I Love My Windsor Hour!
#926
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Wonderful bikes! My Clockwork comes in tomorrow, I'll try to get some pics up.

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can anyone recommend a starting point for a size for me? THe bikes I have had so far are small, I think my current is no bigger than a 54cm.
I'm 5'10 with 32 inseam if i remember correctly (but generally I have pretty long legs). My friend thinks his 61 would be good for me, and it feels pretty good stretched out but I was thinking 58cm. Then I just read in this thread another 5'10 person saying hte 54 might be too big. I realize every person is different. Any advice?
I'm 5'10 with 32 inseam if i remember correctly (but generally I have pretty long legs). My friend thinks his 61 would be good for me, and it feels pretty good stretched out but I was thinking 58cm. Then I just read in this thread another 5'10 person saying hte 54 might be too big. I realize every person is different. Any advice?

#928
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I'm 5'5 and been riding on a 54cm. Fits me perfectly.

#929
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5'11 ride a 58cm. little standover room but fits great when i'm riding..all that matters.

#930
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I have a 32 inseam and my 58" hour fits me great. However, I'm 6'1" so if you are 3 inches shorter but have proportionally much longer legs your handlebar placement may be an issue. I might go to a local shop to get fitted.

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Just measured it out and i have a 34 inch inseam to be exact. Seems like a 58 would be good. Would a size smaller also be good or too cramped at that point?
I also hate when the seat is right on the top tube, just for aesthetics
I also hate when the seat is right on the top tube, just for aesthetics

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I have a white The Hour that I have ridden sparingly, b/c I have another FG bike, and I've been trading parts to build up the Windsor frameset the way I want.
The other day I noticed this manufacturing flaw in the frame, and I'm kicking myself in the butt, b/c I should have noticed it as soon as I got the bike (well over 30 days ago).
There's a 1-2 mm gap in the joint/weld between the non-driveside chainstay and rear dropout.

Gap w/ ruler next to it.

Demo of how a dollar bill folded over twice easily fits into it.

What do you think? It's clearly a flaw that could only happen during manufacturing. Is this something I should try to warranty w/ BD? Do you think it's a minor imperfection not worth fussing over? Does it pose any danger to ride on?
The other day I noticed this manufacturing flaw in the frame, and I'm kicking myself in the butt, b/c I should have noticed it as soon as I got the bike (well over 30 days ago).
There's a 1-2 mm gap in the joint/weld between the non-driveside chainstay and rear dropout.

Gap w/ ruler next to it.

Demo of how a dollar bill folded over twice easily fits into it.

What do you think? It's clearly a flaw that could only happen during manufacturing. Is this something I should try to warranty w/ BD? Do you think it's a minor imperfection not worth fussing over? Does it pose any danger to ride on?

#933
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Might want to call them but I think it would be fine if its welded in.
Question though, do you think these tires will fit on an Hour? https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...oducts_id=8435
Question though, do you think these tires will fit on an Hour? https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...oducts_id=8435

#934
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You know, I do not look like I have long legs or arms but apparently I do since I see so many on here with 5-10 to 5-11 height and 31 inseams, hmmm, I think they may be measuring wrong myself.

#935
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I have a white The Hour that I have ridden sparingly, b/c I have another FG bike, and I've been trading parts to build up the Windsor frameset the way I want.
The other day I noticed this manufacturing flaw in the frame, and I'm kicking myself in the butt, b/c I should have noticed it as soon as I got the bike (well over 30 days ago).
There's a 1-2 mm gap in the joint/weld between the non-driveside chainstay and rear dropout.

Gap w/ ruler next to it.

Demo of how a dollar bill folded over twice easily fits into it.

What do you think? It's clearly a flaw that could only happen during manufacturing. Is this something I should try to warranty w/ BD? Do you think it's a minor imperfection not worth fussing over? Does it pose any danger to ride on?
The other day I noticed this manufacturing flaw in the frame, and I'm kicking myself in the butt, b/c I should have noticed it as soon as I got the bike (well over 30 days ago).
There's a 1-2 mm gap in the joint/weld between the non-driveside chainstay and rear dropout.

Gap w/ ruler next to it.

Demo of how a dollar bill folded over twice easily fits into it.

What do you think? It's clearly a flaw that could only happen during manufacturing. Is this something I should try to warranty w/ BD? Do you think it's a minor imperfection not worth fussing over? Does it pose any danger to ride on?
that is odd
and should not be like that
I am at the bike show right now - But I can work on this when I get back
probably would never fail - but still a frame I would like to replace and send back to factory to inspect
Please PM me your full name and address and phone number
so I can get started on this when I get home
Thanks
Mike
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#936
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Anybody know how long it takes them to replenish their stock?
I'm looking to buy one but it keeps saying sold out, for my size.
And I've been on their mailing list...hmm
Thanks for the reply
I'm looking to buy one but it keeps saying sold out, for my size.
And I've been on their mailing list...hmm
Thanks for the reply

#937
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I just want to say that it is really cool that you are willing to replace his frame

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Just added fyxation to the rear. vitoria in the front. Soma risers oury grips. 17tcoming soon

#939
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so i am looking to upgrade my crankset/bottom bracket cause the chain tension is terrible and the chainline seems to be off as well.
what size bottom bracket should i get? i want to have a good chainline with a formula hub (the kind that comes on weinmann dp18s)
school me on this
thanks
what size bottom bracket should i get? i want to have a good chainline with a formula hub (the kind that comes on weinmann dp18s)
school me on this
thanks

#940
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glad to see that the Fyxation fits this bike, once the stock tires/wheels die I am going to get a pair of those.. Today was the hardest that I have ridden my Hour, it was raining a little bit but I had a blast and wore myself out.. Gotta do something about the gearing though and get a 17 tooth cog on there asap. It must be a combination of riding often and quitting smoking but my endurance and comfort on this bike has gone way up. Also I have no problems getting in my clips anymore.. they are still the ****ty stock ones just because I have been too lazy to upgrade, I had not used toe clips since my MTB in the mid 90s and it took a while to get used to kicking into them with the cranks spinning.
What I am most surprised about is the fact that my wheels have stayed true.. I am a pretty big dude and the streets here are not the best, even after hopping a few curbs and stuff they are still looking good without any broken spokes or anything.. kind of bummed since i want to upgrade and its making me doubt that I NEED 36 spokes...
Also to the guy above.. if your chain tension is off swapping your BB and crankset is not going to fix it, learn how to adjust it correctly.. and DP18s are just a rim, they come with a lot of different hubs depending on who builds them.. the bike comes with formulas stock..
What I am most surprised about is the fact that my wheels have stayed true.. I am a pretty big dude and the streets here are not the best, even after hopping a few curbs and stuff they are still looking good without any broken spokes or anything.. kind of bummed since i want to upgrade and its making me doubt that I NEED 36 spokes...
Also to the guy above.. if your chain tension is off swapping your BB and crankset is not going to fix it, learn how to adjust it correctly.. and DP18s are just a rim, they come with a lot of different hubs depending on who builds them.. the bike comes with formulas stock..

#941
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Also to the guy above.. if your chain tension is off swapping your BB and crankset is not going to fix it, learn how to adjust it correctly.. and DP18s are just a rim, they come with a lot of different hubs depending on who builds them.. the bike comes with formulas stock..
they are the formula hubs with the sealed bearings, not the crappy stock ones (those fell apart long ago).
the ones on this wheelset: https://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...59bb21141b840d

#942
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So my trek 7.3fx (a hybrid road bike) got stripped of its saddle and wheels by some meth head. New wheels, new cassette, new tires, new seat post, new seat would all probably run more then the bike is worth. I am also not inclined to scour Craiglist to find used replacement parts. I also wanted an excuse to buy a SS.
So I decided to purchase a Windsor Clockwork. Unfortunately site unseen is a little scary. Two questions.
1. I am 6'2" and have a 34.5 inseam from crotch to floor. "Regular" pants inseam would be about 32-33-34, depending on the cut of the pants. I feel like I have a long torso and arms. I must have read a dozen articles and filled out at least a half that many online calculators. And they are all different! I went with 61. It seems like this 75% of the info points me this way, and they all seem to reccomend going large when in doubt.
However, it also seems that people here on this forum are running smaller then recommended. Why is that? Is it something about FG/SS track geometry? Should I have gone with the 58? They probably won't ship until Monday...
2. Assuming I need to tweak the size with a new stem or angle bar height, which way would one prefer to tweak? Tweak a 58 to fit, or tweak a 61 to fit?
PS: I know this will get a "use the search button moran!", but I didn't see an answer right on point.
So I decided to purchase a Windsor Clockwork. Unfortunately site unseen is a little scary. Two questions.
1. I am 6'2" and have a 34.5 inseam from crotch to floor. "Regular" pants inseam would be about 32-33-34, depending on the cut of the pants. I feel like I have a long torso and arms. I must have read a dozen articles and filled out at least a half that many online calculators. And they are all different! I went with 61. It seems like this 75% of the info points me this way, and they all seem to reccomend going large when in doubt.
However, it also seems that people here on this forum are running smaller then recommended. Why is that? Is it something about FG/SS track geometry? Should I have gone with the 58? They probably won't ship until Monday...
2. Assuming I need to tweak the size with a new stem or angle bar height, which way would one prefer to tweak? Tweak a 58 to fit, or tweak a 61 to fit?
PS: I know this will get a "use the search button moran!", but I didn't see an answer right on point.

#943
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I have a 34 inch inseam and ride a 61 without any issue, fits me perfectly... A lot of people tend to ride FG/SS a bit smaller though, its just personal preference.

#944
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How does the bike look? Is the seat right on top of the top tube?

#945
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nope not at all, ill post a picture in a minute

#946
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That would be great, thanks a million! Actually leaning 58...
There is only a 7MM difference in the top tube length between a 58 and a 61? AND the stem is only 70 MM? Since everyone says that the top tube length is the big deal... Can't i just get more bang for the buck by replacing the stem and not worrying about the larger sized bike? According to these same calculators a 58 seat tube is probably better then the 61. I could just extend the stem to even everything out...
The Competitive Fit (cm)
-------------------------------------------
Seat tube range c-c: 55.9 - 56.4
Seat tube range c-t: 57.7 - 58.2
Top tube length: 58.2 - 58.6
Stem Length: 11.8 - 12.4
BB-Saddle Position: 84.6 - 86.6
Saddle-Handlebar: 56.0 - 56.6
Saddle Setback: 3.6 - 4.0
The Eddy Fit (cm)
-------------------------------------------
Seat tube range c-c: 57.1 - 57.6
Seat tube range c-t: 58.9 - 59.4
Top tube length: 58.2 - 58.6
Stem Length: 10.7 - 11.3
BB-Saddle Position: 83.8 - 85.8
Saddle-Handlebar: 56.8 - 57.4
Saddle Setback: 4.8 - 5.2
The French Fit (cm)
-------------------------------------------
Seat tube range c-c: 58.8 - 59.3
Seat tube range c-t: 60.6 - 61.1
Top tube length: 59.4 - 59.8
Stem Length: 10.9 - 11.5
BB-Saddle Position: 82.1 - 84.1
Saddle-Handlebar: 58.5 - 59.1
Saddle Setback: 4.3 - 4.7
There is only a 7MM difference in the top tube length between a 58 and a 61? AND the stem is only 70 MM? Since everyone says that the top tube length is the big deal... Can't i just get more bang for the buck by replacing the stem and not worrying about the larger sized bike? According to these same calculators a 58 seat tube is probably better then the 61. I could just extend the stem to even everything out...
The Competitive Fit (cm)
-------------------------------------------
Seat tube range c-c: 55.9 - 56.4
Seat tube range c-t: 57.7 - 58.2
Top tube length: 58.2 - 58.6
Stem Length: 11.8 - 12.4
BB-Saddle Position: 84.6 - 86.6
Saddle-Handlebar: 56.0 - 56.6
Saddle Setback: 3.6 - 4.0
The Eddy Fit (cm)
-------------------------------------------
Seat tube range c-c: 57.1 - 57.6
Seat tube range c-t: 58.9 - 59.4
Top tube length: 58.2 - 58.6
Stem Length: 10.7 - 11.3
BB-Saddle Position: 83.8 - 85.8
Saddle-Handlebar: 56.8 - 57.4
Saddle Setback: 4.8 - 5.2
The French Fit (cm)
-------------------------------------------
Seat tube range c-c: 58.8 - 59.3
Seat tube range c-t: 60.6 - 61.1
Top tube length: 59.4 - 59.8
Stem Length: 10.9 - 11.5
BB-Saddle Position: 82.1 - 84.1
Saddle-Handlebar: 58.5 - 59.1
Saddle Setback: 4.3 - 4.7

#947
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#948
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I don't have my bike with me, does anyone know if this years hour is using a 1/8" or 3/32" chain?

#949
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#950
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maybe my fat dude legs are so ****ing strong that I weld cogs to hubs but the shop broke their chainwhip tonight trying to take off my factory cog
new wheel build excuse time?

