A basic questions about single speeds
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A basic questions about single speeds
I'm looking at getting a KHS solo one, and I know I want to immediately change the gearing.
What is the best way to get approximately 60 gear inches? Keep the 32T ring, keep the 20T cog, or switch them both?
What is the best way to get approximately 60 gear inches? Keep the 32T ring, keep the 20T cog, or switch them both?
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https://www.sheldonbrown.com/gears/
if you change the cog or chainring, go larger rather than smaller to achieve your desired GI. (i.e. 48x19 vs 43x17). larger = less wear.
some will also recommend going all even, but this doesnt seem all that necessary.
if you plan on riding brakeless, figure out skid patches as well -- more patches, the better.
if you change the cog or chainring, go larger rather than smaller to achieve your desired GI. (i.e. 48x19 vs 43x17). larger = less wear.
some will also recommend going all even, but this doesnt seem all that necessary.
if you plan on riding brakeless, figure out skid patches as well -- more patches, the better.
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60gear inches is quite low. for most areas ~70 is recommended.
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Did you guys even look at the damn bike?
It's a 29'er SS.
Made for trails. Not the street.
I'd either keep the 32t and put on a 15t or 16t cog.
Other wise, I'd get these:
Surly 36t chainring 104bcd
Polycarb bash gaurd
Some 17t freewheel
Polycarb bashgaurds look so fly, I'd get one in either case.
It's a 29'er SS.
Made for trails. Not the street.
I'd either keep the 32t and put on a 15t or 16t cog.
Other wise, I'd get these:
Surly 36t chainring 104bcd
Polycarb bash gaurd
Some 17t freewheel
Polycarb bashgaurds look so fly, I'd get one in either case.
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33T on front, 16T on rear.
Salsa bashgard.
Remember lower gear inches on offroad means more low end power. If you're track/riding area/deer path has long straight aways, you'll just have to spin a bit (I spin out regularly at 20 mph on flats) but it pays off having the extra power on steep climbs.
Our trails have multiple 4-6' climbs at 45 degrees or greater, some are sloopish so they've got a 45 degree climb on a 20+ degree camber.
Salsa bashgard.
Remember lower gear inches on offroad means more low end power. If you're track/riding area/deer path has long straight aways, you'll just have to spin a bit (I spin out regularly at 20 mph on flats) but it pays off having the extra power on steep climbs.
Our trails have multiple 4-6' climbs at 45 degrees or greater, some are sloopish so they've got a 45 degree climb on a 20+ degree camber.
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Thanks for the replies. 36-17 would be ideal for me, but that would involve switching both the ring and the cog.
If I were to buy a 36T ring and 17T cog, do I just swap them out? Or do I need a new crank? And a new chain? Basically, will the cost of the new ring and cog be the final cost?
Also will 60ish gear inches feel the same regardless of how it is made up?
You can probably tell I'm new to single speed. Thanks.
If I were to buy a 36T ring and 17T cog, do I just swap them out? Or do I need a new crank? And a new chain? Basically, will the cost of the new ring and cog be the final cost?
Also will 60ish gear inches feel the same regardless of how it is made up?
You can probably tell I'm new to single speed. Thanks.
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You'll be fine with that crankset, it's a perfectly good 4 bolt 104bcd crank.
You will however, need a new chain. It's good practice to replace the chain when replacing cogs or chainrings, and most times required.
And yes, the gear inches will feel the same no matter how you make it up.
Looks like a fun bike, enjoy it regardless!
You will however, need a new chain. It's good practice to replace the chain when replacing cogs or chainrings, and most times required.
And yes, the gear inches will feel the same no matter how you make it up.
Looks like a fun bike, enjoy it regardless!