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best rear cog teeth to skid with

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best rear cog teeth to skid with

Old 10-05-09, 02:13 AM
  #1  
FOBx530
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best rear cog teeth to skid with

yes yes, please don't flame. its another person trying to learn how to skid.

i just want to learn how to ride a fixie to the fullest and learn every aspect of riding a bike if i can.

I ordered a motob 2010 track after my single speed got stolen from my house. So I decided to get a beater bike and man up to learn how to ride a fixie.

The bike comes w/ 46/15.

I am only about 5'3 and weigh about 100-110.

I want to learn how to skid but with 15...it seems difficult. I'd like to know if there's another cog I should use to learn to skid or that's easier for me.

Preferably I'd like to sit skid.


THANK YOU to those who helped. sorry for the repost and being a noob.
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Old 10-05-09, 02:37 AM
  #2  
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"... it seems difficult..."

so you haven't actually tried skidding yet? just go give it a try first. its pointless to have a "skiddable ratio" if you dont have the technique first.

at first 48/16 "seemed difficult" for me but i kept at it and went faster and faster and fell but after all that, i can skid. how much did it cost me? $ 0. just go out and ride man! you're going to have to hit some problems (challenges) if you want to learn and get better.

oh yeah i completely forgot to mention skid patches!! im so dumb! go to https://www.bikecalc.com/skid_patch_calculator obviously having more skid patches are good.

ratio - skid patches
48/19 - 19
48/17 - 17
46/15 - 15

you cant go wrong with EAI cogs.

Last edited by feetpower; 10-05-09 at 03:03 AM.
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Old 10-05-09, 02:46 AM
  #3  
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prime numbers
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Old 10-05-09, 03:11 AM
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I understand skid patches.

I've also already tried to skid on it. It took me right to the hospital, my face is messed up and 5 stitches on my chin.

I'm not done yet until I've got the hang of it.

Thats why I'm asking which cog would make it easier, I can care less about skid patches how many I have or if I keep skidding on the same spot.

I just want to figure out which would help me skid easier.

Like I said...currently I have 46/15, are you saying I should switch it to 16? Alot of people said 17, but I'm wondering how much easier is it to skid?

I'm not a fan of shifting my body up front, I'd just like to sit skid if anything to stop.

Also what is EAI cog?

Does my weight matter in skidding?

Thanks.

Last edited by FOBx530; 10-05-09 at 03:24 AM.
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Old 10-05-09, 03:27 AM
  #5  
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leg strength is all that matters
the smaller the ratio the easier it is to skid
a 40:20 will be easier to skid on than a 48:17
but it will also give you 1 skid patch and no speed
just choose a ratio thats good for your type of riding and learn how to skid
eai is a brand
the bigger the cog the easier
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Old 10-05-09, 03:42 AM
  #6  
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my stolen bike was 52/20, right now i'm on 46/15. I can ride it as 46/15 but is there anything similar to 52/20 w/o having to change everything besides the rear cog?

thanks
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Old 10-05-09, 03:55 AM
  #7  
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use the gear calculator and figure it out man! plug in your numbers and then look for a ratio that's similar to 52/20.

looks like 46/18 might be what you need.
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Old 10-05-09, 04:08 AM
  #8  
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Try messing with this to see the gearing differences and effects... less gear inches should be easier to skid. Maybe somewhere between 60 and 75, depending on how easy you want it to be... and how fast you want to be able to go full out down a hill. Try a 17, 19, and a 21 in there to see how it works with the 46 and your tire size to get a decent number of skid patches.

https://software.bareknucklebrigade.c...it.applet.html
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Old 10-05-09, 05:20 AM
  #9  
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I dont understand "learning to skid," i did it the first time i rode a fixed gear, just lean forward a bit, lock your back leg, pull up with your front leg, your back tire stops moving and you skid. How do you end up in the hospital?
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Old 10-05-09, 05:48 AM
  #10  
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Originally Posted by xdrmusclex View Post
I dont understand "learning to skid," i did it the first time i rode a fixed gear, just lean forward a bit, lock your back leg, pull up with your front leg, your back tire stops moving and you skid. How do you end up in the hospital?
improper technique im guessing. thought he could go balls out and leaned forward and ate sh*t.
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Old 10-05-09, 08:39 AM
  #11  
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Find somewhere with bad traction. This will give you an idea of how it's supposed to work. THe skills you pick up there will transfer straightforwardly over to skidding on clean dry pavement.

Wet grass on a slight downhill slope is ideal for nervous noobs because it doesn't hurt to fall on, but I first skidded on pavement that was covered in wet leaves. In the snow you can skid for days, and ditto for very wet streets.

Almost all fg skidding involves a weight shift off the rear wheel, even when seated. It can be very subtle but you usually have to do it to help break the rear tire loose from the pavement. Otherwise you would have to rely on brute force, which won't always do the trick (although it may be enough e.g. on wet grass, especially when the fact that you are going downhill is already taking weight off the rear tire). You don't have to go forward (you can shift your weight up for a moment using the pedals' momentum) but it does have to get off that rear tire.

46-15 is a high-ish ratio and it will be harder to skid, especially for a beginner. With the same chainring, a 17 or even an 18 will give you a lot more power for starting and stopping. Your 52-20 is right in between those two ratios. You can figure this out for yourself with any online gear inch calculator such as Rabbit or Sheldon Brown's, or this new one: https://www.bikecalc.com/fixed

Last edited by mander; 10-05-09 at 08:53 AM.
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Old 10-05-09, 08:54 AM
  #12  
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Second the grass or wet pavement.

If you can't do it, don't worry about it. Most people can't the first time out. Just ride for a couple months, get stronger, get more comfortable moving your weight around on the bike, then try again.

6 months from now you'll be riding along having a great day and think to yourself "Hey, why don't a try skidding again?" and you'll nail it.

When you're just learning, it's a lot more about being comfortable and balanced with your weight forward than it is leg strength.

Don't overdo it, that's a good recipe for injury.
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Old 10-05-09, 09:29 AM
  #13  
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I have a 46/18 and it's the perfect ratio for all my needs. Skidding is easy, hills are cake, and I don't spin too much on the downs
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Old 10-05-09, 09:40 AM
  #14  
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I actually just switched from 46/16 to 46/18 and I like it quite a bit.
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Old 10-05-09, 10:12 AM
  #15  
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Originally Posted by dsh View Post
6 months from now you'll be riding along having a great day and think to yourself "Hey, why don't a try skidding again?" and you'll nail it.
This. I got the hang of skip stopping first before I could skid for a long distance. You don't have to lean as far forward as you think (im assuming this is how you ate it and went to the hospital), especially if you aren't trying to skid a block.
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Old 10-05-09, 11:30 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by FOBx530 View Post
my stolen bike was 52/20, right now i'm on 46/15. I can ride it as 46/15 but is there anything similar to 52/20 w/o having to change everything besides the rear cog?

thanks
Dude, are you in junior high or something? Don't they teach fractions in math class anymore? You really need us to figure this out for you?
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Old 10-05-09, 11:33 AM
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Originally Posted by mander View Post
Almost all fg skidding involves a weight shift off the rear wheel, even when seated. It can be very subtle but you usually have to do it to help break the rear tire loose from the pavement. Otherwise you would have to rely on brute force, which won't always do the trick (although it may be enough e.g. on wet grass, especially when the fact that you are going downhill is already taking weight off the rear tire). You don't have to go forward (you can shift your weight up for a moment using the pedals' momentum) but it does have to get off that rear tire.
Sheldon actually describes a technique where you allow the momentum of your fixed gear drivetrain to unweight the rear wheel. Basically you use the rearward pedal's upward momentum to unweight the wheel just enough to initiate a skid.

Works better at higher speeds, so perhaps it's not the best beginner's technique, but it's how I learned and skidding in general works best if you're going fast, so....

yeah.
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Old 10-05-09, 12:05 PM
  #18  
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22
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Old 10-05-09, 12:07 PM
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37
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Old 10-05-09, 12:33 PM
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Originally Posted by noisebeam View Post
22
Originally Posted by cc700 View Post
37

(From the jackass thread.)
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Old 10-05-09, 12:43 PM
  #21  
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Sure, but 22 is the largest size readily available.
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Old 10-05-09, 12:53 PM
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plant yo' nuts on the stem. You might want to size up on the rear cog. 17T would probably makes things a lot easier for you.

I found it easiest to learn when the pavement was a little wet. You'll lock up the rear really easily. Just find an empty parking lot or street to practice on.
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Old 10-05-09, 02:15 PM
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Are clips a requirement to skid?
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Old 10-05-09, 02:40 PM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by antonch View Post
Are clips a requirement to skid?
Are you serious?

It's always a requirement for FG riding! I can't believe some people would rather jizz their load off on a new wheel set instead of decent pedals/foot retention! FG bikes w/o foot retention is basically a glorified beach cruiser.
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Old 10-05-09, 03:01 PM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by feetpower View Post
Are you serious?

FG bikes w/o foot retention is basically a glorified beach cruiser.
Quoting for truth.

And try a 17t or maybe 18t if you don't care about skid patches.
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