Chris King FIXED HUB
 

So i was looking to build up a new wheel set or just rear wheel to lead into a full new bike build.

Has anyone used a ss hub with disc mounted cog?

Has any one done this or had experience with this?

My concern is the chain line of the fixed side. Any input or ideas?

I want to build up a rear chris king hub as a ss/fg flip flop hub. I hadn't picked out a rim yet, but it'll probly be something burly and can take abuse. I think I'll build it to run a 25mm tire.

So any input would greatly be appreciated
I know it is plausible as manufacturers make iso bolt on cogs. Just looking for experiences and such

i haven't done it, but i know most disc brakes have a universal distance from the center of the hub. i don't know for sure what that distance is, but a rough measurement of my own disc hub with a caliper gives me 46mm... which would probably be a 47mm chainline with the thickness of a cog.

the standard track hub chainline is 42mm, and the issue is usually getting a crankset and BB to match that. i know paul hubs have a 46mm chainline. i have a set and they work fine with a slightly longer spindle BB... you should be able to do the same with your hub.

this is, of course, if you can find a bolt-on cog... i know i've seen them, but i don't know if they were manufactured for such an application or just drilled out.

Have you checked out the White Industries fixed hub? Sure is a beauty.

I've never had the chance to check out a White Industries hub in person, but they do look pretty slick.

Thanks for the great info wearyourtruth. Very helpful and positive

I transformed a Surly front disk hub into a fixd hub using a tomicog and following these instructions...
http://www.fixedgeargallery.com/arti...mson/surlyhub/
It worked perfectly. With zero dish the Surly front hub yields a 45mm chainline. Of course, if you dish is slightly, you can move it either way a few mm.

If you have a 120 spaced frame with a "track" chainline (41-43mm), the best option would be to use a bmx disk freehub. There are few BMX disk hubs out there. I've spoken to the guys at Kore about this hub.
http://www.kore-usa.com/image/produc...c_black_lg.jpg
http://www.kore-usa.com/products/hub...r_disc_3x.html

You would have to put in a longer axle for a 120mm frame, but it will give you an approximately "track" chainline on both sides.

mihlbach thanks for the great info and link. I'll keep that in mind.

I was trying to keep it a flip hop hub so I could have ss and fg.

I'll keep the core in mind.

I've had decent luck just throwing a new axle and 15mm of spacers on a normal track hub, but I don't do anything especially gnarly on it.

I really believe a disc freehub is a superior option for a fg/ss flip flop hub. You get the best of everything...(1) both sides are unstrippable, (2) the cogs on both sides can easily be changed (3) you have a lot of more chainline adjustability than a threaded hub, and (4) the whole system probably weighs less than a hub+thread-on cog+thread-on freewheel, and (5) you can run two fixed cogs simultaneously with a cog spacer between them (see below) and possibly even two freewheel cogs (depending on the width of the freehub body), for a total of 4 possible gear ratios.

Most SS cassette hubs and MTB disc hubs are spaced too wide for a 120mm frame and will give you a substanitally wider chainline than your typical "track" standard. A BMX disk freehub (such as the Kore hub referenced above) will get you very close to the 42.5mm track standard chainline and will work in a 120mm frame with an axle swap and additional 5 cm of axle spacers on each side.

I found my (Jan, 09) email from Kore about using this hub as a fg/ss flip flop. Heres what they sent me....


"...the chainline for the hub is 42mm. If the disc were a sprocket, the "chainline" would be 40.5mm so you are 1.5mm difference (the thickness of a washer). So if you put a washer behind the disc (between the disc and the hub) and bolted it up, the disc would be in exactly the same location as the sprocket if the hub were flipped around.
Note that the hub being a cassette hub, you can swap the spacers around and adjust the chainline +/- 5mm if need be."

Based on that info, everything should work beautifully with a cog and disc cog spacer (shown below) from velosolo.org. I badly want to build a wheel with that Kore hub, but I just don't need a new wheel right now.
Attachment 118475

me either but i need a new project and a wheel build would be cheaper than a nike build. hah.

Thanks for the great info man. very helpful

So I just got off the phone with a guy at Chris King, who didn't seem very enthused to talk to a possible customer, but he mentioned if the spacing was correct the cog might come into contact with the chain or seat stays?

Any opinions or recommendations

I hope so.:D

haha

chainstays

I dunno that I'd blow the money on a king hub if I'm not even planning on using their freehub mechanism.

im using a deore front disc hub respaced to 120mm. drilled my own ss cog to work with it too. been strong for over a year without any maintenence

and jimbob hit the nail on the head. dont waste money for a CK hub if you dont even use its driving mechanism

I'm pretty sure he meant that he planned to use the hub as a flip flop, so I think he would be using the freehub at least part of the time. Whatever the case, I wouldn't bother with a king hub. The angry bees would drive me nuts and the cost just isn't justifiable. The only point of having a King hub is to show it off.

mihlbach hit the nail on the head on this one guys. He is correct. I want a flip flop with a lot of show that is a solid hub. The only problem with CK is the 130mm spaced hub.

What frame are you using? A 130mm hub shouldn't be a problem with a steel frame...bend the says out a bit. 5mm on each side is nothing.

The other issue is the chainline. Do you have any idea what chainline the fixed side will be and if it will match the freehub side? If you can get those to be (nearly) equal, its just a matter of matching the chainline up front with the correct crank and BB spindle. Based on your earlier post, it sounds like you are going to have some chainline issues. Did you get any real numbers from the CK guy on the phone?

Yeah I have an aluminum frame with 120 spacing right now but I'm looking at getting the new Leader steel frame or a surly. I thought about bending but yeah aluminum....no.

Th guy at CK sucked. He didn't give me any info besides saying he didn't think it would work cause the cog would hit the stays.

There is a guy at the LBS that rides a ss CK hub I could probably measure it and do some calculations.

I currently have a suzue pro max hub and am running a sugino messenger crank with a sugino bb and my chain line is off. So if it wold be slight I'd be ok but I'd prefer a nice chain line.

I'm thinking I'll have to get a new BB for a new build. and I might upgrade cranks while I'm at it.

you could probably find an old shimano front disk hub (110mm spacing) real cheap and convert it to solid axle with an extra 10mm of spacers for a cheap fixed only hub.

i found an old deore hub on ebay for 10 bucks and then spent about 10 bucks for the parts to switch out the axle and the needed spacers. chainline seems like it would be perfect but honestly i never got around to buying a cog or building it into a wheel. someday soon when i need a new wheel i'll give it a go...

yeah. I have considered using a front hub, but the goal was to have a flip flop hub