how "difficult" would it be going from a 42 tooth chainring to a 46 tooth?
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how "difficult" would it be going from a 42 tooth chainring to a 46 tooth?
would this be a difficult transition 42T to a 46T?
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you'll notice a difference at first but get used to it if you ride any decent amount. Eventually you'll enjoy not having to spin so much when you ride
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I'll just assume you've never done a chainring swap before? It's pretty easy if you know what you're doing and have tools.
You need to remove the chain first. After that, remove the crank + chainring from your BB (if you've got a square tapered BB, you'll probably need that great Park tool that we all love). Once you've removed that, unscrew the crank bolts to separate the chainring from the crank.
Now just put the new chainring on the crank, and put it all back on the bike. You might need to add some length to your chain, just don't make it too loose.
You need to remove the chain first. After that, remove the crank + chainring from your BB (if you've got a square tapered BB, you'll probably need that great Park tool that we all love). Once you've removed that, unscrew the crank bolts to separate the chainring from the crank.
Now just put the new chainring on the crank, and put it all back on the bike. You might need to add some length to your chain, just don't make it too loose.
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alright cool. in the spring i swapped my rear cog (16T) for a 15T. if i add 4 more teeth to the front would i expect the resistance to be 4 times that of when i went from 15T to 15T?
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I'll just assume you've never done a chainring swap before? It's pretty easy if you know what you're doing and have tools.
You need to remove the chain first. After that, remove the crank + chainring from your BB (if you've got a square tapered BB, you'll probably need that great Park tool that we all love). Once you've removed that, unscrew the crank bolts to separate the chainring from the crank.
Now just put the new chainring on the crank, and put it all back on the bike. You might need to add some length to your chain, just don't make it too loose.
You need to remove the chain first. After that, remove the crank + chainring from your BB (if you've got a square tapered BB, you'll probably need that great Park tool that we all love). Once you've removed that, unscrew the crank bolts to separate the chainring from the crank.
Now just put the new chainring on the crank, and put it all back on the bike. You might need to add some length to your chain, just don't make it too loose.
Just unscrew the chainring bolts, it's easier to remove the chainring from a crank than it is to solve a level 1 disentanglement puzzle.
do the math here.
https://sheldonbrown.com/gears/
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Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
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alright ive done the calculation. but what do the numbers 5.7 and 6.2 mean (those are what i got). i dont like reading, yes i am a lazy bastard
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50cm more movement per one full rotation of crank
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Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
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You will be moving up, like, 7 GI.
I do not think it will be a difficult transition, unless your legs are not conditioned.
I do not think it will be a difficult transition, unless your legs are not conditioned.
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That's about equivalent to changing your cog to one tooth smaller, give or take 1.5 GI. In my opinion, it's not to large of an increase. I plan on doing this in the future, when I get my spin down to perfection.
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You need to remove the chain first. After that, remove the crank + chainring from your BB (if you've got a square tapered BB, you'll probably need that great Park tool that we all love). Once you've removed that, unscrew the crank bolts to separate the chainring from the crank.
#11
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#12
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42/15 is fine ratio, you don't even spin that much. The 46/15 is way too high in my opinion.
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Your legs will get ripped off!!!!
(I was going to link a photo off a google search "legs ripped off", but after seeing a bunch of gore photos I decided I had best not.)
(I was going to link a photo off a google search "legs ripped off", but after seeing a bunch of gore photos I decided I had best not.)
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80GI, 24mph @ 100rpm
knees will explode
knees will explode
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Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
Food for thought: if you aren't dead by 2050, you and your entire family will be within a few years from starvation. Now that is a cruel gift to leave for your offspring. ;)
https://sanfrancisco.ibtimes.com/arti...ger-photos.htm
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Why would you change gearing to make it more difficult? It should be easier.