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Rumble from back wheel - cause?
Hey guys,
Ok, I just got a new single speed, photo to follow... however, it seems the bike seems to have a low frequency "rumble" whilst pedaling. I'm just wondering what would cause this? There is no rubbing anywhere, and the brakes are nicely aligned now. Could it be to do with the tension in the chain? Or is it a hub related issue? Thanks in advance, Daz. |
Check the hub
Its Alllllllllllllllllllivvvvvvvve!
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Is your wheel on straight? It only Happens when you pedal? Is it just a sound, or is it a severe vibration? More info!!!
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sounds like a chainline problem to me.
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Overtensioned chain. Move your wheel forward a tiny bit.
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If you live in NV, maybe you felt an earthquake.
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Ditto what Blickblocks said, it sounds like a tight spot on the chain.
If your chain is ok check your bearings. |
Originally Posted by Fixedwheelnut
(Post 6207718)
If your chain is ok check your bearings.
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Originally Posted by operator
(Post 6207879)
Check them for what? You've figured out a simple way of objectively quantifying the wear on bearings?
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You can either hold the axle and spin the wheel up and feel through your fingers for any rumbling or tight spots trying to turn the axle in your fingers, or take the chain off and tighten the wheel back in the frame and spin the wheel up and feel or listen on the chain stay with a screwdriver [stethoscope stylee] for the same :)
As Blickblocks said the cones may be too tight if the lock nut comes loose they can cause the inner cone to tighten up on the axle bearings and cause seizure. If you want to do it properly strip the axle out and clean off the grease and look for any pitted marks in the case hardenened surface of the bearings surfaces. If they are sealed bearings well just change them, they are usually cheap enough, replacements for Goldtechs are £12 a pair Failing all that if you're still not sure take it to your local bike shop :) |
Originally Posted by Fixedwheelnut
(Post 6208234)
You can either hold the axle and spin the wheel up and feel through your fingers for any rumbling or tight spots trying to turn the axle in your fingers, or take the chain off and tighten the wheel back in the frame and spin the wheel up and feel or listen on the chain stay with a screwdriver [stethoscope stylee] for the same :)
As Blickblocks said the cones may be too tight if the lock nut comes loose they can cause the inner cone to tighten up on the axle bearings and cause seizure. If you want to do it properly strip the axle out and clean off the grease and look for any pitted marks in the case hardenened surface of the bearings surfaces. If they are sealed bearings well just change them, they are usually cheap enough, replacements for Goldtechs are £12 a pair Failing all that if you're still not sure take it to your local bike shop :) |
Here are a couple of pics that might help a pitted bearing surface where the case hardened surface has started to break up.
http://www.sv650.org/SV_restore/Img_1507.jpg and a typical axle/cone layout. http://www.cyclingnews.com/tech/fix/...iles/hub74.jpg |
Let's not get ahead of ourselves here, the OP Hasn't even gotten back to us on the simplest of determinations yet (chain or hubs?)
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:) sorry I thought you wanted a brief on bearing checking :)
It does sound like a tight chain though, or it is an Izumi chain, I use them and they do run noisier than other chains but they are bulletproof and outlast others, a small price to pay |
Hey guys,
Ok, firstly, thanks for all the helpful suggestions. I loosened the chain and that seems to have gotten rid of the horrible rumble, it still rumbles, but just not as much. The bike had a tensioner on one side, so you could effectively change the alignment of the wheel. But by being on one side, changing the tension of the chain like that messed with the alignment of the wheel, and hence the brakes. Anyway, I took the wheel off and re-seated it a few times and it seems better. How loose should the chain be though? Now if I pedal (with my hand - bike upside down), their is quite a bit of movement. Thanks again, Daz. |
I always pull the chain taught then spin the wheel slowly checking for tight spots and if there is any binding slacken it off slightly until it spins freely.
If the chainwheel and sprocket are not too worn that should do it, if they are worn then check at the slackest spot hopefully you won't be able to move the chain more than 3/4 of an inch. check the fixie FAQs here; FixieFAQs It depends how fast your cadence gets aswell, if you potter around slowly you can get away with a slack chain, around here there are some rolling and steep hills and descending at high rpm means I prefer to keep my chain tight as possible to avoid it geting thrown off. Most of all mind your fingers always check from the outside of the chain don't get your fingers cut off by the sprocket |
Originally Posted by operator
(Post 6207879)
Check them for what? You've figured out a simple way of objectively quantifying the wear on bearings?
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Originally Posted by mander
(Post 6218463)
wtf? WHat were you thinking when you typed this?
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Still don't get it.
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I'm still not clear on one thing: the OP said he just got a new singlespeed. Freewheel or fixed?
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Originally Posted by operator
(Post 6218563)
You're joking right? I quoted the post right in my reply.
Regarding the original question, My money's on the chain making noise due to either alignment or tension which ever likely stemming from a cheap deformed chainring. |
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