Bike Forums - fixed hubs for vertical dropouts

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fixed hubs for vertical dropouts

wow that's interesting. what's teh price on it?

^^priceless - DIY out of LBS dumpster: cutouts of carbon forks' steerers or (crappy) titanium risers, except for the axles ($20 for 2 of different lenghts, made by Maciek of Mack hubs fame) and, of course, hubs (Bloodlines Reborn and Soul-Kozak Edge in my case)

very cool, but i can't figure it out for the life of me.
works like an eno hub, right?

yea, it looks like a very cheap alternative
good work...is it reliable?

Quote:

Originally Posted by dervish (Post 6712269)

yea, it looks like a very cheap alternative
good work...is it reliable?

When using this hub, I have broken one frame at the seat cluster in a crash without losing chain tension. Another hub survived bad chain throw - the kind when the chain wounds upon itself on a cog while catching pedal. All the damage that happened was some scratches on the carbon spacer. I have been using pictured bloodlines reborn hub on my rain / off road/ winter commuter (actually commuting in the winter) since May 2007 - still going strong. I guess, I have overbuilt it if anything.

That looks great!

Did you have the axles machined for you or are they commercially available? Where can someone get them? Mackhubs.com has nothing.

Quote:

Originally Posted by huerro (Post 6712608)

That looks great!

Did you have the axles machined for you or are they commercially available? Where can someone get them? Mackhubs.com has nothing.

I had the axles machined, heat treated and anodized for me - they are just like the axles for Mack hubs, only made to my specs.

Nice one, I was sketching out something like this last week, great to see it would actually work. How do you rotate the hub in order to tension the rim, a nice addition would be some flats that you could get a 15mm spanner on to rotate the hub with some leverage when tensioning the chain.

Or you could save a lot of time and money and just file down the front/back of the vertical drop out and use a half link. Takes 10 min and you only need to buy a half link( you might not even need that).

Thanks for posting this vobopl, I had been rather intrigued by your comment in the other thread.

A few questions, I notice you're using a snap on cog that has been drilled to fit your disk mount. Did you have any difficulty with the hardened metal? If so, how did you deal with it? also, how does using your altered cogs compare to the ones from that online shop "london fixie" in cost and durability? (have you bothered?)

Your axles are really thick, did you have to special order your cartridge bearings?
you mentioned a spacer in one of the pictures, I don't quite see it, is that spanning the width of the axle?
Also, you made a note of your spacers extending beyond the axle, was there a particular reason for that? compression?

whew. I think that's about it.

Nice work! :beer:

Quote:

Originally Posted by JoshL, JBD, VT tallbike

How do you rotate the hub in order to tension the chain, a nice addition would be some flats that you could get a 15mm spanner on..
I'd been thinking about it but I wasn't sure about the integrity of the spacers when I cut them out. In practice, this is not a problem: I press at the tire against the seat tube to get the tension right. Slightly uncomfortable when you rock fenders but still not a problem.
Did you have any difficulty with the hardened metal?
In fact, the cheap cogs from singulators, like on the winter bike are very hard. Takes a bench drill and good bits I used smaller diameter bits and improved the holes with dremmel.
how does using your altered cogs compare to the ones from that online shop ?
I got some ordered -will know soon.
Your axles are really thick, did you have to special order your cartridge bearings?
No, I have chosen front hubs for 20mm axles and have 20mm axles made.
you mentioned a spacer ...
The spacers, pieces of pipe of 20mm internal diameter fitting on the 20mm axle, serrated on one side hold bearings in place against the inner side of the dropout when you screw in the bolts to the axle. I have 4 sets of these, matching 2 different hubs and 2 axle widths. You can see the carbon/steel ones on the top view and 2 titanium sets in the parts view in the picasa gallery - they work like in the head set assembly, the total width of spacers, bearings and internal spacer is .3mm bigger than the axle length. I didn't want them to bottom out.
Or you could save a lot of time and money and just file down the front/back of the vertical drop out and use a half link.
I have 4 bikes to file down, some of them are classics I do not want to mess with. Also, no filing down will get me 1/2 inch of adjustment or adapting to different widths, which I got my way. BTW, I can contol the steering in a way using top- down adjustment - I need that swapping forks/tires on my mtb frame.

Thanks.

Thanks for all the answers!

I mentioned the cog because i seem to recall someone on this board having a machinist friend breaking carbide bits trying to drill cogs from a standard road cassette. --is it possible road cassettes are even harder than single cogs?

have you thought of using a double disk front hub from a downhill bike for a flipflop?

keep us updated on how the premade cogs compare