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Raleigh Rush Hour or KHS Flite 100

Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

Raleigh Rush Hour or KHS Flite 100

Old 05-29-08, 06:49 PM
  #1  
taylor138
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Raleigh Rush Hour or KHS Flite 100

Before anyone tells me, I've searched extensively about these two bikes, but I have a few more quesitons as i'm about to purchase one of these very soon. Both are the same price.

How do the frames compare? I tested an oversized rush hour, and I found the handling pretty tight and it felt nimble. How does the KHS compare? (Weight, stiffness, geometry, etc.)

It seems like the Raleigh is equipped with better components. Is this true?

As far as upgradability goes, are these good platorms to begin with? Which would be better?

Lastly, i'll be using this mostly as a commuter, and as my sole mode of transportation. Which would fit this purpose better?

Overall, I just want to know what the best bike for the money would be. Any other information would be greatly appreciated.
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Old 05-29-08, 07:14 PM
  #2  
powerband
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Do a search.

Ok, just kidding. I have the Rush Hour and absolutely love it for commuting. The frame is great, but most of the components will eventually be upgraded. I apply a lot of power for interval sprints on my commute, and on weekends I take the bike up to the hills (Santa Cruz Mountains) for sprints. The rear hub lasted only two weeks before it was stripped to hell. But, from all the reading I've done here about the Rush Hour, I fully expected the rear hub to go. I ordered a new wheelset, a Dura Ace cog and a Dura Ace locking ring. Both the Dura Ace cog (15t) and locking ring costed me a little over $30. The wheelset are the black Formula/Weinmann from: http://sheldonbrown.com/harris/wheels1.html .

I can give you only my feedback on the Rush Hour. Haven't ridden the Flite.
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Old 05-29-08, 11:12 PM
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What size are you? The KHS frame is the same as the Mercier Kilo TT, and they only get track-ish angles at 57cm and above. IIRC, the KHS in 53cm and 50cm have something like 72/73 seat & headtube angles. I bought the Rush Hour since it's a bit steeper in 53cm size. Will I really appreciate the difference? Maybe not, but I felt like having something new.

The Rush Hour is nice as a commuter as it comes with two brakes and proper drop bars, in case you want to flip it to the freewheel side for long distances. The KHS does have the benefit of having rack and fender mounts though. However, both are less than ideal as they have a maximum tire clearance of 28mm. Your needs for commuting might be different though. If you really want a fixed for commuting, check out the Surly Steamroller or Crosscheck, or the Raleigh One-Way. They have good clearance for tires and more relaxed geometry.
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Old 05-29-08, 11:23 PM
  #4  
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imthewalrus, do you think that the aftermarket Dura Ace lock ring and Surely cog will prevent stripping of the rear hub better than the stock ones did? Also, do you know what brands are the stock lock ring and cog on the Rush Hour?

The reason I ask is because today I purchased a Dura Ace lock ring and cog, and I wonder if I will have better luck with rear hub longevity (I'm rather tough with my pedaling and braking).
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Old 05-29-08, 11:53 PM
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imthewalrus
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Well, I stripped the hub the first time because I didn't have the proper tools to secure the cog. It was loose when I first got it and after having it slip under a heavy skid, I rotafixed it and pounded the lockring on with a screwdriver and random heavy object. I have a feeling I screwed up the threads pretty hardcore when it first slipped, since everything wasn't secured completely. However, when I got my new wheelset, I invested in a good cog and lockring and the proper tools just as a precaution, since buying a new hub/wheel would cost more.

Having compared the stock components, which are just cheap stamped sheet metal, to properly machined units, I can see why the stamped components are potentially the causes for a stripped hub. The stamped cog isn't threaded it's entire width, due to the manufacturing process. This reduces the amount that the cog engages the hub. Also, since the cog is stamped, it as a bit of a radius to its surface, which lowers the amount of surface contact it has with the ring. Theoretically, that shouldn't make a difference, as friction is dependent on normal force, not contact area. However, I believe there's a bit of "cold welding" of sorts going on between the cog and lockring, which is where the machined units shine.

All of that said, I believe the main culprit of stripped hubs is lack of proper tools and tightening. But hubs are too expensive to risk it. The lockring tool is probably the most important thing you can buy to keep your hub alive. My Surly/Shimano combo has survived some intense skids (high speed & nearly seated). Besides, those 17t surly cogs have all those holes drilled in it, which is super cool. And my Dura-Ace lockring cost me only $9.00 and is NJS approved, which adds .5 cool points to my bike. And that's pretty important.
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Old 05-30-08, 01:51 AM
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Thanks for the responses. I'd be getting the 50cm model, so the Raleigh would win here for me as I would prefer the sharper handling bike. I noticed the seat and headtube angels were the same as the 57cm i tested so it should handle similarly if not better since the bike will actually fit me. Don't need the fender mounts so that pretty much settles it for me.

Is there anything I should tell the LBS regarding the cog? I really don't have the knowledge to work on it myself at this point.
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Old 05-30-08, 03:01 AM
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Ridden both, the raleigh handles more responsively. I imagine it has something to do with the straight carbon fork as opposed to the raked fork of the kilo. If i were in your position i would buy the rush hour, you're getting better components for your dough. Also, if you get hit by a car while not on your bike...breaking both your legs...and you decide to sell it...you can mark up the price because it barspinz with 700s.
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Old 05-30-08, 03:33 AM
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I'm not entirely sure that you shouldn't get a 55...i mean don't rule it out just yet i imagine the 50 would be exceedingly small.
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Old 05-30-08, 06:54 AM
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Originally Posted by TurntheScrew View Post
Ridden both, the raleigh handles more responsively. I imagine it has something to do with the straight carbon fork as opposed to the raked fork of the kilo. If i were in your position i would buy the rush hour, you're getting better components for your dough. Also, if you get hit by a car while not on your bike...breaking both your legs...and you decide to sell it...you can mark up the price because it barspinz with 700s.

Carbon fork? Are you comparing the Pro?
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Old 05-30-08, 07:06 AM
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Originally Posted by taylor138 View Post

Is there anything I should tell the LBS regarding the cog? I really don't have the knowledge to work on it myself at this point.
Have them take the cog off. grease it and put it back on Tight. A lot of shops that don't deal with fixed setups on a regular basis don't put the cog/lockring on tight enough. Have 'em check that for you and you should be good to go.
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Old 05-30-08, 09:09 AM
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Originally Posted by imthewalrus View Post
If you really want a fixed for commuting, check out the Surly Steamroller or Crosscheck, or the Raleigh One-Way. They have good clearance for tires and more relaxed geometry.
Fatties Fit Fine!!!
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