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Singlespeed & Fixed Gear "I still feel that variable gears are only for people over forty-five. Isn't it better to triumph by the strength of your muscles than by the artifice of a derailer? We are getting soft...As for me, give me a fixed gear!"-- Henri Desgrange (31 January 1865 - 16 August 1940)

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Old 09-14-08, 07:59 PM   #1
johnnytheboy
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a brooks question....

so i finally got around to buying a brooks yesterday, a b17 champion special.
i know that these saddles are handmade, and therefore, aren't perfect.
i put 30 miles on the saddle today, and it's already the most comfortable saddle i've ever been on (which really makes me question what i've had under my ass before now).
anyway, on the underside where it mounts, there's about 1mm clearance between the skirt of the saddle and the mounting clamp.
is this going to pose a problem?
i'm guessing when i'm on the saddle that the leather is pressed up against the metal piece.
it's only on this one side, too.
just wondering if anyone else has this problem, and if it will lead to a premature failure on the leather in this area.
thanks.


Last edited by johnnytheboy; 09-14-08 at 08:03 PM.
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Old 09-14-08, 08:26 PM   #2
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......and before you guys tell me to slide the saddle forward a cm or 2...the saddle feels perfect in the position it's in now.
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Old 09-14-08, 09:00 PM   #3
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i'm guessing when i'm on the saddle that the leather is pressed up against the metal piece.
If you watch your saddle when you put some weight on it you'll see that the sides actually flare out a bit. Even if it was rubbing on the clamp I can't possibly see that leading to "premature failure". My old Terry Fly used to rub in this spot and I never had a problem so the MUCH thicker leather on your B17 will be fine.
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Old 09-14-08, 09:01 PM   #4
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Is it leaving a mark on the inside of the skirt? If not, it ain't hurting a thing.
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Old 09-14-08, 09:09 PM   #5
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Is it leaving a mark on the inside of the skirt? If not, it ain't hurting a thing.
not yet, but i've only ridden like 30 miles on it.
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Old 09-14-08, 09:19 PM   #6
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Let's see ----- it's not touching, and you are worried about it touching. Check it again in a couple months..... Enjoy it!

By the way - I don't see any proofide on the bottom of that saddle....
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Old 09-14-08, 09:19 PM   #7
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It's fine--the leather can wear against metal a little just fine.
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Old 09-14-08, 09:24 PM   #8
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i didn't proofide it.

yet.
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Old 09-14-08, 09:34 PM   #9
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thinking about getting sno seal instead of proofide.
$3.78 a can vs. $20...and apparently it does the same thing.
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Old 09-14-08, 09:57 PM   #10
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Snoseal won't let the leather breathe. It plugs the pores, and waterproofs it. Might also soften it tooooo much.
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Old 09-14-08, 10:04 PM   #11
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So is proofide something I need to do immediately?
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Old 09-14-08, 10:09 PM   #12
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Snoseal won't let the leather breathe. It plugs the pores, and waterproofs it. Might also soften it tooooo much.
Not according to their website. http://www.atsko.com/products/waterp.../sno-seal.html

* Enjoy dry feet all day!
* Prevents water from penetrating leather.
* Lubricates and conditions leather without softening.
* Preserves and lengthens the life of leather.
* Does not interfere with the natural breathability of leather.
* Extremely resistant to salt stains and spotting.
* Does not soften heel counters or box toes.
* Will not damage seams or welts.
* Maintains flexibility in freezing temperatures.
* Will not crack during continual flexing of leather.
* Does not deteriorate like other products containing animal fat.
* Contains no silicone.
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Old 09-14-08, 10:14 PM   #13
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Sheldon also reccommended sno seal.
He even said neatsfoot was ok for brooks saddles.
Read his article about leather.

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Old 09-14-08, 10:26 PM   #14
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So is proofide something I need to do immediately?
I didn't treat mine for over two months when I first bought it and it didn't affect the saddle at all. If you plan on riding in rain or snow then, obviously, treat it ASAP otherwise you can put it off for a while.
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Old 09-14-08, 10:32 PM   #15
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This is good news. I reckon I can save up $20 between now and november.
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Old 09-14-08, 10:34 PM   #16
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some people mod the B17 by cutting off the side skirts so I imagine it is fine. Others lace the skirts together to get a stiffer saddle.
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Old 09-15-08, 05:40 AM   #17
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I've seen this kind of flaw before. This kind of stress is no laughing matter; it can generate hairline cracks that lead to sudden and catastrophic saddle failure , that in turn causes your nuts to go supernova. To be safe, please mail the saddle to me for proper disposal.


J/k, this kind of contact will do the same kind of "harm" that a coin does to the inside of your leather wallet---only a lot less. It's a non issue. Your saddle is as tough as leather, because it is leather, so stop worrying.

Last edited by mander; 09-15-08 at 05:43 AM.
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Old 09-15-08, 05:47 AM   #18
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Use proofide instead of some cheap alternative. There's a reason brooks sells the stuff and specifically recommends you use it during the breaking in period. I trust a company that's been in business dealing with leather since 1866 over a bunch of online forum recommendations any day.
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Old 09-15-08, 06:19 AM   #19
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use proofide instead of some cheap alternative. There's a reason brooks sells the stuff and specifically recommends you use it during the breaking in period. I trust a company that's been in business dealing with leather since 1866 over a bunch of online forum recommendations any day.
+1
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Old 09-15-08, 07:38 AM   #20
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so you 2 are calling sheldon's advice an "online forum recommendation"?
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Old 09-15-08, 07:41 AM   #21
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In before SpOOki on a Brooks thread! Sweet!
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Old 09-15-08, 07:46 AM   #22
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i bought one of the small tin of proofide and put some on after soaking my saddle, i am glad i put some on there now i just keep a plastic shopping bag under the rails in case i get caught in some weather

i am loving the way the color of the leather is changing from use
i also have the champion b17 special honey
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Old 09-15-08, 07:47 AM   #23
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after soaking your saddle in what?
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Old 09-15-08, 07:57 AM   #24
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sorry, i got it soaked riding in the rain so after i let it dry for a couple days i applied some proofide
when it was wet it was like soggy cardboard
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Old 09-15-08, 08:08 AM   #25
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sheldon said:

The easiest and fastest method to break in a new saddle is with a liquid leather dressing, such as neatsfoot oil, Lexol, seal oil (a French favorite) or baseball glove oil.. These products are available from shoe stores and sporting-goods stores. There are probably lots of other liquid oils that would work as well-RAAM pioneer Lon Haldeman uses SAE 30 motor oil, but his saddles tend to wear out after only 300,000 miles or so (according to Cyclist Magazine). Paste or wax type leather dressings, such as Brooks Proofide, Sno-Seal, and saddle soap will work, but it takes much, much longer to break in a saddle that way.

Note; treatment and break-in of leather saddles is not an exact science, and there are those that claim that some of the products I've listed are harmful to leather. If absolute safety is your primary concern, using Brooks Proofide according to directions is probably the best approach...but you may find that the break-in period is un-necessarily long with this approach.
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