Bike Forums - The future of rattlecanning?

Quote:

Originally Posted by lordgold (Post 6211941)

http://gizmodo.com/359531/hammerite-...-sides-at-once

http://www.hammerite.com/uk/products...ter_paint.html

I've been looking on the actual website, and can't find just what types of metal this would work with. It looks like everything they use it on is iron. But hey, I can be hopeful.

Edit: Works on most ferrous metals, and can be applied to aluminum as well with the application of a special primer.

that electrostatic gun is pretty cool, and I have seen hammerite paints before, good stuff for lawn furniture and farm equipment, but I'm not sure I'd paint a marinoni with it. :D

for years I tried to find a way to paint without a compressor, and after a couple of years just gave up and went and got compressors and iwata $500 paint guns, and spent so much money I had to start a motorcycle restoration buisness. (which I am now retired from), but I learned some things along the way:

if you MUST use a rattlecan, there are some things to keep in mind, and some new technologies you should be aware of.

first off, they put all kinds of paint in spray cans, so why not spend an extra few dollars and get GOOD spray paint, eh? you wont find ANY "good" spray paints at hardware stores, or discount auto supply stores (auto zone, kragen etc,..) or at wal-mart or target.

go to an autobody supply house (called "color shops") they are listed in the yellow pages. GOOD spray paint can be found at these locations, and it'll be a shocking $7 to $20 a can for the good stuff.
a) get SEALER: this will be an acid etch primer, with U-POL's primer being the easiest to use (no sanding needed before topcoating)
b)get 2 part GLAZING PUTTY to fill tiny pits, or nicks, or grinder marks (metalglaze by evercoat works the best)
c)get HIGH BUILD PRIMER, thats to fill sanding scratches from grinding, or sanding filler.
d) get the color coat*: you can use a gloss color coat, but for best durability topcoat it with one of the clearcoats listed below.

(*most color shops can put automotive basecoats in spray cans now, and because urethane basecoats aren't catalyzed, they work beautifully in a spray can.)

when it comes to clearcoats you have TWO quality choices, one is reasonable, the other is just ridiculous in price, but you get some of the best clearcoat on the planet in a special one use mixable spray can.

1) U-POL MOISTURE ACTIVATED SPRAY CLEAR:
http://www.levineautoparts.com/upclear1uvre.html

the stuff is simply amazing for a rattlecan clearcoat, it'll take overnight to cure enough to be usable, and after 2 weeks you can sand and buff it like a catalyzed urethane clear! very tough and durable.
CAUTION: both of these clearcoats use some pretty heavy duty solvents in their makeup, and unless you are topcoating a standard basecoat, you should shoot a test panel to test for compatability with whatever basecoat you might be using.

2) R&M 2 COMPONENT URETHANE CLEARCOAT
http://www.ketone.com/rm_aeromax_urethane_clearcoat.php

this is a genuine 2 part urethane clearcoat in a special can that once activated will harden in a couple of hours, and can be sanded and polished the next day.
at $36 a can it's NOT cheap, but if you compare it to renting a compressor, paint gun and all the crap that goes with it. (or BUYING it all), then it's actually a very reasonably priced clearcoat, and easy as falling off the sofa on sunday afternoon to use. GREAT PRODUCT!

things to remember:

most of the "nibs" (crap that lands in the paint and creates a tiny bump) come from YOU, not the surrounding area, as most people believe, so wear a PAINT SUIT, it's not so much to protect you from the paint (which it does), but it contains all your hair, skin cells, dandruff, sanding dust, yada yada, and keeps it OFF the paint job

you can paint outside in the driveway, with the ground wetted down, and then move the parts inside a closed up room (garage, tool shed, basement etc,..) and leave undisturbed for 12 hours. do it at mid morning, or noon when the bugs are fewest, and before afternoon winds stir up dust.
this works GREAT on a hot day where the pieces sit in a hot garage for 12 hours, when you pull that out, it's always a nice suprise to see how good they look! try it, you'll see!

PRACTICE, PRACTICE, PRACTICE painting has a HYOOOGE learning curve, and it always amazes me that people with no idea of how to paint something NEVER practice on a steel plate, or the garage fridge, or a toolbox, they ALWAYS seem to try and "learn" on the thing they are trying to paint, like their vintage colnago, or RB-1 or something.

please don't do that, because I haven't written a "how to fix yer fuxored painting attempt" yet, and would rather not have to :D

you can use cheap paints and clearcoats to practice with, because all the better quality stuff is easier to use, covers better, builds thicker etc,..., so once you "learn" on the cheapo, when switching to the better paint to shoot your bike, you shouldn't have any trouble

shoot em if ya got em