the_don

As I said, I have tried the chainring bolts, they are as tight as I can make them, tomorrow morning I will try to loosen the wheel a little and see what that does to it. It has horizontal dropouts, so should be easy enough to adjust.

Thanks.

jasonmansey

theres a few things in this thread that i find confusing.

1) how are you dudes over tensioning. sometimes i dont get my **** tight enough, or it loosens made quick.
2) track stands are harder with a loose chain, is this bizzaro land?

andrewssohip

well you can't just tighten them, you need to tighten them in a pattern similar to tuning a drum. Go around and skip every other bolt if i remember correctly, i haven't done it in ages. This is so that they get tightened evenly.

jpdesjar

I always learn something new here. The tightening of the bolts makes sense.
I am riding the sugino rd crank and chainring and it may just be a bit out of round but it is hardly noticeable.

kringle

When tightening an object with fasteners 360 degrees around, you should use the star method.
https://z.about.com/d/autorepair/1/0/...ch-pattern.gif

andrewssohip

which is also, every other one...haha

fetch

p.s. dont use your fingers.


use a wrench to push off your chain while testing it

kringle

You're right for bike applications, since most cranks are 3-5 bolts.

The star pattern is universal.

ralphm2k

I have an upside down pentagram.

the_don

I know about the star tightening method, its the same as for tightening disc brakes. What i meant was I can't tighten the chainring bolts any because they are already tight.
I noticed that the rear wheel is a little unstraight. Just 1-2mm off center at the brake caliper. Can this cause problems like creaking in the drive train?

idiq

Which direction is it off? Are you using chain-tensioners? If the wheel is pulling to the drive side 1-2mm, then that might cause creaking from the frame itself. If it's to the left, then probably not, as the drive side isn't "overtight" rather, it's actually further forward than the non-drive side.

mark9950

It effrects the front crank bearings and rear bearings,you feel more resistance when pedaling as compared to no chain.

pyze-guy

Creaking in a drivetrain can be caused by lots of different things. Other areas to check are bottom bracket, seatpost collar is tight, saddle is not loose, fork/stem/bar setup, crank arm tight on the b/b, pedel bearings are good.

mark9950

I dont know what kinds of chains that you have or how long before you replace it,but I 250 and my chains are steel and I never snapped a chain.

the_don

I have a 3 month old langster, I think that it could be the wheel being not quite straight. It was fine before when set in the fixed position.

Mark, please, u really don't know what u are talking about. It the chain is too tight riding fixed it can put a lot of pressure on it.

the_don

thanks to everyone offering advice, I will let u know how it goes!

andrewssohip

the don- make sure the wheel is straight in the seatstays and track ends, also loosen the chainring bolts and retighten them, unless you put the chainring on they might be uneven, but first try recentering the wheel.

Jabba Degrassi

Somehow I doubt your experience on a bargain basement wal-mart cruiser translate well to the world of fg.

raster

agreed. I'm a lot less twitchy with a slack chain, and I like to stand in that floating spot right between engaging forwards or backwards and see how long I can hold it. Passes time at lights.

RichPugh

IMHO, This is too loose... and it has gotta be damn cold there!

thegoodfight

when ur a dood with a camel toe. wow...that's a funny ass pic when ur drunk

Ty Ty

I have to congratulate the OP for such a poignant title. Very Classy.