Shorter stem to compensate large frame?
 

Would a shorter stem (in the horizontal direction) help me in the meantime while I look for a smaller frame? I can get my saddle low enough so that my knees aren't bending too much, and I'm actually pretty comfortable in that aspect. Yet, I still have a little discomfort in my lower back from the reach when I go down to the drops. It's like I'm stretching my torso which may be good for my flexibility I just can't take the feeling on longer rides.

I don't mind riding the higher part of the bars all the time but my brake can only be reached comfortably with my hands on the drops and I like that peace of mind when I'm in a congested area.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v1...e/IMG_1145.jpg

yes. a seat post with no setback might also help.

What onetwentyeight said and in addition, if you don't want to get a zero set-back seatpost you can move your seat forward a bit.

Thanks, I'll move it up before my ride to work tomorrow and see how that feels.

Would a stem like this help me out?
http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...oducts_id=3433

A zero set-back seatpost or a more forward seat position might be bad for your knees so be careful. I prefer to setup my seat height and fore/aft position before I even think about reach. Let comfort be your guide I guess. And get a smaller frame.

You might not need another seatpost. Try to turn around/reverse the one you have. Some seat posts allow that.

That would bring the handlebars up and closer to you. While this accomplishes what you want, it is a drastic change. Make sure that you want to be a lot more upright before you get that stem. I personally would go with something like this in as short (reach) as possible (looks like 60 is the shortest). It looks better, and still gives you a road-bike feel.

anonther point - as you shorten the stem, you move weight balance to the rear. That lightens the front wheel which will impact handling. On wet roads you will need to use caution as the potential for the bike to slide (and go down) in turns will increase. Of course it depends on have far you shorten it.

why is that bad for your knees?

shortening the stem affecting the handling is not about weight distribution, its about shrinking the arc that the bars make while turning that can make a smaller input have a greater output. I do not like to go below 80mm, as it gets to twitchy, and i dont like going past 120mm. If you get 80 and its still too long, try investing in some short reach drop bars.

moving your seat forward can impact your knees as it affects the relationship of the knee over pedal spindle. ideally if the seat tube of the bike is 73 degrees, when your pedals are at 3 and 9 oclock, the back of the patella on the forward leg should be directly above the pedal spindle. Every degree off of 73 is about 1.8cm forward or behind, depending. The goal of this is to have one pedaling straight down when at the most powerful part of pedal rotation, not pushing forward or backwards but up and down like a piston. Considering the bike is too big for you as is, i think switching to the zero setback will only help, as you're probably too far back now. Also it gets a bit fuzzier when you are using clips and straps, it is more important when you are riding clipless.

I would not switch the seatpost around, as many posts are designed to take loads in that direction, and you are putting yourself at risk to break it.

Get yourself some Soma North Road commuter bars. That'll get you a better position. You can flip them down for a Major Taylor look if desired.

flipped down
http://gallery.mac.com/bbattle/100187/100_1122/web.jpg

or flipped up
http://gallery.mac.com/bbattle/100187/P1010035/web.jpg

Hey, that is very nice and is exactly the bar I'm looking to install on my winter commuter. I'm building up an old Styer Clubman and would prefer a short reach. Where did you get it?

A shorter stem will definitely help. You can go as low as 60 mm, but beware the increase in steering sensitivity. (I currently run a 50 mm and I have no problem with it, even with kamakazi-style riding. :thumb:)

A no-set-back seat post will definitely help, and moving the saddle forward a little will put you closer to the brakes. But avoid reversing the seatpost as it might counter the load bearing design.

Also, a big help is to install a drop handlebar with a shorter reach, as this will bring the brake levers closer to you. Here's an example:

https://www.universalcycles.com/shop...2&category=636

Or you can install a nice flipped townie bar, like the one in the pictures above.

Cheers. Your bike looks fantastic and I don't think you need a smaller frame.

i disagree. a smaller frame is definitely necessary. that bike can be fudged to work okay, but there will always be a compromise somewhere.

definitely get a smaller frame. that one has a relaxed seat tube, so a lower-offset seatpost and/or moving the saddle forward shouldn't put you in too much danger (as long as your KOPS is about right, as 128 explained).

ultimately saddle height and position should be determined by your body from the hips down, and your handlebar setup by your torso, arms, and hands. you shouldn't correct a too-large frame with a short stem except temporarily; likewise you shouldn't make a small frame 'fit' with a ridiculous seatpost and bullhorns on a 140mm stem.

Nitto North Road Bars

Pyramid has a cheaper version. Soma sells a version called the Oxford bar. Soma also has the Sparrow bar, which is similar but a deeper drop/rise and is narrower.