Light SS/fixed setups
 

Hello all, I interested in building a super duper light fixie/SS bike. So I was wondering if there was any recommendations that anybody has. I've been checking out some lugged bikes but, I don't think they would be really light. I myself have about 4 older steel lugged bikes. The target weight on the bike I have on my mind is about 15-17 pounds with the price range of $1000. So if possible let me know which frames you would recommend. Thanks in advance.

Pics would be awesome also.

carbon fiber is light

Captain Obvious to the rescue.

Since you only want to drop a grand on this project, I'd start with a used Al frame of some sort or a new Leader. Stay away from stupid fixie garbage like deep v's and steel stems. Used tubular wheelsets often go for cheaper than used clincher sets, and they'll be lighter and ride nicer. Go threadless, and if you could find a more modern crankset with outboard bearings you could save a little bit of weight that way.

Mainly focus on wheels and frame though, since that's where most of your weight is going to come from.

Thanks for the replies and yes the Carbon is great but, it is out of reach. I'm looking for a frame and fork set that would run me about 300-400. I've heard great things about the Trek T1 but, I only want the frame and fork, not the complete bike. Is 15-16 pounds for a fixie/SS bike impossible to get for the amount I'm willing to spend. I already have a mavic tubular track wheelset. Also what type
crankset you speaking of?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=170117835552


Also if anybody is interested I have a extra pair of those wheels. I'm willing to sell it for $160 which is pretty much at my cost. Let me know. If anybody is interested.

cheers

Make the frame as small as practical. So many people ride needlessly heavy bikes because they get sizes larger than they need.

I converted my old Litespeed Classic into a dedicated SS. It is stupid light. I think the heaviest component on that thing is the White Industires freecog....:p

fuji track pro. 400 for frameset.

Oh shut up. You don't gain much at all when you go with a larger frame. Por ejemplo, a 54cm Cross Check weighs a stunning 90 grams more than a 42. Look at the geometry specs.

Get a bike that fits and don't worry about that particular 1/10 of a pound.

The Jamis Sputnik is really light for an off-the-shelf bike and it falls into your budget. So is the Fuji Track Pro (like somebody already mentioned). Both are really light bikes. My racing bike is light because I paid attention to every single componant and kept the weight down. I've spent way more than $1000.

Yes, the Jamis Sputnik sounds like a great choice for you, I'm jealous of how light they are.

80's aluminum frame, not a deepV, and whatever else you can find. id stick with r600 or dura-ace crankset, or something else light.

for the record, i have a schwinn world in a 58cm frame (really a 23"), brooks saddle, mavic wheelset, 105 cranks, old mafac brake and steel handlebars. my bike weighs about 23lbs. oh, and the drivetrain is all heavy duty 1/8" stuff. stick to the 3/32 for lighter overall weight.

my capo is abround 12-13lbs i think, cost about 1k to build up.

ti bottom bracket, carbon crank, lightweight wheels, carbon fork.

something aluminum.... 20h F hub laced to box rim, 24 h R hub laced to box rim. carbon seatpost. thomson stem, aluminum drops, etc

Robble robble robble.

Show me a 20 hole box section rim.

Also, Thomsons aren't really the epitome of lightness. They're just super strong for their weight.

There's also the fact that he already has a wheelset anyways.

this one: http://www.bikeforums.net/showthread.php?t=407020

heavy bikes are more stable in the wind.

Without spending loads of money on expensive and fragile carbon parts, your best ways minimize weight are to
1. build your bike around an aluminum frame and carbon fork
2. stay away from boat anchor wheels. Deepvs, 32-36 straight gauge spokes, and track hubs are absurdly heavy. Go custom and use lighter rims (like an Open Pro or Niobium 30), use butted spokes, and use a road front hub or wheel with fewer spokes. (The road front hub alone will make a very big difference in total wheel weight)
3. use a 3/32" drive train
4. use road bars and stem (track bars and stem tend to be heavier)
5. stay away from Brooks saddles (good, light saddles can be found for cheap)
6. get a high quality aluminum seatpost (Thomson)
7. get folding tires (not wire bead)
8. Use clipless roadbike pedals rather than clips and straps.
9. Pay attention to the weight of the individual components. Reasonably light stuff can be found for cheap, but expensive stuff is not always the lightest. Small weight differences in individual components can really add up to a lot of weight savings.
10. Once you get the bike built up, you can continue to gradually reduce weight cheaply by tricking it out with small touches like ti stem bolts. However, you will soon reach a point of diminishing returns.

Building a light bike is a fun challenge, but just remember that its not really going to make you faster.

+40 (the number of pounds my weight has increased over my ideal weight in the past decade)

In other words - fitness matters more :)

Lighter bike means faster off the start to get up to speed even if your top speed doesn't change.

At least it has for me.

Wrong. Most people buy frames too SMALL. Saving a few ounces and ending up with a poor fit is simply ******ed.

If you want a light bike I would get a decent light steel frame, a carbon ebay fork, and a lightweight drivetrain. Most of your weight is going to be in the crank/BB and rims, so spend your $ there. I built a Konda Paddy Wagon for a friend, and that bike was light, and it doesn't have the downsides of aluminum or carbon fiber.

-40, I'll take those back. :)

Here's 2 bikes I own.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...rm21/001-5.jpg

16 pounds, rides like a dream. Absolutely brilliant ride. Yes, I know about my seatpost btw.

http://i5.photobucket.com/albums/y18...rm21/007-2.jpg

24 pound steel bike. Guess which one is faster? Same rider, but there's an extra 8 pounds I'm lugging around on the Bianchi. But you need to cough up some dough to make it worth your while. 16-17 pound fixed gear is very possible with $1000.

It's not just weight though. Stiffness makes a big difference, also geometry and the way you want the bike to feel.

I love the Leader 725tr.

Had a 08' Fuji Track Pro last year, off the shelf complete bike was like 15.5 ish lbs. IIRC and paid $799 with a 10% discount coupon at Performance.

My current fixed bike, a Tricross Singlecross is a porker at about 21 and even with similar gearing (48x15 vs 48x16) I cannot sustain the same speeds I was able to do on the (aero) FTP but I'm willing to compromise on a versatile frame.

One frame that you should check out is Argon 18's Electron. Unless you have some parts laying around waiting to be used sometimes buying a complete bike makes more economic sense.