http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l1...S26/photo2.jpg

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l1...S26/photo3.jpg

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l199/ALaS26/photo.jpg

http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l1...S26/photo4.jpg

Hope these help..

you need a shorter bb the spindle ont he right side needs to be shorter do you know what size bb is in there????
also your cranks might hit your chain stay a little if this happens just file it a little with a fine file just enough so it clears and keep your spider and ring clean so it doesn't bind on you it will be tight but it should work

I would try a 110 or 107mm spindle also your cranks may not be on all the way

And here is how much my BB sticks out:

Drive side:
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l1...26/photo-1.jpg

Non Drive:
http://i96.photobucket.com/albums/l1...6/photo2-1.jpg

The BB size is 68x107mm english.

ok try puttin the ring on the inside it will look like hell but should solve the issue

n/m that is stupid there is no tab
try a 103mm bb it may just work or you could get a 3/16 bmx chain and let it ride

Spill it, mister!

refresh the page

Looking at your pics 1) your chain looks too tight 2) you can't move your crank inboard any more or move your chainring to the inside because it will hit the chainstay. What you can do is change the axle spacers on your wheel to move the cog outboard, but you will then have to re-center (re-true) the wheel.

Is that possible with my crankset? It's an alien crankset, and it says to use a 107mm BB for this style of crankset (style 2) Here's a link: http://www.alienbikes.com/gear.php

Okay, I'm getting many solutions! Which is best to do? Those spacers, are they expensive?

edit: I read the link, it says for a 42mm chain line.. What does that mean?

fixed it
I would get better cranks honestly something in the el cheapo bmx variety and a ring or something like the kazane I run em and they work well for cheap cranks 144bcd and everythinghttp://keirinculture.com/store//cata...php?cPath=2_29

I am confused by the info but the re dish and spacer will work you will have to pay to have the whell redished and trued

Have you tried loosening the chain yet?

The LBS should have axle spacers in different sizes. Basically, if the chainline is off by 1/8", you remove 1/8" from the right side and add 1/8" to the left side, which moves the whole wheel 1/8" to the right. The shop should not charge you more than a couple of bucks to swap the spacers, but could charge you $10 to true the wheel. You can try to do it yourself; buy a spoke nipple wrench and tighten all the spokes on the left side 1/4 turn, then see if the wheel is centered in the frame. If it is still offset to the right, tighten all the left side spokes another 1/4 turn until the wheel is re-centered. The wheel may end up not being perfectly true, but should be good enough. The only way to get it perfect is to put it in a truing stand.

Alright guys thanks for the info and sugestions, I'll let you guys know what I end up doing.

Your chain looks like it has a stiff link from one of your pictures. If it's a chain with a master link, pull the chain of the bike, look for tight links, and slacken them up with your chain breaker, and reinstall with good tension; the maximum tension should be in the part of the crank rotation where the cranks are positioned in the tight spot.

I think your chainline looks fine. A 2 or 3 millimeter margin of error sometimes is something you have to live with. The chainline on my DJ and my SS 29er are slightly off.

Re-centering your back wheel should be the last ditch effort. If you do decide to do it, one can easily true a wheel within the chainstays of the frame. I've hand built and trued 4 different sets of wheels and I never used a truing stand.

Don't think about messing with the BB or rear wheel until you knock out the easy solutions first.

My chain does have a master link. I don't have a chain breaker, but my friend does. Can you explain exactly what I have to do to slacken them up with the tool? Should I lubricate it again too? I'll try to do the easiest solutions first. Thanks a lot for the help!

You should read more, and ask questions less. Google "loosen stiff links"

And how would we know if you need to lube your chain again?

also get a chain breaker of your own and get rid of the master link they are bad news and fail causing nastiness

The same can be said about not using a master link and weakening the chain by removing and reinserting pins.

A decent chain will come with a decent master link. A decent chain breaker in skilled hands can provide a solid chain that is strong...

I've never had a failed master link in my life; my Shadow half link chain broke before any of my powerlink chains. Maybe you're thinking of single half links in a standard chain?

Depending on the model chain, the master links are different. What chain do you have?

Once you figure out how to get the chain off, and if it isn't new, you can give it a good cleaning/lubing and locate any stubborn links. When you get yourself a chainbreaker, there are different steps in the tool; one allows you to push a pin on either side of the link to loosen them up, and the other to push the pin all the way through to remove links. Read the directions here, this is the same handy little tool I use:

http://parktool.com/products/detail.asp?cat=5&item=CT-5

Thank you very much.

It's a KMC Z chain 1/8" bushingless with a masterlink.

I have had the e clip from a kmc pop off and it wasn't fun thank god it was on a single speed with brakes

Yea it looks stupid and there is no tab, but I have been running my chainring on the inside of the spider for a while now and it works fine. Better than spending money on a new BB.

My chain's master link has popped off before, but that's because I don't think I put it on correctly.

Is this what your masterlink looks like?

http://www.jensonusa.com/product/ch/CH409Z20BLK.jpg

If so, it's pretty self explanatory on how to remove it. Remove retaining clip, pop off the plate, remove chain.

Those Z chains are pretty crappy from what I've heard. I always use the KOOL chains on my SS/fixed bikes. Heavy, sure, but damn near bomb proof and cheap.