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Originally Posted by efi
(Post 8274450)
Thanks. I'll seek one out. I did see one out in California last summer but all the frames were $500+, which is way out of my price range. They were beautiful frames, but still... I'll look around here.
As the saying goes: Good Bikes Aren't Cheap. Cheap Bikes Aren't Good. When building bikes from the ground up you are gonna pay in either money OR time. Time hunting for the right part that's the right size for the right price. I've got well over $1,000 into my latest ride and I'm not done yet... http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3410/...968b7d7e0c.jpg |
The TA crank is probably worth what you payed for the frame. If it were a size bigger, I would beat you over the head for it. It will make a sweet conversion, as long as you can work around the french threading. Velo-Orange will be your friend, especially if you have a french threaded bottom bracket.
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Originally Posted by carleton
(Post 8273978)
My unsolicited suggestion if you are building a fixed gear would be to start with a track specific frame which will eliminate chainline and dropout issues. There are lots of beautiful old and new track frames out there.
OP, next time you are checking out a used frame, look for cracks in the paint around the head tube. Specifically, check for cracked paint on the top side of the top tube and down tube directly behind the head tube lugs because this usually indicates a crash. If you don't know how to look for these things, do not buy used stuff off craigslist because you are going to get screwed sooner or later. |
Originally Posted by PunctualAlex
(Post 8280154)
OP, next time you are checking out a used frame, look for cracks in the paint around the head tube. Specifically, check for cracked paint on the top side of the top tube and down tube directly behind the head tube lugs because this usually indicates a crash. If you don't know how to look for these things, do not buy used stuff off craigslist because you are going to get screwed sooner or later.
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i swear, no one researches anything ever.
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Originally Posted by PunctualAlex
(Post 8280154)
chainline has nothing to do with the frame, it depends on the rear wheel, crank, and bottom bracket.
Originally Posted by PunctualAlex
(Post 8280154)
Also, "track specific" frames will have track geometry and won't be drilled for brakes and will generally make a miserable road-going fixed-gear for a first-time rider.
That being said, if he's going to replace the BB and the cranks and chainring...then all he's got is a used frame, fork, and headset. Everything else will have to be purchased a-la-carte. My point is that there are so many track/fixed/SS frames being manufactured these days (seems that every major and manufacturer makes one). Just start there, ride today and eliminate the wait and high expense. THAT is good advice for a first-time rider. Save the project for your #2 bike. |
Originally Posted by carleton
(Post 8281970)
road bikes generally have 130mm rear dropout spacing. Track bikes have 120mm rear dropout spacing.
in this case, chainline isn't an issue. |
Build your own bike! It's way more satisfying!
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