)
c
I've rattle-canned two other frames using the same brand paint, but with primer, wet-sanding, dry weather, etc. and both chip quite easily. For some reason this one just came out way more durable. If you want a truly durable finish, pony up the $100 or so for a powder coating. If you don't have that kind of money or don't mind if its less durable, just lightly scuff up whatever is left of the current paint, knock off the rust and spray it. Be prepared to respray often. That is the best you can do with rattle cans. |
I painted an old Nishiki with some Rustoleum High Performance Enamel. I had a couple little chips, but I suspect those are from my not so great prep work.
Here are the before and after shots. I commuted on the bike for a summer before giving it to a friend, and the paint still looked great. Before: http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...6/100_0308.jpg After: http://i69.photobucket.com/albums/i4...6/100_0312.jpg When I paint my next frame, I will be using the same stuff. |
Well...
Appliance Enamel = Powdercoat in a can.
|
Originally Posted by brownevan
(Post 6108628)
Appliance Enamel = Powdercoat in a can.
powdercoat is powdered epoxy that gets melted on at over 300 degrees,...enamel is low cost paint that dries by evaporation you CAN do a decent job with rattlecans, but if you take my advice, you can do alot better for about the same effort, and a little more green you get what you pay for |
if you can blast it yourself most powdercoaters will do the actual coating for about 50 dollars, sometimes less.
cleaning off a frame isnt hard, use some really gnarly stripping stuff from an auto supply shop and find someone with a sand blaster. |
| All times are GMT -6. The time now is 06:43 AM. |
Copyright © 2026 MH Sub I, LLC dba Internet Brands. All rights reserved. Use of this site indicates your consent to the Terms of Use.