Fixed Gear Cog Recommendations
 

Hey,
I was wondering if you guys had any suggestions for a good fixed gear cog. I had a new IRO Mark V built up with a flip flop hub, and decided to keep it as a single speed for the rest of winter as I haven't had too much experience riding fixed. Plus, it allowed me a bit extra cash to spent on the rest of the build not worrying about a fixed cog at the time. But now with spring around the corner, I thought it might be a good time to throw one on there, but I don't really know where to start, or if there is really much of a difference.
Right now I have a White Industries 17t freewheel, and a 48t Sugino Messenger crankset (if that matters??). It's primarily just for commuting but I bomb a huge hill on my way to work, and then have to fight back up it on the way home, so suggestions on ratios would be much appreciated as well, thanks guys!

I would try one that is the same as the cog that you have been riding SS... if you are concerned about control and learning brakeless deceleration and skidding make it a size or two higher than what you are used to as SS... I bought a replacement wheel recently that just so happened to have an 18 on it when I was used to riding a 16 SS... Was cool for learning to stop, but is really way too slow for me even after just a couple of days... I just ordered a lock ring tool and a a couple of smaller cogs!
Also, if you dont have toeclips... you will want them with fixed gear.
Best...jake

Dura Ace cogs deliver some serious bang for the buck, their quality is very high and the price is far less than many boutique cogs.

Surly cogs are also good (and have gotten better) but they are damn pricey.

I have been running some Formula cogs for quiet some time and they have been performing really well and they cost < $10.00.

My favourite cogs (1/8 only) cost me 0.00 but getting those requires one to have a parts bin full of old coaster hubs with their beautifully cast threaded cogs and lockrings... (modern coaster hubs have a splined cog).

Thanks for the info!
Yeah i definitely will need some form of foot retention, but i guess one step at a time. Excuse my inexperience but what does a lock ring tool help you do? switch out different cogs easier? or is it just something that you need for a fixed cog period? But that sounds like a good idea going a few sizes higher, thanks for the help.

Euro-Asia Imports makes some excellent cogs as well as Phil Wood. Recommending a proper gear ratio is almost impossible. There are many factors that you have to take into account. Tire size, crank size, terrain that you ride, your level of fitness and what you want out of a fixed gear bike.

Personally I ride a 46x18 ratio. I like to spin and this ratio allows me to do so while minimizing the possibility of spinning out.

Yeah I totally understand, but I figure if people like you kinda help me out with info on what they ride I can hopefully make a bit better judgement on what will work for my setup. So at this point anything helps for I am pretty new, so thanks for the info. I think I will probably try an 18 for my setup. I dunno, I think I might go pick something up today.

You'll have to judge the gear ratio for yourself, but as far as brand of cog goes...I've tried Dura Ace, Miche, Surly, Soma, EAI, bolt-on Tomicogs, and a variety of cheap stamped cogs. The cheap stamped ones I have tried wear faster so I would avoid those, but the CNCed cogs are all basically the same. Look around the web and find the best deal.

What difference would you notice between a good cog and a cheap cog? I've always just grabbed "the 30 dollar one" when buying cogs and it's worked fine so far so I've had no real desire to try a more expensive one.

Dura Ace is only 16T and under so it's rather limiting. Surly (new style with holes) is the most silent cog I've used out of DA, EAI, and Formula.

Thats funny. My surly cog (also the new style) was by far the noisiest cog I have ever tried, but there are a lot of other variables that determine DT noise, including chain, chainline, type and amount of lube, state of wear of the DT, vibration resonating properties of the frame, fork and wheels, etc.

By comparison, the differences in tooth shape between different brand cogs (when new) are minute, and, I am willing to bet, are not a major contributor to variation in drive train noise.

I've always grabbed the cyclepro "11 dollar one" from the lbs... has served me well for many months and miles of riding.

imo, a cog is a cog. If it's installed correctly, it won't damage your hub.

If you have a money tree get one of these.

http://www.peterwhitecycles.com/fixed.asp

+1

EAi are king never had one on my own cycle, can't justify the price if you can go for it, i have over 10,000Km on a DA that still has life left in it, it's aged like wine, getting smoother with age. Formula before it and was ok but i wanted another tooth. in the end they all Cog but i would Stick to Dura-Ace unless getting an EAI

Not correct, crappy cogs are crappy in every way. Run a $5 cog on a say Miche hub and dont' be surprised if you run into problems. Dura ace cogs at $20-$25 MSRP really is a no brainer.

i had a dura ace 3/32 for a while and it was great, albeit a little noisy. then, when i upgraded to 1/8, i got a cheap surly cog. that thing was noisy as f*ck. even with a brand new and well-lubed chain it was super loud. now i have a superstar and it is like BUTTER. and if deciding between the superstar and gold pro, get the superstar. the gold pro isn't really worth the extra ~$60.

superstar + super toughness = silence.

Has anyone tried the Milwaukee cogs from benscycle?

For the price Formula cogs seem to be fairly well made and I have had no issues with them... I always check the threading on cogs and hubs as even the best of them can make errors.

I have run Formula, DA, Sub 11, Surly, and some vintage cogs and not had any issues with any of them... stripped threads are usually a result of a poorly installed cog / lockring or a combination of this and really poor quality parts.

If your lockring fails and that cog comes loose it can generate a great deal of shearing force to the hub threads... it is pretty much essential to own a lockring tool and regularly check that things are snug.

And like Op said... for 25.00 the DA cogs are a no brainer.

Besides being defective (which any product may be), tell me one way.


My "crappy cog" hasn't given me one problem what so ever, on two different wheels sets. My room mate runs the same cog on his setup, for just as long. Zero problems, both cogs were installed correctly.

I don't like it when people don't speak from experience, but rather heresay, merely repeating information memorized from previous posts on a forum. You get what you pay for, true, but when it comes to cogs, the **** isn't rocket science. They are just little pieces of metal.

In Op's defense... his delivery might be a little harsh but he knows his stuff.

euroasia superstars are the tops.

If I was going to drop $70.00 on a cog I would go with a Phil Wood.

Milwaukee
 

they're good, no noticeable issues with it.

The best cog I have used and still do is Milwaukee cogs.

they ought to try their hand at a higher tooth count.