Removing rear wheel when tension is too high.
#1
Know Thyself
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 31
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
Removing rear wheel when tension is too high.
My rear hub is slipping and I need to tighten it with a chain whip. When I tried removing the rear wheel (first time removing rear wheel on new track bike) i couldn't remove the chain from the rear hub because the chain is so tightly wrapped around it.
Are there any tools I need to purchase to remove the chain or any advice?
Are there any tools I need to purchase to remove the chain or any advice?
#2
Banned.
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Oregon State University
Posts: 96
Bikes: 2004 Bianchi Pista (Gunmetal/Black)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I'm guessing your dropouts aren't horizontal? If they are...you just loosen the locknuts and move the whole wheel forward, loosening the tension. That's what I do on my bike.
But chances are, if it was that obvious you wouldn't be asking.
But chances are, if it was that obvious you wouldn't be asking.
#6
artesc all the way.
Join Date: Sep 2008
Location: Boston, Ma
Posts: 263
Bikes: 2008 Redline 925 (bleh!)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
#9
Member
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Newark, NJ
Posts: 27
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
My roommate is a bike mechanic and advises against using a master link, as he himself has snapped two. Granted, his chainline was far from perfect, but the fact still remains that twice it was the master link that gave out first. Perhaps with a decent chainline this problem doesn't exist.
#10
Know Thyself
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Portland, Oregon
Posts: 31
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
So attaching a master link to my chain is a bad idea and I should invest the five dollars in a chain breaker and that means every time I need to remove the back wheel I would have to break a link off of my chain or just add another link to my chain so the tension isn't as high.
#11
Senior Member
Join Date: May 2008
Location: Davis/Lafayette, CA
Posts: 2,014
Bikes: too many
Mentioned: 1 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
So attaching a master link to my chain is a bad idea and I should invest the five dollars in a chain breaker and that means every time I need to remove the back wheel I would have to break a link off of my chain or just add another link to my chain so the tension isn't as high.
#12
I just wanna ride
Join Date: Oct 2008
Location: Chico Califo
Posts: 1,155
Bikes: 2013 BMC Impec
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 1 Time
in
1 Post
loosen the rear wheel, slide it all the way forward, push the chain over with your finger and spin the crank slowly. This will take your chain off the chainring and give you more than enough slack to get the rear wheel out
#13
.
Join Date: Aug 2005
Location: Rocket City, No'ala
Posts: 12,763
Bikes: 2014 Trek Domane 5.2, 1985 Pinarello Treviso, 1990 Gardin Shred, 2006 Bianchi San Jose
Mentioned: 3 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 62 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 28 Times
in
13 Posts
Notice he said "spin the crank slowly". Watch those fingers or the chain and cog may take them off.
#15
aka mattio
Wait, wait. There's an easier way, really. There is almost definitely no need to break your chain or remove your chainring. Seriously.
If you can't derail the chain easily with your fingers because the hub sits too far forward in the track ends (note that they are not dropouts), you can still get the chain off.
1. Loosen nuts.
2. Use a thin wrench or anything to put some light lateral pressure on a chain while you spin the wheel slowly. Basically pretend it's a derailleur and "shift" the chain off of the cog.
3. Remove wheel.
Pretty much what stryper said.
When you get the chain back on do the same thing in reverse, sort of. Get the chain on one tooth or the cog and spin the wheel so that it's re-railed. I have to do this at the track when I put my riding-home gear on, 50x17 (from 50-15, my racing gear), which, for my chain and my fairly short trackends on my TK2, is kind of a tight fit.
But really, imagine you're in a situation where, say, you need to fix a flat tire. If your approach necessitates taking your chain apart or removing a chainring, then you're doing something wrong.
If you can't derail the chain easily with your fingers because the hub sits too far forward in the track ends (note that they are not dropouts), you can still get the chain off.
1. Loosen nuts.
2. Use a thin wrench or anything to put some light lateral pressure on a chain while you spin the wheel slowly. Basically pretend it's a derailleur and "shift" the chain off of the cog.
3. Remove wheel.
Pretty much what stryper said.
When you get the chain back on do the same thing in reverse, sort of. Get the chain on one tooth or the cog and spin the wheel so that it's re-railed. I have to do this at the track when I put my riding-home gear on, 50x17 (from 50-15, my racing gear), which, for my chain and my fairly short trackends on my TK2, is kind of a tight fit.
But really, imagine you're in a situation where, say, you need to fix a flat tire. If your approach necessitates taking your chain apart or removing a chainring, then you're doing something wrong.
#16
Senior Member
My roommate is a bike mechanic and advises against using a master link, as he himself has snapped two. Granted, his chainline was far from perfect, but the fact still remains that twice it was the master link that gave out first. Perhaps with a decent chainline this problem doesn't exist.
Repeatedly removing and resinstalling your chain without a master link is not a very smart thing to do. Reinserting a pin with a chain tool can damage the link. Use the masterlink...its much safer, that is, assuming the bike was built by a competent person. Your roommate is not qualified to be a bike mechanic, apparently. He should fix his chainline and also learn how to install a chain. Masterlinks can handle as much tension as any other link.
#17
matters cryptozoological
Join Date: Dec 2007
Posts: 149
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
My rear hub is slipping and I need to tighten it with a chain whip. When I tried removing the rear wheel (first time removing rear wheel on new track bike) i couldn't remove the chain from the rear hub because the chain is so tightly wrapped around it.
Are there any tools I need to purchase to remove the chain or any advice?
Are there any tools I need to purchase to remove the chain or any advice?
#18
coasterbrakelockup
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: parts unknown
Posts: 824
Bikes: surly steamroller w/coaster brake, electra single speed cruiser, specialized rockhopper commuter, no-name single speed folder, 700c ultimate wheel, 24" unicycle, specialized bmx lsd, single seat single speed huffy tandem, pink upsidedown parade bike
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
There's an extensive thread about that here:
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/303648-breaking-chain-without-chain-tool.html
https://www.bikeforums.net/bicycle-mechanics/303648-breaking-chain-without-chain-tool.html
#19
Bicycle Repair Man !!!
Running a masterlink should not cause a problem if it is properly installed and the chain line is straight... 3/32 chain has a little more lateral flex than most 1/8 chain and can handle a less than perfect chain line quite well.
1/8 chain is stiffer laterally and a poor chain line puts undue stress on the chain which can cause it to break under load, especially if the chain is also too tight.
1/8 chain is stiffer laterally and a poor chain line puts undue stress on the chain which can cause it to break under load, especially if the chain is also too tight.
#20
Old fart
Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Appleton WI
Posts: 24,784
Bikes: Several, mostly not name brands.
Mentioned: 153 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 3587 Post(s)
Liked 3,400 Times
in
1,934 Posts
FWIW, none of my 1/8" chains are riveted; is riveting only done on modern narrow road (3/32") chains?
#21
sucker for lugs
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Denver
Posts: 364
Bikes: Shogun 800 (had to cull the herd)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
My roommate is a bike mechanic and advises against using a master link, as he himself has snapped two. Granted, his chainline was far from perfect, but the fact still remains that twice it was the master link that gave out first. Perhaps with a decent chainline this problem doesn't exist.
The only riveted chains I've ever seen are the 9/10 speed chains, which are even narrower than 3/32"
#22
extra bitter
Unless I'm missing something here, you've got your dimensions confused. 3/32" describes the internal width of the chain, and it does not differ between chains for 9/10 vs lower geared cassettes. The external width is narrower on a 9/10 chain, but that's not part of the 3/32" specification.
#23
can I has barspinz?
Join Date: Apr 2009
Posts: 43
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
I have to deflate the rear tire in order to get all the way forward into the track end to get enough slack in the chain to get the rear wheel off. Clearance is very tight, as my chain is bit short after getting a little over-zealous with the chainbreaker and wrecking a few links. :I
#24
Senior Member
Yes, it can be done on a traditional pinned chain, but you still run the risk of damaging the sideplate, which could lead to failure. I've seen it happen more than once. You have to be very careful and drive the pin in straight and then look very carefully to make sure you did not bend, distort, crack or other wise damage it. The master-link is much safer and easier.
#25
Banned.
Join Date: Apr 2009
Location: Oregon State University
Posts: 96
Bikes: 2004 Bianchi Pista (Gunmetal/Black)
Mentioned: 0 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 0 Post(s)
Likes: 0
Liked 0 Times
in
0 Posts
This thread is full of failure. Why can't you just post a picture of the ordeal so we can help you more efficiently?