Why can't the BB/crank issue be easy
#1
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Why can't the BB/crank issue be easy
I have searched and searched. For two days now and have not found a definitive answer for a crank/BB combo that gives a 42mm chainline. I read one thread that so and so combined with such and such BB gives a 42 and then the next thread I read says the complete opposite.
I get close to finding a decent crankset and then get information from the seller/mechanic that the 103mm BB won't work, at the same time a website over here says that it will.
I'm so frustrated with the whole thing and just want it over with, within a reasonable price range. This isn't even putting the chance of a 48t chainring hitting the chainstays into the equation.
I needed to vent, I'm sorry.
I get close to finding a decent crankset and then get information from the seller/mechanic that the 103mm BB won't work, at the same time a website over here says that it will.
I'm so frustrated with the whole thing and just want it over with, within a reasonable price range. This isn't even putting the chance of a 48t chainring hitting the chainstays into the equation.
I needed to vent, I'm sorry.
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bulletproof cranks (165mm or 170mm), a sugino chainring, single chainring bolts and a 113mm square taper bottom bracket.
you're golden with that combo, for what it's worth.
you're golden with that combo, for what it's worth.
#5
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that bullproof combo puts the chainring on the inside/outside?
yeilds what chainline?
yeilds what chainline?
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any crank and any bb <110mm should be good enough if you put the chainring on the inside of the spider.
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Origin 8 cranks use a 103mm bb for a 42mm chainline. You can use a 107mm bb and and get 42mm if you put the chainring on the inside
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Shimano 600+107mm bb, put the ring on the outside for a ~43mm chainline.
This is one of those things that seems impossibly hard when you're learning how to do it, but is trivial once you know how. So, be cool.
This is one of those things that seems impossibly hard when you're learning how to do it, but is trivial once you know how. So, be cool.
#13
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As far as the Origin8 cranks go, I also talked to flybikeshop and they said "Our reps and mechanics instruct that this crank set is not designed to be used with a 103 BB. Pretty much with anything less than 107, you run the risk of it bottoming out on the frame."
I can figure out the mathematics of it I just don't have a shop locally that stocks a lot of track cranks and none of them have the sugino 103 in stock. In fact one of them had never heard of it.
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It really is trial and error because things never turn out to be what you think. The specs can be 1mm off. Just get yourself a set of calipers and measure yourself.
For example i did the math on the Shimano 600 (was gonna pick it up for myself) technically with a 107mm BB youre supposed to get a 42mm chainline but mander up there says his ia roughly 43mm
For example i did the math on the Shimano 600 (was gonna pick it up for myself) technically with a 107mm BB youre supposed to get a 42mm chainline but mander up there says his ia roughly 43mm
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If you get a real track trank and the bb that was made for it all can be harmonious. A crank where the chain ring can only fit in one place, the correct place.
Dura Ace NJS crank with octalink 109mm bb, 49t chain ring to DA hub.
Heaven.
Dura Ace NJS crank with octalink 109mm bb, 49t chain ring to DA hub.
Heaven.
#19
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The only sure thing when mating cranks/bottom bracket is to keep it all from the same manufacturer and product line. Sugino track cranks go with a Sugino track bottom bracket, Campy pista cranks go with a Campy pista bottom bracket from the same era, etc. Phil bottom brackets are the exception to the rule. You invite a world of hurt when you stray off into these cheapie parts.
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If you know what type of BB and length produces XYZ chainline on Z crankset. Then you can swap it out for any other manufacturers bb at will. Same with the crank.
The crank will TELL YOU what bb type + length it needs to run in order to get some chainline. Then you can substitute with appropriate bottom brackets at will.
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I put the Sugino bb and a Sugino RD crank onto a mixte frame for my wife. bought some open sports rims, formula hubs, dt swiss spokes and had the wheels built locally. Chainline straight as an arrow, quiet as a mouse.
My Raleigh frame had the old Raleigh bb so I had the LBS retap the bb threads and we put in a 109mm? shimano bb in there. Added the Sugino crank with 44 and 48T rings, ubiquitous Formula hub, freewheel cog on one side, surly dingle on the other. both fixed chainlines and the freewheel chainline are straight and quiet.
what I'm trying to say is: Don't stress too much over this. Being off a few millimeters isn't going to hurt one bit. I may have just gotten lucky but I've not even bothered to measure; bike rides fine, I'm good to go.
My Raleigh frame had the old Raleigh bb so I had the LBS retap the bb threads and we put in a 109mm? shimano bb in there. Added the Sugino crank with 44 and 48T rings, ubiquitous Formula hub, freewheel cog on one side, surly dingle on the other. both fixed chainlines and the freewheel chainline are straight and quiet.
what I'm trying to say is: Don't stress too much over this. Being off a few millimeters isn't going to hurt one bit. I may have just gotten lucky but I've not even bothered to measure; bike rides fine, I'm good to go.
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My point is being reinforced in this very thread. There is different reports of the same combo's. The overall opinion is to just get the 103 get some cranks and see if it flies. To me there seems to be a better way but I guess that's how it's done.
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There is NO reason to guess ANYTHING. The crank specifications tell you what length bb gives what chailine. It's basically laziness that allows this information to slip through the cracks. This **** ain't rocket science, it's well documented and available to anyone with half a brain.