yes it does

still a great value.

better than origin 8 if only marginally.

i have the kazane which are the 144bcd variety of the andel/pake/iro

I have the black ones, and there's a scuff, but not really a scratch. Doesn't really bother me much, plus I really like the matte black finish, which matches my matte black Easton stem and matte gunmetal frameset.

And black front aerospoke?

^^^^

Nice try, but FAIL

how the **** should i know i dont run pake cranks theyll break in half in a month in fact all cranks under 150 will

good bang for the buck
 

"they'll break in half in a month in fact all cranks under 150 will" -Patricky

You guys are ridiculous. Alloy metal doesn't just snap in half through normal wear and tear. And if you're dumb enough to pay over $150 for a crank made of the same stuff, especially for street use, then you must be doing something dumb enough to break it. Try working for a living, kid.

I've been riding the flat black 165mm Pake with a 42 tooth 1/8" ring and 107mm BB for about four or five months of hardcore skidding and whips (at top speed) on my '08 Giant Bowery and it's sturdy as any other. Endorsement approved.

Patricky was an idiot.

Finish has held up fine on mine over more than a year. Of course they haven't broken, I'm not the Hulk. The ring was terrible though- think Biopace. I put a Sugino ring on there.

These cranks are decent except for the hideous logo. On a side note you can remove the logos by deburring them off, however you will have to debur the whole crank.

Are you talking about the black ones? I have the silver and I took that P off with my thumbnail. I am satisfied with my cranks. My chainline isn't perfect with a 107 bb but I haven't really looked into it to see what is off.

I have the 170s on my conversion and there is nothing wrong with them. I bet you can find them cheaper than 60 bucks, too. Wholesale is ~35 dollars.

They sure aren't fancy, but the finish is good on the blue ones I have (I mean, it doesn't come off; it isn't good in that it's a hideous color, but that's what I was going for). The pake logo will rub off within a month. I took some fine grain sandpaper and did it myself. Perfect.

They are of course just a road crank with a singlespeed chainring on them, out of some mold in Taiwan. In fact, they even have the little nubs for a granny ring on the inside, but they were never drilled. LOL. Oh well. It's pretty hard to **** up a square taper crank arm. Spend the savings on a good BB, it makes more of a difference.

I can't comment on the chainring as I'm using a 42t sugino I already had, but it looks like it would hold up fine.

You guys are stupid. You wouldn't recognize a joke if it poked you in the ****ing eye.

It should be pretty close, since both a 107mm (symmetrical) and 110mm (asymmetrical) bottom bracket have the same drive side length.

The 107 mm has the same length spindle on both sides, whereas the 110mm has 3 extra mm on the non-drive side. The pake crank is symmetrical, so the 107 works best.

Logo comes off with Lacquer Thinner
 

The “P” logo seems to be paint. Alcohol on a rag didn’t affect it, but lacquer thinner and a good rub took it right off. The black was unaffected — I think that it’s anodized, but don’t know how to tell for sure.

The thread was from 2009. While potentially good info, the thread was lying dormant for over 11 years.