Opinion wanted on frame.
First of all guys just wondering if anyone can identify this frame. Second, the picture of the bb, can the rust be removed? If so, what is the best method of doing so.
I was looking for a frame to use until i can buy my track bike. Can't necessarly afford it right now, and i'm afraid that my target conversion is gonna die (bb threads are bad), so just a temporary thing... i Thanks for the help in advance. http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/7528/bbwl3.th.jpg http://img512.imageshack.us/img512/1156/f1ti7.th.jpg http://img301.imageshack.us/img301/7321/f2wo8.th.jpg |
you converted a target bike?
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thats cross, isnt it?
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yes i have good sir. my concern is that they wear out quickly and i don't feel like replacing them often. I know the threads aren't bad, just the rust. i was just wondering if there was a good way to remove the rust.
and yes converted a target bike, use the triple crank that it came with and it is working great. i actually love the frame, minus the ugly welds. It is extremely light, and a bit small for me so the seat is up like crazy, but i still love it... http://img145.imageshack.us/img145/4...0050mp2.th.jpg Enjoy |
OMFG holy popups!!!! dont click those images.
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yea i got 100 earlier from a post by sp00ki.
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my apologies ... is there a better way to host the pictures. i'm using image shack. btw there are no pop ups for me when i click or go to the website.
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i usually just use the pic URL and put it in here-----> [IMG]link[ / IMG] but without the spaces in the second bracket
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Originally Posted by shanky
(Post 6295871)
my apologies ... is there a better way to host the pictures. i'm using image shack. btw there are no pop ups for me when i click or go to the website.
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Now, back to the news...
Schwinn touring bike, interesting piece. Lots of people will say don't convert it because touring bikes are so rare now, but none of them will want to actually buy it and tour on it. Would make a very nice all weather bike, good fender/tire clearance etc... You could just wire brush the rust and then grease the BB well when you install it, it's really not that bad. Otherwise, a shop would chase it out for $30 or so and leave it nice and clean. |
A small Wirebrush is the way to go.Either round (home depot plumbing section ) or one for welds (tool section at the welders).Don't get the brass ones,they're to soft.
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It says what model it is right on the head badge. It is a Mesa Runner. Nothing special. It looks like (from a quick search) it is one of those schwinns that changed forms year after year. touring one year, ATB the next, etc. Hi tensile steel. Good bike for converting to a SS if you ask me.
The wire brush and grease sounds good. Also, something I do with rusty BB shells is put a light weight lubricant on them first (like WD-40) and then slowly turn in steel BB cubs that your not going to use anymore. I keep some with my tools just for this purpose. after it is threading in nice and smooth, wash out (yes, wash. you don't want to mix the WD-40 with grease) the shell and you'll be ready for grease and your new BB. Have fun! by the way, that is a interesting bike you have there. Use the threadless BB as shown above if you want to fix it. If you put them in correctly, you won't have to worry about it. You'll save yourself some weight if you ditch the triple chainring as well. |
Brush it and Grease it up
I was thinking the other day that a department store bike wouldn't be half bad if you stripped off all the garbage components and made it a SS or FG. Looks nice aside from the chainrings. |
Tradtimbo had the best advice, well the only advice but none-the-less.
Is it a 27X1 1/4 or is it 26"? If it's an MTB good chance those canti posts won't line up to a larger rim. You'd be able to fit the 700c/27" in the frame, just no brakes, unless you use those rad Mavic brake extenders. I didn't see if you'd already built the frame up as a single yet, but if not, measure those rear drop-outs before you invest on a rear hub. Good luck, you found yourself a *****in' frame! |
Originally Posted by shanky
(Post 6295646)
First of all guys just wondering if anyone can identify this frame. Second, the picture of the bb, can the rust be removed? If so, what is the best method of doing so?
I was looking for a frame to use until i can buy my track bike. Can't necessarly afford it right now, and i'm afraid that my target conversion is gonna die (bb threads are bad), so just a temporary thing... i Thanks for the help in advance. try METAL PREP (os-phos) it's a phosphoric acid concentrate sold at many hardware stores to prep metal for painting. mix it up, use a wire brush and scrub the heck out of it, rinse, repeat,....about 3 times for rust that inolved, and then leave it wet with the metal prep solution on the last time. when it dries, it will leave a white powdery residue (zinc phosphate), leave it on, thats normal, then assemble the BB with plenty of grease coating all the internal surfaces, or use FRAME SAVER (google it) to help prevent any further rust. be super careful around the threads, BB's have fairly fine threads, and it doesn't take much rust to completely destroy them, so use caution when wire brushing, and remember, that you might not be able to get the BB back in after cleaning it up, IF the rust compromised the thread area. you can also use MURIATIC ACID (pool cleaning supply), to remove BAD rust, it's kind of cool when you use it because it'll remove "molten lava" rust, in less than a minute, right before your eyes, leaving a clean surface, but it also will eat the metal if you leave it on, so you MUST rinse RIDICULOUSLY well with water/baking soda mix, or you run the chance of thinning the metal, and those are pretty thin threads in a BB, so don't use muriatic acid on it(which is why I don't recommend using it except in SEVERE cases, or for outer frame surfaces) |
That is a MTB. So, 26" wheels for you.
I hate to admit it, but that Target bike looks better than I would have guessed. Better than the pig of a MTB you are considering. What makes you think the BB threads are bad? jim |
^^^^
the bb thread is in at an angle, its not major, but i can see the lock ring not completely going on. It hasn't been a big issue, but i fear the cranks falling off. i will most likely get a set of cranks and put them on my target frame, and keep looking for another frame. |
Thank you for all the help guys. Actually the pictures that you see are of a frame that a person, who mass delievers bike to our university, offered me. I asked him for pictures of a road frame that was 58 -60 and thats what they sent me. I apologize i am very much learning about bikes as i go along, and am unable to differentiate mtb frames from road frames from the pictures. What do you look for to distinguish a mtb from a road frame?
As for the target bike, i must say i find the frame to be very comfortable. From all the bad review i had read about target bikes, it turned out to be a decent frame (to convert). The parts on it were clearly crap, but it was a good cheap frame to convert. I'm 6'1 and the frame is 53 but i compensate that by placing the seat super high and its worked out just fine. and thanks mander for putting up the picture |
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