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Most durable Cog

Old 09-10-09, 12:08 PM
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Most durable Cog

Hello all.

I have a fg that I use to commute on sometimes and that I do a fair bit of winter base miles on, esp. in ****ty weather.

I stripped the rear hub, so I am going to JB weld a cog on there instead of just toss the wheel out. Because this will be the last cog that ever goes on the wheel, I want it to be very durable (hardened steel FOSHO).

Do any of you w tons of FG miles have recommendations for very durable and hard rear cogs? This bike will be used primarily for 1-3 hr rides (nothing longer) and short trips around town/to campus when im wearing regular street clothes.


BTW if any of you have exp w JB welding please chime in.


THX
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Old 09-10-09, 12:19 PM
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Buy a cheap cog and replace the wheel as soon as you can.

Long rides aren't your worry. Skidding and anything that induces large stress loads to the bond are your worry.

Do it for the time being if you have to, but no more than what is necessary.

Be safe.
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Old 09-10-09, 12:26 PM
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yeah, don't use a stripped hub.

that being said...dura ace is fairly cheap and very durable.
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Old 09-10-09, 12:38 PM
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Buy a new wheel.
Surly cog's have a beefy tooth profile, cant comment on how long it will last yet.
My Dura Ace cog wasn't as beefy but it was super smooth, however I thought it wore out bit soon (~3.5 months of life)
Then again I was regularly riding an average of 60 miles a day 5 days out of the week on it.
If your only doing 1-3 mile trips you will obviously see longer life in your cogs.
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Old 09-10-09, 12:50 PM
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^
|
|

That was a 1-3 hr trips not miles.

I should just buckle down and buy a new wheel, and I will as soon as this one gives but I gotta make it last for all its worth cuz im broke.

Is a JB weld a really short-term solution? Like under 3 months? If that's the case I wont even bother.



But im concerned about a durable cog regardless of new hub or JB weld job. Dura ace is the fav. vote so far.
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Old 09-10-09, 01:04 PM
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jb weld is a very short term solution...as in get a new wheel as soon as possible. I mean, you can find a rear wheel for like 50-60 bucks.

Jb weld has the potential to work for a while, but do not trust it at all. ride with brakes, no skidding, no skipping, etc. plus, jb weld hasn't worked too well for me between aluminum and steel.
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Old 09-10-09, 01:13 PM
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I got a 15T surly. Seems good.
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Old 09-10-09, 01:29 PM
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EAI. If you want higher tooth counts, like above 17, DuraAce doesn't have them.
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Old 09-10-09, 01:30 PM
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Milwaukee Bicycle Cogs seem very well made.....and quiet
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Old 09-10-09, 01:36 PM
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more teeth = longer lasting, but more torque generated and more torque means its easier to rip it off again.
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Old 09-10-09, 01:43 PM
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Surly cogs seem to last a good long time... my longest serving cogs are the antique 1/8 track cogs I have collected over the years as they never seem to wear.
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Old 09-10-09, 01:43 PM
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I have had good luck with both Suntour and EAI cogs lasting for a long time.

Whatever you choose, get something cut not stamped.
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Old 09-10-09, 01:51 PM
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Surly's are damn near bulletproof.
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Old 09-10-09, 01:58 PM
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Think I have 4 MN winters of cranking up hills on my Surly cog... seems to be holding up very, very well considering it has lasted longer than everything else on the bike.
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Old 09-10-09, 02:04 PM
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Any cog that's not made of balsa wood is going to out-last this guy's application. He needs a new wheel. Period.
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Old 09-10-09, 03:57 PM
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Take your wheel to a machine shop and have them spot weld the cog on, yeeeaaaaa
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Old 09-10-09, 04:28 PM
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Are the lockring threads stripped? If its just the cog threads that are stripped, you can JB weld a Miche carrier and you will still be able to replace cogs.
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Old 09-10-09, 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by Yo! View Post
Take your wheel to a machine shop and have them spot weld the cog on, yeeeaaaaa
Is this a bad idea? It seems like it would be strong enough, and might even be cheaper than buying JB Weld.
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Old 09-10-09, 08:44 PM
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I just realized that I will be able to afford a new wheel early next year, mid Jan-ish depending on when paycheck comes in.

Having said that I will JB weld the cheapest cog I can find on there and buy a new wheel next year.

Thanks for all the replies.
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Old 09-10-09, 08:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Sixty Fiver View Post
Surly cogs seem to last a good long time... my longest serving cogs are the antique 1/8 track cogs I have collected over the years as they never seem to wear.
Yeah. I have an old TDC cog that just keeps going...
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Old 09-10-09, 08:57 PM
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Originally Posted by mihlbach View Post
Are the lockring threads stripped? If its just the cog threads that are stripped, you can JB weld a Miche carrier and you will still be able to replace cogs.
This sounds like the best salvage idea yet!
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Old 09-10-09, 11:04 PM
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i have tried this before, same situation where i was broke as a joke and tried to jb weld my lockring on. didnt end well at all. i lost the lockring going down a hill and started freewheeling downhill. luckily, i was able to ditch into a yard instead of an intersection. so, from my experience, not worth it. try and make a new wheel/hub happen if you can
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Old 09-10-09, 11:10 PM
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what you need is an euro-asia gold medal pro cog
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Old 09-10-09, 11:20 PM
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yes, the best solution is to just take it to any machine shop and have them weld it into place real quick. It will stay on forever at that point and you won't need a new wheels until you want to change cogs. And most shops should do it for free in 3 minutes
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Old 09-11-09, 12:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Yo! View Post
Take your wheel to a machine shop and have them spot weld the cog on, yeeeaaaaa

Has there been a new breakthrough in metallurgy? Last time I checked, steel and aluminum are kinda hard to weld together

However, you could crank the cog on as tight as possible, then have a couple small holes drilled through the cog and hub where they meet and then have pins inserted with an interference fit... but this would cost at least as much as a new hub.
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