Crank size for a newer rider?
03-11-09, 06:53 PM
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Crank size for a newer rider?
Hey guys,
I would still consider myself a newer rider, especially with fixed gears. I currently have a 47t chainring and a 16t cog. From what I am told this is a somewhat "beefy" gear for a newer rider. I am considering changing to a 44t chainring until I get a bit more experience. Would you guys suggest this, or just suck it up and ride the 47t? Also, since the 44t will be somewhat temporary, will an Origin 8 chainring hold up to a few months of riding?
I would still consider myself a newer rider, especially with fixed gears. I currently have a 47t chainring and a 16t cog. From what I am told this is a somewhat "beefy" gear for a newer rider. I am considering changing to a 44t chainring until I get a bit more experience. Would you guys suggest this, or just suck it up and ride the 47t? Also, since the 44t will be somewhat temporary, will an Origin 8 chainring hold up to a few months of riding?
03-11-09, 06:54 PM
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depends on your leg length:
https://www.cyclefitcentre.com/pdf%20...%206_final.pdf
https://www.roble.net/marquis/crank.length
https://www.cyclefitcentre.com/pdf%20...%206_final.pdf
https://www.roble.net/marquis/crank.length
03-11-09, 07:07 PM
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^ Didn't read the OP.
If the gearing feels fine for you, it is fine for you. One school of thoughts says that your cadence should be above 60 rpm most of the time.
If the gearing feels fine for you, it is fine for you. One school of thoughts says that your cadence should be above 60 rpm most of the time.
03-11-09, 07:11 PM
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^ The OP is a n00b and doesn't know some of the terminology. Judging by the content in the actual post, we're talking chainring sizes.
03-11-09, 08:51 PM
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I say just ride it and take it slow. spend money on the bike later on when you figure out what you want/don't want.
03-11-09, 08:55 PM
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keep the 47 chainring, get a 19t cog. keep the 16 for when you want to go fast.
do you have a brake? get a brake.
do you have a brake? get a brake.
03-11-09, 10:02 PM
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Replacing cogs is far cheaper than replacing chainrings. Try an 18, I ride 48x18 and it's a really good starting point IMO
03-12-09, 01:03 PM
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Thanks for all the responses. My apologies on the misleading title, I meant to put "chainring size for a newer rider?" That was not me being a noob, it was the alcohol, hah.
Anyways, the gear does feel a little tough at times, especially on hills. I think a smaller chainring might be a good idea for a few months.
About the cog being cheaper than the chainring, I found Origin 8 chainrings on ebay for $20 shipped. From my searches for cogs, I am looking at about the same price for either one. Right now I have a no name chainring, so the Origin 8 would be a step up if anything.
Anyways, the gear does feel a little tough at times, especially on hills. I think a smaller chainring might be a good idea for a few months.
About the cog being cheaper than the chainring, I found Origin 8 chainrings on ebay for $20 shipped. From my searches for cogs, I am looking at about the same price for either one. Right now I have a no name chainring, so the Origin 8 would be a step up if anything.
03-15-09, 06:01 PM
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Two cogs?
I ride in the S.C. Upstate, which has rolling and steep (5% grades). I have a 46 chainring, with a 17t on one side and 14t on the other. I just flip the rear wheel depending on the terrain. I agree with the above suggestion about riding in a gear that keeps your cadence up; I ride in the 90 RPMs.
03-15-09, 06:06 PM
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I run 44/15 now (which apparently gives the "recommended" ratio for urban setting of 2.8). It really depends on your fitness. If you find your current setting too hard, then get a bigger rear cog, if not, stick with what you got
At least thats what I think
At least thats what I think
