Worldsport SS conversion questions
07-29-09, 12:05 PM
#1
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Worldsport SS conversion questions
Hey all, I've learned a butt load since joining this forum. Pretty sweet.
I said "eff it" and decided to go against having my LBS help me and I bought some tools (chain tool, chain whip, lock ring tool) and went ahead on stripping my 90's Schwinn Worldsport for single speed conversion.
I have a few questions and need some advice:
I removed my smaller chain ring off the spider and now my stack bolts are loose. I was thinking about filing them down to size but I heard the original Shimano stack bolts are crap. Any recommendations on bang for buck priced chain ring bolts? (BTW, any work arounds to using a stack bolt tool?) OR should I remove my 52t-53t (gotta check size, at work...) crank set and opt for a brand new single speed crank set? I want to do this as cheaply as possible...
I cracked a link in my chain while shortening it so I might as well get a new one. I'm a newbie when it comes to new parts so if you guys got any decently priced recommendations, holla!
I'm also going to opt for a new single speed cog as I've heard the original cog isn't so hot for SS use.
I saw a few SS kits out there but I'm not exactly sure what to choose. I'm going for a 19t cog.
I have a Shimano hyperglide cassette if that helps.
Basically, if anyone has any decently priced rec's for:
Stack Bolts
Cranksets
SS kits
and possible tools needed I would really appreciate it. I used the search function and read Sheldon Brown's site but the internet has a lot of hidden deals that a lot of you come across and I would love to get some knowledgeable info instead of second guessing myself.
Thanks dood.
I can't wait to start riding this beast...I wanna get some new wheels later down the line as well.
I said "eff it" and decided to go against having my LBS help me and I bought some tools (chain tool, chain whip, lock ring tool) and went ahead on stripping my 90's Schwinn Worldsport for single speed conversion.
I have a few questions and need some advice:
I removed my smaller chain ring off the spider and now my stack bolts are loose. I was thinking about filing them down to size but I heard the original Shimano stack bolts are crap. Any recommendations on bang for buck priced chain ring bolts? (BTW, any work arounds to using a stack bolt tool?) OR should I remove my 52t-53t (gotta check size, at work...) crank set and opt for a brand new single speed crank set? I want to do this as cheaply as possible...
I cracked a link in my chain while shortening it so I might as well get a new one. I'm a newbie when it comes to new parts so if you guys got any decently priced recommendations, holla!
I'm also going to opt for a new single speed cog as I've heard the original cog isn't so hot for SS use.
I saw a few SS kits out there but I'm not exactly sure what to choose. I'm going for a 19t cog.
I have a Shimano hyperglide cassette if that helps.
Basically, if anyone has any decently priced rec's for:
Stack Bolts
Cranksets
SS kits
and possible tools needed I would really appreciate it. I used the search function and read Sheldon Brown's site but the internet has a lot of hidden deals that a lot of you come across and I would love to get some knowledgeable info instead of second guessing myself.
Thanks dood.
I can't wait to start riding this beast...I wanna get some new wheels later down the line as well.
07-29-09, 12:15 PM
#2
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I've done the same thing with my cranks for an inexpensive conversion. What I did for the stack bolts (assuming you mean the chainring bolts) is use some BMX-type chainring bolts. You can get a set on ebay for less than $10: https://cgi.ebay.com/FIXED-GEAR-SINGL...d=p3286.c0.m14
This avoids for the time you having to get a new crankset. TIP: if you have trouble getting the right chainline, try mounting the chainring on the inside of the crank...worked for me. And you'll get as many opinions as people on which crankset to get.
I'm sure there's many other kits, but I'm looking into the VeloSolo kit (google it).
Good luck & have fun.
This avoids for the time you having to get a new crankset. TIP: if you have trouble getting the right chainline, try mounting the chainring on the inside of the crank...worked for me. And you'll get as many opinions as people on which crankset to get.
I'm sure there's many other kits, but I'm looking into the VeloSolo kit (google it).
Good luck & have fun.
07-29-09, 12:47 PM
#3
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Thanks Tbone, those chainring bolts look good enough. I like the VeloSolo kit too...are they only in the UK?
07-29-09, 02:10 PM
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if you have a newer shimano cassette system, then this should work, if you're close to a performance store then it comes in under 20 bucks (well, plus tax)
https://www.performancebike.com/bikes..._1031512_-1___
kmc multispeed chains are pretty good. chain is chain. I also use some shimano hg70 chain that was a bit more but was on sale, seems to work like chain. I don't think it makes a difference unless it's super cheap (wear faster) or super expensive (lighter)
https://www.performancebike.com/bikes..._1031512_-1___
kmc multispeed chains are pretty good. chain is chain. I also use some shimano hg70 chain that was a bit more but was on sale, seems to work like chain. I don't think it makes a difference unless it's super cheap (wear faster) or super expensive (lighter)
07-29-09, 09:01 PM
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Thanks lupin, looks good.
I hit a bump in the project...A perty big bump actually!
The Schwinn would shift and ride flawlessly and smoooooth. I removed all of the components and noticed my large chain ring wasn't perfectly round, or 'true'? With that said, I shortened my stock chain and put it on my 19t cog. As I turned the crank, I get one spot that was tighter than most. When I would wind the crank the opposite way, the chain would get really tight and then pop back to normal. I decided to get a cheapo SunLite 1/8" chain (thicker than my stock chain) to start fresh.
I did exactly what I did with the new chain and then mounted it on my bike like normal. This time though, when I turned the crank, the wheel would spin like normal and then all of the sudden it would switch to the gear under the original...That and the rear wheel would be miss aligned...I tried aligning the wheel and then spinning the crank again and it would do the same thing...
I switched back to the stock chain and it seemed fine...I took it for a spin and gave it some man muscle and it popped back onto the other gear...I made sure to keep tension reasonably tight everytime so the only thing I can think of is the gear themselves aren't perfectly aligned with the chainring or my rear wheel is out of wack....
Any suggestions?
I hit a bump in the project...A perty big bump actually!
The Schwinn would shift and ride flawlessly and smoooooth. I removed all of the components and noticed my large chain ring wasn't perfectly round, or 'true'? With that said, I shortened my stock chain and put it on my 19t cog. As I turned the crank, I get one spot that was tighter than most. When I would wind the crank the opposite way, the chain would get really tight and then pop back to normal. I decided to get a cheapo SunLite 1/8" chain (thicker than my stock chain) to start fresh.
I did exactly what I did with the new chain and then mounted it on my bike like normal. This time though, when I turned the crank, the wheel would spin like normal and then all of the sudden it would switch to the gear under the original...That and the rear wheel would be miss aligned...I tried aligning the wheel and then spinning the crank again and it would do the same thing...
I switched back to the stock chain and it seemed fine...I took it for a spin and gave it some man muscle and it popped back onto the other gear...I made sure to keep tension reasonably tight everytime so the only thing I can think of is the gear themselves aren't perfectly aligned with the chainring or my rear wheel is out of wack....
Any suggestions?
07-29-09, 09:35 PM
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if you still have gears on the rear cassette the 1/8" chain won't fit. 1/8" can work on a 3/32" drivetrain if you have only one chainring and one cog/gear in the back. the 1/8" might not work so friendly with derailers either.
chain tension isn't as big of a deal with a coasting set up. that kit i linked you to has a sprung chain tensioner included, so you set tension to have a small amount of play at the tightest part of the chain, and the tensioner will take up slack elsewhere.
chain tension isn't as big of a deal with a coasting set up. that kit i linked you to has a sprung chain tensioner included, so you set tension to have a small amount of play at the tightest part of the chain, and the tensioner will take up slack elsewhere.
07-29-09, 09:56 PM
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if you still have gears on the rear cassette the 1/8" chain won't fit. 1/8" can work on a 3/32" drivetrain if you have only one chainring and one cog/gear in the back. the 1/8" might not work so friendly with derailers either.
chain tension isn't as big of a deal with a coasting set up. that kit i linked you to has a sprung chain tensioner included, so you set tension to have a small amount of play at the tightest part of the chain, and the tensioner will take up slack elsewhere.
chain tension isn't as big of a deal with a coasting set up. that kit i linked you to has a sprung chain tensioner included, so you set tension to have a small amount of play at the tightest part of the chain, and the tensioner will take up slack elsewhere.
I read that some multi chain ring cranks have a longer BB so putting the single chain ring in the inside of the spider may help out the alignment. I gotta try this out and see what happens...
