Bike Forums - 1/8" vs. 3/32" for fixed applications

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- - 1/8" vs. 3/32" for fixed applications (https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/395222-1-8-vs-3-32-fixed-applications.html)

1/8" vs. 3/32" for fixed applications

What do you think is better for a fixed gear, 1/8" chains or 3/32", in terms of noise and function?

3/32" is lighter, cheaper and more readily available (although BMX chains are 1/8", and are pretty cheap and common). 1/8" is a relic from a by-gone era that still happens to be a standard for track racing.

Go with 3/32".

Eh... I say neither.

If you have all 1/8" components then 1/8" is better. If you have all 3/32" components then 3/32" is better.

I mean... I suppose 1/8" is "stronger" but I'd be surprised if that many people were actually busting properly setup 3/32" chains.

Quote:

Originally Posted by EivlEvo (Post 6300077)

Eh... I say neither.

Neither? So how do you pedal?

i have a 3/32 on my conversion, only because i bought a cog with hopes of using my old cranks, chainring, and chain. It turned out to not matter, since i ended up replacing everything anyway, but it works just fine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by danimal4lovin (Post 6300057)

What do you think is better for a fixed gear, 1/8" chains or 3/32", in terms of noise and function?

Noise wise, go 3/32. There's almost no reason to go 1/8 except for longevity of drivetrain. It also weighs more. If you have a track crank you might not even have a choice.

has anyone ever heard of either size chain breaking or failing on a fixed?

I run 1/8 chain only because I'm always running a mix of 3/32 & 1/8 cogs and rings on different bikes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by reptar douglass (Post 6300276)

has anyone ever heard of either size chain breaking or failing on a fixed?

Chains break or fail all the time, but it being fixed or not is irrelevant.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bonechilling (Post 6300114)

Neither? So how do you pedal?

HAHAHAHA! I meant neither is better.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bonechilling (Post 6300308)

Chains break or fail all the time, but it being fixed or not is irrelevant.

it serves relevant when braking is involved.
i guess to be more specific i'm just curious if anyone has rode fixed, had a chain break on them, and now swears by hand brakes.

Quote:

Originally Posted by reptar douglass (Post 6300334)

it serves relevant when braking is involved.
i guess to be more specific i'm just curious if anyone has rode fixed, had a chain break on them, and now swears by hand brakes.

I haven't... but Im trying REALLY hard to get that to happen.

Quote:

Originally Posted by reptar douglass (Post 6300334)

it serves relevant when braking is involved.
i guess to be more specific i'm just curious if anyone has rode fixed, had a chain break on them, and now swears by hand brakes.

Way to miss the point. He means that whether or not a chain is being used in a geared application or a no-gear application has no bearing on chain failure. As usual chain failure is caused by several things.

1) installation error
2) extreme wear
3) external damage
4) manufacturing defect

1 and 2 is by far the most comomn.

If you suck at wrenching or really don't want to take the chance then run a brake, or be 100% vigilant everywhere, all the time.

Quote:

Originally Posted by operator (Post 6300431)

I had a 3 week old chain break (dont remember brand or size) going down a long steep hill in traffic! I was efing shocked, I chalk it up to number 4 ^. I run a break so there was no panic.

I use 1/8 because 1/8 single speed chains can be had at any bike shop for 10 bucks. Also, I can use either the 1/8 or 3/32 cogs and chain rings that I have been accumulating. I'm not sure if you can use a 3/32 chain with a 1/8 cog.

Quote:

Originally Posted by shasta (Post 6300859)

I'm not sure if you can use a 3/32 chain with a 1/8 cog.

You can't. It's smart to buy 3/32" components, because they're cheap and common, and run them with a 1/8" BMX chains, for the same reason. Also, 3/32" components with a 1/8" chain allows you a little more wiggle room if you have an imperfect chainline.

1/8 chain, whatever ring/cog.

Quote:

Originally Posted by shasta (Post 6300859)

I use 1/8 because 1/8 single speed chains can be had at any bike shop for 10 bucks.

3/32 chains can also be had at any bike shop for $10.

Its sort of a pain in the ass to get a 3/32 single speed chain and I have never liked the idea that the 8 speed chains are designed to derail.

Quote:

Originally Posted by shasta (Post 6303150)

Its sort of a pain in the ass to get a 3/32 single speed chain and I have never liked the idea that the 8 speed chains are designed to derail.

Whoa way to be misinformed. A 3/32 single speed chain is functionally no different than ones labelled for 7, 8, 9 or 10 speed. Road chains that are designed to be shifted only differ in that they have greater strength when they are flexed sideways due to shifting loads - this makes it stronger not weaker. And it does not mean that they "derail" more because of this, which is what I think your concern is.

There's no reason to go and specifically look for a "single-speed" specific chain when 7/8 speed "road" chains do the same job but better and are widely available.

Quote:

Originally Posted by operator (Post 6302967)

3/32 chains can also be had at any bike shop for $10.

Not in my experience. They're usually like $20+, compared to $7-$10 for a KMC BMX chain.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bonechilling (Post 6303178)

Not in my experience. They're usually like $20+, compared to $7-$10 for a KMC BMX chain.

Time to frequent better, well stocked shops.