In terms of the frame alone, are all these bikes pretty similiar? I know they're all steel frames. I currently ride a True Temper OX steel frame (853 quality I guess), so I know what to expect from steel (yes, it's real!).

But in terms of quality of these Bike Directs frames, are they pretty much the same from one frame to another?

I can deal with buying brakes/cogs/bars & replacing those (those can be had pretty cheap on ebay). It's a little more difficult switching frames. I just want to pick "the best" frame from the bunch and start from there.

Well I think that the Kilo might have the best frame, but I couldn't handle 1-2 inches of overlap, so I didn't go for it. You might want someone else's help on which is the best frame.

OUCH!!! I hate over lap!!! Is there an easy way to tell if a frame has toe overlap?

i love my 64cm messenger. no toe overlap whasoever. awesome bike. i bought it because it is the same as the windsor hour and fuji track. but with brakes. and an awesome deal!

How about smaller bikes? 2new2this (or anyone with a 52cm bike), can you do me a favor? If your bike is around, can you manually check for me? I just want to make sure there's no overlap (with toe straps on).

I have about 2 inches of extra room with the stock pedals/clips when I turn it all the way on the 52cm bike. Way more than ample. The Kilo is about 2 inches of overlap from what I have heard. So a 4 inch difference between the two bikes. With the same tubing Id definitely go for the Messenger, regardless of how much more track the Kilo is.

where is the bike going to be ridden? on the track only? or on the street. give me street/track geometry over "agressive geometry" any day

Thank you!!! I don't even know what "more track" or "more aggressive geometry" is. I'm guessing it's better for racing? I rather have comfort anyday. If it's comfortable, I'll ride more. It's as simple as that.

Mind me asking how tall you are? I think I'm picking the right size. I'm 5'8".

I am 5'7"-5'9" I think. I wear size 32 pants, if that makes a difference. It is a very comfortable bike. I could ride all day, and with the exception of the saddle, I wouldn't have a problem. From the sounds of it, you don't mind the relaxed geo, and you don't want overlap, this bike is definitely for you.

WHOA! you're 64cm :eek::eek:? how friggin tall are you?

Another thing I notice....isn't this bike geared pretty high? 48x16 is a pretty tall gearing (80 gear inches?). I don't know if my weak legs can push that! On my roadie (triple), I use 42x17 (65 gear iinches) 75% of the time!! The other 25%, I use 42x15 (74 gear inches).

I have no idea how you guys are running the stock gearing on the Messenger! You guys must be pretty damn strong!

What is the "average" gear inch others use? Is 80 gear inches a pretty common number?

some of us don't have the money to buy new parts, or to get them replaced either. I'd like to get a 17t cog at some point.

on a side note, i went to the city today and saw a blue motomess parked outside of the NYU building by union square, would that be anyone's here?

Do it! Fixies are a lot of fun and offer a really 'different' ride experience. Whether you are already a cycling enthusiast or just a guy who sometimes enjoys riding a bike, a fixie can put the fun between your legs.

Asking this question in this thread is like asking the Pope if God exists. Of course we all think the bike is pretty good.

The hawt orange paint.

≈20lbs. It's pretty light for a sub-$500 bike.

I think the bike feels really twitchy but I ride a hardtail mtb and a hybrid bike when I'm not on the fixie. If you are coming from a racier oreinted road bike you probably wouldn't notice as much of a difference. When i say twitchy, i mean it in a good way, like the way a race car's clutch might be twitchy.

You are also bending the chain a little (not a straight chain line on derailleur bikes) and pulling the chain through all those extra cogs on the derailleur. The fixie will be much lighter without all the extra metal gears, shifters, etc. so it's more efficient (easier) to pedal in a higher gear.

Anyone who has been riding a bike for a while will build up the necessary muscles to ride this bike even on moderately hilly terrain. Once you get the bike you'll see that it's (A) pretty light weight for cranking up hills and (B) since you never freewheel, the bike makes you continue to pedal even if your legs say "we should coast for a minute".

≈70GI is the standard. If you live someplace that is super flat, you might go higher, if you live someplace with a lot of hills you might need to go lower. I run 48/18 gearing and it suits me very well for the rolling hills around East Tennessee.

Good luck getting a bike. If you've read this whole thread you probably already know this but the stock pedals are crap and you should budget for replacements ASAP. I didn't care for the saddle either, but several other members have said they had no trouble with the stock seat so YMMV.

I read the entire thread! I actually read it twice....and it made much much much more sense the 2nd time. The only reason I even considered a fixie was because a friend of mine just built a conversion from an 80s Fuji and I hopped on it. I only rode it 100ft or so. But it felt soooooooo weird not being able to coast. Each time I wanted to coast, I felt as if the bike is trying to throw me off.

Now I want my own. I never considered a fixie before because I didn't want to be known as a hipster. But I can tell it's so much fun to ride!

As far as pedals & seats, I'll probably move my Brooks B17 from my roadie over. I'll probably go toestraps for now....but maybe eventually clipless (since I've been riding clipless for the longest time now).

Also, can you outfit the bike with fenders & racks? This may be my "do everything" bike. I actually like the look of this.....especially that front rack and don't mind having on on this bike! http://velospace.org/node/1981

yes, you can outfit this bike with fenders and rack.

Another question. Is this bike a knock off from another more well known bike? If it is, I want to pop in the LBS to test ride that other bike to get a feel of it before pulling the trigger.

Or......anyone in Brooklyn care to let me test ride? :)

i don't think that questions has ever been answered.

and you should know the rules about bikes in the city, no test rides ;)

the motobecane messenger = windsor the hour = fuji track

But it's got brakes and hotter colors. :thumb:

Hey Folks,

This is the 5th fixed gear I've owned (the previous ones I've had were built from vintage frames) and I took it out for a short 20 mile ride after assembling it arrived today. I was very impressed with how rigid it is and how nice it was for a factory stocker/beginner bike. The parts, like the cranks, seemed a little old-school with the square taper, but I'm good with it. I'm glad I got the threadless fork version rather than the 1" threaded fork or else I would've immediately replaced it with a threadless adapter and new stem.

I did add on some Profile AirWing bars, a Cane Creek Lever and clipless pedals. I'm also going to replace the seat with a Brooks B17. The current weight is 19.66lbs.

I ride flatland BMX primarily, even though I'm the man behind www.uglypads.com which is dedicated to those damn top-tube pads everybody seems to love to hate, so I'm used to abusing bike parts very bad via BMX. I wanted to ride fixed again because my BMX bikes absolutely (especially my flatland BMX bike) suck for simple jaunts to the post office and around the town errands. I also didn't want to spend/waste the money on building up a vintage frame again when I could get a factory complete for under $350.

As far as some sub-par parts that everybody seems to complain about, I don't mind replacing them if they go out. I replace parts all the time on my BMX bikes due to failure, but that just means I will upgrade to something stronger and lighter. However, I don't trick around on my fixed gear bikes like skid-stops (they just hurt my knees), so I probably won't be abusing this like some do. I leave the tricks to a bike that is designed for such.

The 48/16 gearing isn't bad if you live somewhere flat. I climbed two hills today without a problem, but if I lived in a super hilly area, I would probably go two teeth up on the rear cog.

Dion "Dion Rides"
www.uglypads.com

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Dion,

Glad to hear you are enjoying the new bike.

I agree with your statement about using a larger cog for hilly areas. I'm running 48/18 in the foothills of the Smokey Mountains and it works out really well for me. I think on flat ground the lower gearing makes me spin faster which is a very good thing from an endurance standpoint too. Just ask Lance Armstrong, he wins because he can maintain a higher cadence in a lower gear ratio than his competition.

I find that I'm skidding a lot less than I was when I first got my Messenger. I think I've gotten over the newness of it and after replacing the rear tire with a $40 Gator Skin, it hurts my wallet to shred it up.

Whoa! I actually read the whole thread just now.

20-30-40 miles on a fixed gear isn't that bad, folks - if a fat boy like me can do it, you svelte fixie riders can! You just have to believe in yourself. :D

A few points:

1. Clipless pedals: I rode straps for a long time until my brother (who races 24 hour MTB races on a team, and been riding/racing MTB's for 20 years) turned me on to clipless. Straps are cool for general commuting because of the shoe issue, but if you want efficiency in your pedal stroke, clipless is much better. First, the shoe sole is rigid, not flimsy like a $20 pair of low-top Vans. I know they're cool for style, but for riding a bicycle, they absolutely suck. Second, the upstroke is more efficient when you are locked in with no give. The strap can stretch and give, but when you are clipped-in, there is none of that. Third, you save a TON of weight. A more efficient stroke means less fatigue, and less fatigue means you can ride longer.

Shoes in bicycle riding are very important. Even what I wear for BMX are high-end stiff-soled BMX specific shoes. Since I'm standing on footpegs and kicking/scuffing tires with my feet on one wheel, I need something that will take the abuse. Well, the same goes with road shoes.

I will never go back to straps after switching to clipless! Sell some of your crap on eBay and gather a couple hundred bucks to get some good pedals and shoes. Especially if this is your daily commuter - make it the best, most efficient ride you can!

2. Tire pressure: On our flatland BMX bikes, my buddies and I run 120PSI. That gives is less rolling resistance. Air your tires up to 110 (or max pressure) with a high-volume bicycle pump. Your legs and lungs will love you for it.

3. Riding fixed in general: Be safe, my friends. I'm not going to stand on a soapbox and preach about brakeless bikes, etc. :deadhorse: But you are all grown-ups - ride with some sense. Personally, I ride with a front brake, a good road-helmet and gloves everytime I go out. Mainly, because I'm riding among cars... and if you live in the Bay Area, Ca. like I do, that is a deathwish in-and-of-itself! I admit, when I ride flatland BMX, I don't wear a helmet for the simple fact that when I bail (about 5-10 times a hour) I just walk away + I'm riding in a tennis or basketball court. In a battle against a car - you will definetely lose.

Fixies have gotten very popular in the last few years, but I see a lot of improperly fitted bikes (can cause joint problems) and very interesting choices in bicycle safety. What do they say on the warning stickers? "Bicycle riding is a dangerous activity..." :notamused::lol:

Dion "Dion Rides"
www.uglypads.com

so, i dusted off my old handlebars and put on some new tape :)


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so good :)

yep

srsly, secksi bike.