dont sink to the deep V!
 

i know im not the first one to point this out, but i'd love some feedback on the topic :)


http://tfrascone.net/myphotos/g2data...3/DSC_8242.jpg

This bike was posted on SSFG photos, page 1256, a beautiful looking bike in my opinion, but one that would turn into 'every other bike' if one were to pop a set of Deep V's on its highness.

What would you suggest in terms of a new set of rims?

disclaimer: i am in no way flaming the owner, as i stated before it is beautiful and i really admire the stem/bars combo and the clean silver and white scheme.

Sun CR-18s - strong, low profile box-section, bright silver. Very classy and practical. I love box-section rims, especially dark gray anodized Mavics.

Did that guy move his saddle and then snap another photo?

Wait, I'm thinking of this one:
http://tfrascone.net/myphotos/g2data...8/DSC_7561.jpg

funnily enough, on the same page of the original thread.

Weinman DP-18's

mavic ellipses :p

DT Swiss makes a deep rim, most people use it in cyclocross that I've seen. It's also 30mm deep, same as the Velocity Deep V's, but the rim itself is much nicer and stronger. Miche makes a relatively inexpensive wheelset now with deep rims laced to (surprise) Miche hubs, it's called the Pistard.

I went with CXP33's, thinking the "33" referred to how deep the rim was, so the CXP22's were "22mm" deep - apparently that would make too much sense for Mavic though, and that's not how their numbering works.

I also would recommend the A/C Track wheels if you can find them cheap.

Aww man, and here I was using that exact phrase to make fun of italian tarck *******.

those are the same bike in the first two posts lol

Which rims are those?

+1.

My plan is to ditch my heavy and ostentatious [lime green] deep Vs and lace my Suzues to some super cheap CR-18s, at least until I can find a NOS pair of Mavic MA-2s!

I'm surprised there are very few polished silver box rims on the market. They make nearly any bike look grown and sexy.

Originally I thought they were Bontrager Select's, but they actually appear to be Alex Rims - possibly off of a Jamis Sputnik.

Funny enough, I saw a guy with MA-2's today on a Mongoose cyclocross bike. Admittedly, they are pretty sexy. Even on that Mongoose.

Deep v's seem to be the bestest for the street. Shorter spokes, stronger wheel AND with such a thick rim they must be strong. Also they should stay true longer, with larger amounts of abuse.

i think any non-deep V will get untrued from street riding. Flame me or flag me as ignorant, but that's what i think

That's not a logical conclusion. For one, they're not a 'stronger' wheel. Second, just by having a thick rim doesn't mean you're stronger. I can build a ship out of thick balsa wood, and see how well it will survive in a storm. Present some actual facts about the Deep-V and perhaps I'll reconsider your argument.

This is ridiculous. I'm not going to attack you personally for saying this, but the statement itself. Deep-V's are not even straight out of the box 95% of the time. The rim itself is not structurally strong (there are no additional pockets / walls to divide the rim). A lot of the 'trueness' of a rim depends on spoke tension as well. So, you could have a Deep-V with a very bad lacing / build that gets obliterated on the street, and one just the opposite, which brings your statement to a moot point.

I am told (not sure if it is true) that A/C Mountain wheels are frozen (to shrink the rim) then built by a machine to increase the tension. I know someone with their mountain wheels that haven't had to true them in the 3 years they've owned them - and they do heavy trail riding weekly. It just so happens that A/C also makes a track wheel. If what is true for the mountain wheels are true for the track wheels, it seems that your point also falls apart.

I'm not trying to attack anyone here, just please make sound points that you can actually justify.

Edit:
I just want to clarify my feelings on the Deep-V: I know it sounds like I'm 100% against the Deep-V rim, and this is not the case. Rather, I am easily frustrated when people make knowledge claims on things that are simply not true. I do think the Deep-V is a decent rim if you want a cheap and deep rim. I do not think it is the end-all of rims, by a very very long shot. I'll be the first to admit, it looks decent and non-machined rims make the rim look deeper then it really is, which I think also adds to the looks. I'm perfectly ok with the aesthetics of the Deep-V, I'm just not willing to hype it to the level that others are.

velocity aero

Hahaha, I hope Velocity is paying your ass.

I hate to get into this, but what makes you think that bike is "beautiful looking?"

at idiq: deep-vs make for stronger wheels because the spokes are shorter. and yes, they are double walled, although not eyeleted. mountain wheels also have shorter spokes than a 700c box rim.

aesthetically, i would totally put deep-vs on this bike. the white/silver components need some visual weight. purple or black or something. this is no classic bike.

I didn't think about the shorter spokes. I can see where spoke length would play a role in the strength of the wheel overall (one can argue for spoke count here as well).

I however would say, 'deep rims can make for stronger wheels because the spokes are shorter', rather than strictly deep-vs. There are plenty of options out there with a 30mm rim that are inherently stronger.

If rim strength relied on spoke length only, one could make the argument that a HF, low-profile wheel is just as strong as a LF, Deep-V (high-profile wheel) when this may or may not be the case. That is, imagine a scenario where a 'short' spoke-length is the same on a different combination of rims/hubs. I think it becomes quite clear then, that strength might not chiefly rely on the spoke length, but a combination of the structure of the rim as well as spoke length. This would include I-beams, bulges, welds vs. sleeve joints, etc... I'm not sure if that is what you mean by eyelets or not - typically I think of spoke eyelets.

As I said before, I think there are better options out there for what you'll drop on a Deep-V wheelset at retail.

care to suggest any stronger wheels or give more bang for the buck? I'm contemplating getting a new wheelset, but it's hard to find other options or at least it has been for me, without going the custom made route. There's so many deep v sets on ebay compared to everything else I've seen so far.

any 'custom' wheel will be stronger than one you buy from ebay. handbuilt wheels are always stronger than machine mades. for the most part, bike prices are transparent: you get what you pay for.

for a cheap strong wheel you should consider lacing and definitely have it built locally. counter to what i just said about spoke length, a 4x wheel on any rim would be very strong. if the arguement for deep-vs strength is based in interweb blowout prices, than i am trading camps and saying that deep-v rims don't mean dick. anything handbuilt is stronger.

the mavic cxp33 is a nicer aero rim, and not much more expensive.

Aluminum is frozen at room temperature.

Yeah, right. These 20 YO low cross section Mavics laced 2 years ago and ridden almost daily since then rain, snow or shine, got untrue, indeed.
http://www.pbase.com/wojtek_burkot/i...481/medium.jpg

One of them, to be exact, about a month ago, when a Jeep from the side street hit me on a broadside. BTW, it required all of 4 minutes to re-true it.

I don't know whether that's correct or not, but even if it is, I know A/C and Mavic (on their pre-built wheels) use a shrinking process on their rims, so the spoke tension is extremely high. Basically they use the process to shrink the rim (I was under the impression it was freezing it) lace the wheel up, then release the shrinking process. If I recall correctly, (sorry I don't remember the units) the tension for Mavic pre-built is ~400 [units], while most hand-built wheels being only ~100 [units].

In fact, Mavic includes a plastic nipple tool so that if you break a spoke you can try and reset the tension, however this piece is plastic and typically rounds out after replacing a single spoke. On Mavic pre-built wheels multiple broken spokes usually results in a shipment back to Mavic. You can certainly true pre-built wheels easily enough, as the tension of the nipples is held in check evenly throughout the wheel (none are broken). Even for one broken spoke, setting that tension at ~100 [units] is OK, since there is so much more on all of the others. This applies to pre-built wheels directly from Mavic's factory, not ones such as the Open Pro / Ultegra sets.