finding a fixed mountain wheel
#1
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finding a fixed mountain wheel
so i'm trying to make an older mountain bike into a fixed gear.
i figure my options are several:
1)buy a disc rear wheel and a bolt on cog.
2)buy a surly wheel/hub
3) buy another track hub (ie nashbar) that can be spaced to 130 or more
the cheapest option is to buy a wheel like https://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/WEMTNDIM/WE8687
that has a thread on freewheel, and then rotafix a cog on there. i like this idea the most and the least, b/c it's cheap, but i won't be running a rear brake if i can help it, b/c the frame is set up for u brakes under the chainstays.
anyone have any advice/insight? it's hard to figure out where to post for ss/fg mountai bke stuff...
i figure my options are several:
1)buy a disc rear wheel and a bolt on cog.
2)buy a surly wheel/hub
3) buy another track hub (ie nashbar) that can be spaced to 130 or more
the cheapest option is to buy a wheel like https://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/WEMTNDIM/WE8687
that has a thread on freewheel, and then rotafix a cog on there. i like this idea the most and the least, b/c it's cheap, but i won't be running a rear brake if i can help it, b/c the frame is set up for u brakes under the chainstays.
anyone have any advice/insight? it's hard to figure out where to post for ss/fg mountai bke stuff...
#2
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#3
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I'd buy a ss disc hub and bolt on a cog (should be reasonably cheap), but then I'm partial to bolt-on.
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I just did this, and went with the last approach. It's working fine -- bottom bracket lockring for extra "safety", a whole bunch of red threadlock, and no problems so far:
https://www.bikeforums.net/showpost.p...ostcount=28178
The tricky part is finding a gearing which makes uphills possible but isn't stupidly spinny on downhills; I'm running 32:18 which does the former, but (very much) not the latter. (see other posts in that thread for why that ratio)
https://www.bikeforums.net/showpost.p...ostcount=28178
The tricky part is finding a gearing which makes uphills possible but isn't stupidly spinny on downhills; I'm running 32:18 which does the former, but (very much) not the latter. (see other posts in that thread for why that ratio)
#5
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Buy the Surly hub and build it to a rhyno lite. It'll be cheap, indestructible, and if you ever do blow up the hub, Surly is really good about backing their products.
#6
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
I use my fixed mtb as a commuter and trail bike... I tried fixed on the singletrack and prefer ss and geared bikes for this.
The ghetto conversion has been holding up under some very rigorous use and I have since removed the U-brake as I just don't need it.
The ghetto conversion has been holding up under some very rigorous use and I have since removed the U-brake as I just don't need it.
#8
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use these wheels + tomicog
https://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/WH707A17-Shimano+Deore+Discrhyno+Lite+Wheelset.aspx
Its kinda hard to beat that combo IMO
https://www.jensonusa.com/store/product/WH707A17-Shimano+Deore+Discrhyno+Lite+Wheelset.aspx
Its kinda hard to beat that combo IMO
#9
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I've done a fair amount of mountain fixed riding. I'd really say to stay away from suicide setups on the trail. The lower gear and thus higher torque of mountain riding really stresses the cog/hub connection, and has even greater potential than on the road for popping off a bb lockring. If you're starting from scratch, go for a bolt on cog with a disc hub. Solid connection, will never unthread or simply break the threads from side pressure.
The bolt on cog is what you'll ultimately want for mountain fixed riding, so might as well go for it now. It will be nominally more expensive at the moment, and way cheaper than buying it later and replacing a cheap wheel.
That said, I've also had good luck with Surly hubs/cogs for offroad riding. Just buy quality stuff and you'll be fine.
The bolt on cog is what you'll ultimately want for mountain fixed riding, so might as well go for it now. It will be nominally more expensive at the moment, and way cheaper than buying it later and replacing a cheap wheel.
That said, I've also had good luck with Surly hubs/cogs for offroad riding. Just buy quality stuff and you'll be fine.
#11
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the cheapest option is to buy a wheel like https://www.bikemannetwork.com/biking/p/WEMTNDIM/WE8687
that has a thread on freewheel, and then rotafix a cog on there. i like this idea the most and the least, b/c it's cheap, but i won't be running a rear brake if i can help it, b/c the frame is set up for u brakes under the chainstays.
anyone have any advice/insight? it's hard to figure out where to post for ss/fg mountai bke stuff...
that has a thread on freewheel, and then rotafix a cog on there. i like this idea the most and the least, b/c it's cheap, but i won't be running a rear brake if i can help it, b/c the frame is set up for u brakes under the chainstays.
anyone have any advice/insight? it's hard to figure out where to post for ss/fg mountai bke stuff...
The wheel in the link won't work. Spacing it to 130 or 135 won't give a straight chainline. The hub is too narrow. I know as I tried it with an older wheel I picked up from a locl coop. Getting the crank in close enough to the b/b for a straight line was impossible.
I have used the fixxer in the past and now have a surly 135 hub on my mtb. If I were to do it over though I would go with the suggestion ibthomps had. Cheaper than getting a surly hub built up.
The only way a frame with the verticle dropouts will work is magic gear or eno hub, which is anything but cheap. Both the frames you posted have horizontal dropouts.
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#12
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I built a wheel last fall using Surly's 135mm flip/flop hub, Surly cog/lockring, and a Velocity Cliffhanger rim. I have ridden it fixed offroad for about 100 miles so far (and 300+ on the freewheel side).
Chris
Chris
#13
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Yup
That is exactly what rear wheel I use, on flipflop Steelhead