Question about replacing freewheel hub
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Question about replacing freewheel hub
I am in the market for a cheap single speed for getting around the neighborhood. I trying to decide between the Scattante Empire State (I am aware of how lame the idea of this is, but as 35 year old father of an infant, street cred isn't exactly on my mind) and the new Kilo Stripper. So here's the question:
I rode the Scattante, and it was a pretty nice ride for the money. Not too exciting but comfortable and functional. There was one issue. There seemed to be a lag when engaging the gear from a coast. Like perhaps the "ratchet" mechanism in the hub had less teeth or splines. Is this possible? Do cheaper hubs have less splines? I hope I'm using the right terminology here. And, does the Kilo stripper have a freewheel hub or would I have to add one? I've ridden fixed and frankly for my purposes, I kinda want to coast.
So, if I were to add a hub to the BD bike or if I would replace the hub on the Scattante, where do I start for something a little faster? How much money are we talking about? Spending too much would defeat the purpose of a cheap bike for kicking around town.
Thanks for your help.
I rode the Scattante, and it was a pretty nice ride for the money. Not too exciting but comfortable and functional. There was one issue. There seemed to be a lag when engaging the gear from a coast. Like perhaps the "ratchet" mechanism in the hub had less teeth or splines. Is this possible? Do cheaper hubs have less splines? I hope I'm using the right terminology here. And, does the Kilo stripper have a freewheel hub or would I have to add one? I've ridden fixed and frankly for my purposes, I kinda want to coast.
So, if I were to add a hub to the BD bike or if I would replace the hub on the Scattante, where do I start for something a little faster? How much money are we talking about? Spending too much would defeat the purpose of a cheap bike for kicking around town.
Thanks for your help.
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I would look at the Dawes SST, or Windsor Clockwork, (depending on bar preference) they have the freewheel and brakes std.
Looks like the Kilo Stripper will need a freewheel added for single speed/coasting. The Kilo (in general) has more frame mounts if you want to use a rear rack later, the Kilo WT has the most function with more fork mounts and the rear frame mounts (for racks), it has some upgraded parts, brakes and a freewheel. Kilo WT can also mount wide tires, and wider fenders for more comfort/traction if that suits you as well.
Skinny tires (higher pressure), taller gears, light weight, more aero, stronger legs all will make you go faster. Maybe a geared road bike if you want fast for a distance. Not sure I get your meaning fully with "where do I start for something a little faster?"
There are differences in the freewheels, some are made for faster engagement for Trials riding. They can be pricey, but the stock SST freewheel has not caused me any grief yet.
Top line freewheels...
https://whiteind.com/singlespeedgearing/freewheels.html
Big range of prices and options...
https://www.bikeman.com/Single-Speed_Freewheels.html
ACS has a good rep for a low/mid price freewheel options.
Looks like the Kilo Stripper will need a freewheel added for single speed/coasting. The Kilo (in general) has more frame mounts if you want to use a rear rack later, the Kilo WT has the most function with more fork mounts and the rear frame mounts (for racks), it has some upgraded parts, brakes and a freewheel. Kilo WT can also mount wide tires, and wider fenders for more comfort/traction if that suits you as well.
Skinny tires (higher pressure), taller gears, light weight, more aero, stronger legs all will make you go faster. Maybe a geared road bike if you want fast for a distance. Not sure I get your meaning fully with "where do I start for something a little faster?"
There are differences in the freewheels, some are made for faster engagement for Trials riding. They can be pricey, but the stock SST freewheel has not caused me any grief yet.
Top line freewheels...
https://whiteind.com/singlespeedgearing/freewheels.html
Big range of prices and options...
https://www.bikeman.com/Single-Speed_Freewheels.html
ACS has a good rep for a low/mid price freewheel options.
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I guess when I say "something faster" I mean a faster engaging hub. The day I rode the Scattante, I rode some higher priced bikes and it seemed that the ratchet in the hub engaged much quicker after coasting. It made for a much more exciting ride. That inch (it felt like an inch, it was probably much smaller) of so of space before the hub engaged was a little...um...disengaging? (That was weak)
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You will not be replacing any hubs, you will simply be installing a new BMX freewheel on the hub. I suggest you peruse sheldonbrown.com for a while and familiarize yourself with the basic terminology. That's not meant as an insult, it's genuine advice.
If you don't feel like it's working well, then ask the people at Performance to replace it with a Shimano BMX freewheel. It'll cost them like $10 and any salesman should do it in order to make a sale.
Also, BMX freewheels often need time to break in. I wouldn't necessarily worry about it not performing immediately, since it should come around after not too long.
If you don't feel like it's working well, then ask the people at Performance to replace it with a Shimano BMX freewheel. It'll cost them like $10 and any salesman should do it in order to make a sale.
Also, BMX freewheels often need time to break in. I wouldn't necessarily worry about it not performing immediately, since it should come around after not too long.
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Thanks for the advice. I had just started reading the site (sheldonbrown) actually. Lots of good info there. I understand a bit of how it works but I am definitely lacking in the lingo department. I think you answered my question for me. If it is as simple as a new freewheel, then that seems to be the most logical and cheap. I think my hesitation about buying the Scattante comes from hearing lots of people knock Performance and celebrate Bikes Direct.
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Those people are stupid - the quality of the frames and spec'ed components are nearly identical. Plus, if you live in a town with an actual Performance shop, you have a place to take your bike if you have problems, rather than asking a bunch of nitwits on a messageboard and then trying to sort out the correct answer through the signal/noise ratio.
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Well put. Its good to hear that. My thought was for $350 how much does it matter. I think they would all serve my purposes pretty well. With the Scattante, I can drive a mile or two and pick up the bike from Performance and have them check everything out, install the freewheel, cut down the bars (they're really damn wide) etc.
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Do take a look at the White Ind site to see how the freewheel works if it interests you and the difference in the regular and trials versions.
From: https://whiteind.com/singlespeedgearing/freewheels.html
"The two main issues with trials is quick engagement and durability of the freewheel. The trials version addresses both of these concerns. We have designed a specific outer gear case that is beefier than our standard freewheel. The case, like all our freewheels, is made out of 8620 steel, cased hardened and then electroless nickel plated. In short, made to last. The engagement system is a six pawl system yielding 72 points of engagement, double that of our standard freewheel. Can this freewheel be used in a typical single speed non trials application? Certainly. "
Trials type - 6 pawl
https://whiteind.com/images/640_TRIALS_DRIVER.jpg
Compared to regular - 3 pawl
https://whiteind.com/images/Instructi...isassembly.pdf
From: https://whiteind.com/singlespeedgearing/freewheels.html
"The two main issues with trials is quick engagement and durability of the freewheel. The trials version addresses both of these concerns. We have designed a specific outer gear case that is beefier than our standard freewheel. The case, like all our freewheels, is made out of 8620 steel, cased hardened and then electroless nickel plated. In short, made to last. The engagement system is a six pawl system yielding 72 points of engagement, double that of our standard freewheel. Can this freewheel be used in a typical single speed non trials application? Certainly. "
Trials type - 6 pawl
https://whiteind.com/images/640_TRIALS_DRIVER.jpg
Compared to regular - 3 pawl
https://whiteind.com/images/Instructi...isassembly.pdf
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Looking at these links, it makes total sense what I was feeling when pedaling. So there are two thoughts:
1. Buying a $120 Time Trials driver for this bike might be like polishing a turd
2. Is there a middle ground or a cheaper faster engaging freewheel? Is it the previously mentioned Shimano BMX freewheel?
1. Buying a $120 Time Trials driver for this bike might be like polishing a turd
2. Is there a middle ground or a cheaper faster engaging freewheel? Is it the previously mentioned Shimano BMX freewheel?
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Those people are stupid - the quality of the frames and spec'ed components are nearly identical. Plus, if you live in a town with an actual Performance shop, you have a place to take your bike if you have problems, rather than asking a bunch of nitwits on a messageboard and then trying to sort out the correct answer through the signal/noise ratio.
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Yes, as above check out ACS for a low priced freewheel with a decent reputation. They aren't trials though...
https://www.google.com/products?hl=en...heel&scoring=p
You'll just need to figure out what gearing suits you to get the right number of teeth.
https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/468351-gearing-primer.html
And you will need to keep in mind the chain size... if your bike has a 3/32" front sprocket and chain you need 3/32" freewheel. If it has a 1/8" front sprocket and chain you can use either 3/32" or 1/8" freewheel. 1/8" is wider, stronger, heavier, often found on bmx and track bikes... 3/32" is more common for geared bikes, slim, still strong, lighter.
The local Performance shop should have some freewheels, or be able to get them quick as well if you go with their bike.
https://www.google.com/products?hl=en...heel&scoring=p
You'll just need to figure out what gearing suits you to get the right number of teeth.
https://www.bikeforums.net/singlespeed-fixed-gear/468351-gearing-primer.html
And you will need to keep in mind the chain size... if your bike has a 3/32" front sprocket and chain you need 3/32" freewheel. If it has a 1/8" front sprocket and chain you can use either 3/32" or 1/8" freewheel. 1/8" is wider, stronger, heavier, often found on bmx and track bikes... 3/32" is more common for geared bikes, slim, still strong, lighter.
The local Performance shop should have some freewheels, or be able to get them quick as well if you go with their bike.
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I guess when I say "something faster" I mean a faster engaging hub. The day I rode the Scattante, I rode some higher priced bikes and it seemed that the ratchet in the hub engaged much quicker after coasting. It made for a much more exciting ride. That inch (it felt like an inch, it was probably much smaller) of so of space before the hub engaged was a little...um...disengaging? (That was weak)
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could be the cheap Dicta freewheels most bikes come with OEM......best feeling freewheel I've ever ridden was a AC Racing 15T. i still have it.