How do you get your fork threaded?
07-31-09, 07:10 PM
#26
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I wasn't talking about the threads I was talking about a butted light weight steerer made for threadless not threaded
you see the over all wall thickness can be thinner with threadless because of the way the stem clamps one
but with a quill you need a thicker tube to handle the single point at which pressure is applied
the op had a threadless fork threaded get it
you see the over all wall thickness can be thinner with threadless because of the way the stem clamps one
but with a quill you need a thicker tube to handle the single point at which pressure is applied
the op had a threadless fork threaded get it
08-01-09, 07:45 AM
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The post I was replying to (directly above mine) said that he asked specifically for an un-threaded fork when he got his new bike so that he could "chop and thread for a good fit".
In truth, aftermarket threading is risky at best. If the fork is so awesome that you have to have it on this exact bike, why would you risk ruining it? And if it's not such a big deal if it gets ruined, it can't be that awesome of a fork and you should probably find something else.
In truth, aftermarket threading is risky at best. If the fork is so awesome that you have to have it on this exact bike, why would you risk ruining it? And if it's not such a big deal if it gets ruined, it can't be that awesome of a fork and you should probably find something else.
08-01-09, 10:19 AM
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I think this whole discussion is off base. The maximum bending stress in a steerer tube occurs at the bottom, where the tube is connected to the fork crown, and that's where failures occur. The bending stress decreases up the tube, and is essentially zero at the location of the top headset bearings. Both the wedge in a quill stem and the clamp on a threadless stem are located far away from the high stress point. Does that mean I would recommend trying to add threads to a threadless steerer? No, but not because of safety, but because it is not cost-effective and won't work very well if not done right.
08-02-09, 09:20 AM
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Certainly, but although I can think of a number of reasons why threadless 1" steel steer tubes would continue to use the same wall thickness as threaded 1" steel steer tubes (e.g. ease of manufacturing -- you only have to make one type of fork, thread some of them for the threaded market, leave the rest unthreaded; allowing for the possibility of aftermarket threading, etc.) I can't think of any reason why a threadless 1" steel steer tube of lighter gauge would be offered without prominent marketing ("it's soo much lighter!") and/or cautions about incompatibility with threads and quill stems.
