Possible Radial Lace build/problem
 

So heres my situation...

I had my friend build me a radial laced front wheel. 32h high flange Phil to Deep V w/ double butted Sapim spokes. Apparently, the rim he sold me is kind of wonky at the seam. Has a super slight wobble in that spot.
Didnt know until he started the build.
So in that area (where the wobble is on the rim,) the tension of the 4-6 spokes are really taught, compared to the others. He told me that with double butted spokes, they arent supposed to be super tight.
So Im wondering, since being radial laced, will I run the risk of breaking spokes?
I dont do any bunny hops, unless theres a pot hole in the road, but I usually just avoid them.
I dont really wanna have to buy a new rim.
Havent taken it for a ride yet, but I just wanted to know any risk/probable risks I could be facing, with this problem.

No ansur?

it depends. there's no way to tell if those particular spokes are strong enough or not, and it depends on your weight and how you hit those potholes... there's just a ton of variables. it could break but i'm going to guess that if your friend knows how to build a wheel, and the bend is less than 2mm out of true, the spokes can handle it. if they can't they're defective, or the build is flawed(spokes weren't stretched or tensioned properly even if you just forget about the bend).

a cross pattern is probably stronger if all other things are equal, but it doesn't necessarily mean your wheel will fail just because it's radial.

Sounds more like a crappy wheel build.

A poor craftsman blames the tools, not himself.

Every hoop will have a tiny hop at the seam. If you ever build a wheel and get it situated in a truing stand, 9 times out of 10 when it comes to a standstill from a spin it will settle with the seam at the bottom. A hop at the seam won't be apparent until the rim is laced and within a ballpark true anyway, when you can see how the wheel behaves when it's turning.

A typical radially laced wheel won't need as much tension as a regular 3x, since there's no bend in the spoke at crosses. Sometimes it's necessary to crank the spokes around the point of the highest vertical hop to try and flatten it out, and this is usually at or close to the seam, but at the end of the day, a wheel is adequately true when the wobble is 1mm or less. From my personal experience, I can usually get the lateral truing to within .5mm, but vertical will always have a slight blip at the seam, even if I spend 6 hours truing a set of wheels.

If the wheel has 1mm or less hop and the spoke tension seems adequate around the wheel, don't worry about it.

It's impossible to give an exact answer without a tensiometer or at least a better description than you've given here.. Take it to your lbs and see what they think.