track cranksets
 

So what's up with track cranksets? Are they preferable to road cranks for street riding?

I did see karstens's thread, where sora 165 cranksets were suggested.

Thanks.

Generally Track cranksets are for use with 1/8" chain. Road cranksets are generally used with 3/32" chain. There are some exceptions but that is the general rule. The use of 165mm cranks is recommended for road frame conversions because of the generally lower bottom bracket height which if used with the longer 170-175mm road crank lengths "might" cause grounding of the pedal during aggressive cornering which would cause an abrupt upset and crash. Many people use the longer road cranks on their conversions or track bikes with no difficulty but you should be aware of the potential for peddle strike with the use of the longer cranks. 165mm length cranks allow for a higher rate of "Spin" when peddling due to the smaller arc of the pedal as it rotates around the peddle circle. This is considered an advantage rather than relying on power for peddling. The slope of the Velodrome surface also requires the use of shorter cranks to avoid grounding.


fixedgearhead

i'm using an old D/A 170mm road crank on one of my bikes, and a sugino75 165mm crank on the other. the sugino crank is a lot stiffer and more comfortable on the bike it is on than the dura ace cranks were.

you can really use any crank you want...it depends on what feels more comfortable on each bike. i could've kept the D/A 170s on the one bike, but it just didn't FEEL comfortable. if you notice it feels like you're "high-stepping" as your pedaling, then you should probably get shorter cranks. i put those cranks on another bike and they feel perfect. different frame geometries, different fork rakes, different gear ratios.

the suginos are stiffer than the dura ace cranks and the FSA gossamer cranks that i have.

soras would probably be fine. you can slap a chainring built for a 1/8" chain on there and you'll be golden for the road (i wouldn't trust the 3/32" chains on a fixed on the road, but that might just be me).

Do any track cranksets come longer than 170mm? I use 1/8th chain and a track frame on the road and would like to try longer cranks (I'm over 6' 6"). The bottom bracket is pretty tall and I use Speedplays which provide plenty of clearance too.

Or alternatively does anyone know of some long (175mm +) road cranks that would take 144mm BCD rings?

I am not aware of any "Track" cracks that are longer than 170mm other than older campy 144 bcd road cranks. You will probably pay a premium for them as you will be bidding against collectors. You could use any longer 130 bcd road crank and put the appropriate chainring on and probably be happy enough. Just be carefull in the corners especially on off camber roads. There is one corner that I take at speed which is off camber and I can "almost' feel the pavement with the 165mm cranks I run. Longer cranks would just about put the finish to me at that place in the road unless I slowed down and sat up on the bike. good luck.


fixedgearhead

Business cycles (www.businesscycles.com) lists Sugino 75's (144 bcd) and Miche Primato Pistas (135 bcd) at 175mm.

Jim

I have been running 3/32" on all of my bikes for about 20 years fixed. It is the kind for use on 5-6-7-8 speed chain and not the 9-10 speed. Actually I have been using Sram PC-48 for years now and it is the cheapest of the lot. I just change it when it reaches the maximum stretch on the chain wear checker gauge. Never had a problem and never had a chain break. I think the only problem I have heard of is running 9-10 speed chain on a fixed gear bike. John Dacy at Business Cycles, somebody who sees a lot of track and fixed gear work at his shop, says they are not strong enough to handle the loading that fixed gear produces. I think that Track bike riders on the velodrome are the most conservative of riders when it comes to equipment and that probably accounts for the continued use of 1/8 chain. there is, in my opinion , no reason to fear 3/32" if you choose the heavier type. The chain itself is lighter and the components are lighter also. Not by much, but what the hey, every little ounce helps. Let's admit it, we are all probably weight weenies to a degree.

fixedgearhead

hehe...fixedgearhead. as it stands, both of my track drivetrains are set up for 1/8". i have a 3/32 cog on the rear of one of my bikes, but the chainring is 1/8...soooo...

a former friend had a campy track crank that was 175. he hated it. the toe strap overlap was a huge issue, and i think in the short time i knew him he had pedal struck at least twice. last i heard he's living in atlanta.

Atlanta. Nice flat territory to ride in. No pedal strike there.

fixedgearhead

They're also usually a lot easier to set up as far as achieving correct chainline, especially on a track frame. I've used road cranks on both track frames and road frames and it usually required a little trial & error as far as b/b spindle length, ring size, ring in or out of the spider arm, clearance, etc.... Track specific cranksets are more expensive but makes setting up a whole lot easier.

George

Thanks, George and all. I figured since I hope to built up a track frame I figured I might as well use a trank crank. Except that they are harder to find and are more expensive. The project is going slowly, so I might as well cruise ebay for the the time being. Choose two out of three: price, availabilty, free of hassel.

So I'm assuming with a 3/32" drivetrain I'd be using sora steel 8s rings instead of the 9/10s rings I have on the road crank I was going to use.

Actually the Sora chainring being made out of steel should definitely have the durability advantage over my aluminum 9s ring.

Looks like my drivetrain will be 3/32" with steel Sora Chainring (available at harris cyclery), PC-48 chain (I like the power link and I have a new one lying around anyway) and maybe a Dura Ace 3/32" cog unless someone suggests otherwise.

Some Gipiemme road cranks (nice finish) are 144BCD: http://allegro.pl/show_item.php?item=56263060 (the ones auctioned are 170mm but 175 mm version exisits as well). Old Campagnolo road standard was 144 as well.
Cheers,
v.

i thought the banking on a velodrome was to prevent pedal strike- keep the bike perpendicular to the track and therefore keep both pedals the greatest distance from the track .

i ran sora cranks on my first conversion which was a ss. the crenks seemed fine enough but thr chainring showed really worrying sighns of wear after about 6 months

i just got some Sugino RD's which are technically road cranks set up for fg use. they were like 80$ and i'm pleased enough with them that i can forgo some campy pistas for a while.

But if you're moving up the banking or diving down while racing you may no longer be aligned with the banking and pedal strike can occur. Seen this a lot at our local velodrome when people bring down their street fixies.

Pedal strike is less of an issue with proper track bikes and their higher bottom brackets. 172.5mm is a pretty common track crank length though obviously rider geometry is going to come into play.

Track cranks generally have a lower Q-factor (stability is not an issue given the smooth/predictable surface and the fact that you don't have to accommodate a double or triple chainring on a 126mm+ space rear triangle) and stiffer than road cranks.

laura,
are you building up a new frame? what about your bianchi pista? how long of a crank arm were you hoping to get? i just got some disgustingly hideous campagnolo record pista crankarms that i was either going to melt down for the life size bust of sally struthers i'm making or was going to install them on that dumb 'sea foam' bike i have. it's a close call... if i go for the latter, i'll have some 170mm bianchi badged track crank arms floating around soon. perhaps a trade or transaction will be in order.

i'm 99% sure that i've seen some older track cranksets (you'd have to ebay for them) that are even as long as 177.5

Someone revived an old thread. Now I'll be looking for appropriate cranks for the 'fixation.' But not so soon.

Is there a noticeable difference between the SRAM PC 48, 58, and 68's? I use the 58 per the advice of a friend that said it ran quieter than the 48...Anyone have any experience with more than one?