I don't know guys, I was messing with my seat a little, not entirely because of the handlebar discomfort issue (which only really seems to be an issue on my early morning commute while my body is still stiff), but also because I had a feeling I was not sitting over my cranks properly... I scooted the seat forward just a bit and now it feels much better in several aspects.

My legs feel better while pedaling (pedaling is more natural/easy), and I can get better leverage now for decelerating or skid stops.
I think I def had the seat too far back. So I wasn't adjusting the seat because of the handlebar issues, but it did end up helping that situation a little. Once my new stems shows up, I think it'll be perfect. I'll be going from +17, 90mm to a +35, 75mm.

As far as frame size goes, I know effective top tube length is the key measurement, but I only have about an inch of room as far as standover height. Maybe 3/4". So I don't think it's actually too small. I think I could do well with a 62cm but I think something like a 63cm would be too unwieldy and maybe even a bit too big. It's not like I'm out there riding a kids bike or something really odd/funny looking.
I know it looks funny because of the amount of seatpost showing, but I'm just such a tall wirey fellow. I'm all arms and legs. Like a spider, haha, so the bike is going to look like it's setup for too much reach and too much seatpost, but it suits me.

Maybe I'll ask my LBS next time I'm in. Maybe they can watch me ride or sit on it and tell me. I think that's a better indicator - seeing me actually ON the bike.

Or you could try this.

haha will do. Thanks for not doing the whole big schpeel with the gif and everytyhing. ;)

get fit
 

I think you need a professional to fit you. I have a VERY average build so I can get away with fit systems (although I know enough about what geo. works for me and there are between 40-400 bikes in most any shop that fit me for test rides). But don't guess, bikes are too expensive. You can spend a couple hundred on a professional fit but you shouldn't have to. You aren't a pro and don't need to spend hours on rollers tuning your seat position, you simply need a bike frame that fits your body. I bet a half-hour to an hour will get you where you need i.e., less than a benjamin. If you are building from scratch, that is the cost of the wrong stem. Bet wrong on the frame...epic fail.

And on your earlier query, yeah, looks like pretty relaxed geometry, and a lot of rake on the fork too, that has a significant affect on handling...with the benefit of more comfort. That said, larger frames will have slightly shallower angles, so YMMV.
Scrodzilla rides an EAI according to his sig, I do too. If he likes his half as much as I like mine that is a strong endorsement. If you want track-like geo. it's a solid choice but they aren't free either e.g., not a Chicago lock-up bike. EAI makes those frames in some pretty big sizes too. Clearances are extraordinarily tight (at least on the japanese flavor) if you build your own, though...I shaved mm to get as narrow a q-factor on my cranks as possible (something like a 107mm phil wood BB spindle) and had to have the shop dimple the chain stay to clear the chain ring.
ffDf: fatties DON'T fit fine ;-]

Hey all, I'm pretty new to the community and am in the market for my first single speed. After speaking with some friends and doing some research on my own, I've found a few possibilities. I'm hoping for your thoughts or other suggestions. I'm pretty set on single speed versus fixed gear.

Trek Earl
Schwinn Racer
Bianchi Via Veneto

I know that it's kind of a wide range of prices there, but that's a general feel for my budget. I figure the Schwinn would be the biggest value but I'm not sold on the coaster brakes and feel that paying some more at the start could defray some costs later. My friend has the Trek and said that he really enjoys it. The Bianchi is (from what I've heard) very high quality, but I'm worried that I'd be overpaying for something I could get an equivalent of for less.

If it helps, I'm located in nyc and will be using it primarily to commute between brooklyn and manhattan every day.

How does one go about replacing or what parts would I need to replace the stock handle-bars on a F44-relax?

also what 700cc28 tyre for commuting city?

this is where I would generally shop if it helps--- tokyofixedgear.com

Any input appreciated.

Overwhelmed is an understatement. I have been customizing my cars for about 8 years now, and I just jumped into singlespeed/fixed gear bikes without knowing a damn thing, but I am learning.

http://img204.imageshack.us/img204/6821/img0946fu.jpg

Picked up this 53cm '09 San Jose from a LBS (I'm 5'11" 150lbs). Guy I got it from is super cool and used to live in NY. Loaded it up with all sorts of goodies:

Origin 8 Tiki bars
700Cx18 (23C) 1/8" Tessa rimzos
CST czar Comp tires
FSA SL-K brakes (front and rear)
Currently running freewheel setup with 18t cog and Origin8 Beck130 42t chainring, but it has dat flippity floppity hub
TRP levers
Shimano 105 cranks

All in all, the bike is an absolute blast, but I do have some concerns.

I know that the favored gear inch number is 70-72 for a road bike, but unfortunately, I can't run anything bigger than a 42t on the San Jose frame without clearance issues. My question is, are there any remedies to the 42t chainring that could get me closer to an ideal number of gear inches? Better yet, is there some sort of way to space the drivetrain and be able to run a larger chainring/cog assembly?

TIA for any helpful response :thumb:

A 16t cog and you have the golden 69gi.
A 15 and you have a solid 73.6gi.


You have brakes, so I'd run the 15t.

Great! I have no need to be an out-of-control-hipster because I live in a really lame city where everybody is fat and nobody bikes, so running brakes and a 15-16t cog might be the best option, but damn that ish is gonna wear fast.

That was my primary concern. I am averaging ~10mi a day, so I wanted to prep the chainring/cog setup for the sense of wear.

I've been riding the same 15t cog for quite a while.
Probably have 5k miles on it.


Don't worry about wear.

I've been trying to pick out some shoes for riding flat pedals on fixed. I found some Chrome brand shoes, but can only seem to order them from the UK. They may work, but I'd like opinions on other brands. Maybe something with velcro instead of laces would be better?

You can buy Chrome shoes on Amazon, as well as directly from Chrome's site.

Try Zappos.com. Free shipping both ways so you can order several types and sizes to try them on then send back any that you don't want (and you have a year to return them if you're lazy). I ordered 15 pairs of shoes from them last week and kept one.

Regarding velcro, if you're using pedal straps I'd avoid it. The straps on the shoes run parallel to the straps on the pedals and they run into each other when you try to put your foot in.

The only size I saw on Amazon for the Chrome Kursk model was 6.5. The only model I saw my size in was this strange slip-on style. But I'd definitely like some suggestions from experienced riders as to what shoes they prefer.

I was running clipless pedals, but I'm getting tired of wearing those shoes and changing shoes when I get to the office. The straps don't really appeal to me so I thought I'd look into good shoes for flats. I'll check out Zappos. Do you have any brand/model suggestions? Or any to particularly avoid? Thanks.

Wait, are you saying you're gonna ride without retention? You're on your own there. I wear Adidas Shell tops and Chrome Southsides cause they hold up to toe clips well. If you're not using clips or straps, your shoes don't matter that much. A stiff sole's all you need.

What the best Chain Tensioner for the money out there?

Soulcraft - http://www.soulcraftbikes.com/goods.php?category_id=5 $90.00

Misfit - http://www.psyclestore.com/products....peed-Tensioner $33.00


Rohloff - http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...&category=2622 $85.00


Melvin - http://www.paulcomp.com/melvin.html $90.00


Rennen - http://www.benscycle.net/index.php?m...541c123abf75ca $49.00

i used the fit calculator at competitivecyclist.com (via the link Scrod posted above). i'm 5' 7.25" with a 29" inseam and it's giving me a "competitive fit" steat tube (c-c) range of 47.7 - 48.2cm

does that sound wrong or weird?

hey guys im new to the forum and i love the site so far but i do have a few questions to ask. my neighbor has a gmc denali thats he's giving me for doing him a favor and i would like to convert it to a ss, im just wondering how much would it cost to convert this bike into a ss?

If you just leave it in one gear it would cost nothing.

You could pay $10 for a chain breaker, see if you can find magic ratio, remove the derailers and have a slightly more single speedy SS.

You could go full bore and spend more than the MSRP of a new Denali if you really wanna do it up.

lester of puppets where might i get the parts to make it a ss at. i dont need the top of the line parts because this is going to be a daily bike just around nyc.

Hey I have an origin8 Cutler and I want to upgrade my crank set on them but I have no clue how to tell what would fit and what wouldn't any help would be much appreciated.

Also suggestions for a new crank set that would fit would be great as well.

That bike looks great. I'm surprised you can only fit a 42T chainring, though. Are you mounting the chainring on the front or the back of the crank arms? That will have an effect. If it's already on the front and it still barely clears, you may be able to bring the whole crank out a bit further with a longer bottom bracket spindle, say for instance by going from a 103 to a 108. But this can cause chainline issues and it will bring your feet further out from the bike, so those are things you have to consider. It's probably best to leave it alone unless you have money and time to burn.

http://www.complex.com/rides/2012/05...kes-under-500/

For future reference.

Okay here goes my question/s...

Any thoughts pro/com on the Fuji Track Classic? (buying new maybe...)

I was also wondering something...I have arthritis in my hands and neck. Doesn't really bother me much on my CX bike because I have a carbon fork on it. I'm wondering is there a good carbon fork that I could put on the Fuji Track Classic? Any recommendations? I wonder about the shock and awe My hands will get, especially as it starts to get cold with a steel fork.

As a matter of fact, I don't recall the last time I didn't have a carbon fork...

The Fuji Track Classic is 100% cro mo.

It could be argued that steel is more road dampening that carbon.