plowmanjoe

just recently got my girl friend a kilo tt and she wants to ride single speed to start. so i figured i would just give her my freewheel that's on the flip side of my hub. but it doesn't fit the chain on her bike, i assume it's the wrong size for her drive train.

so do i need to get her a new chain or a new freewheel to make this work?

also does anyone know how long the cranks are on the 50cm kilo tt? i'm trying to minimize the toe overlap for her maybe some new pedals would work, any suggestions?

on a side note, was fully expecting to have to buy brakes and was pleasantly surprised when it came with front and rear brakes already. i think they must have just started including brakes.

ismellfish2

Sounds like you have a 1/8" chain and cog and she has a 3/32". She'll need a 3/32" width freewheel. I don't know stock specs on a kilo but does it have toe clips? If so, maybe shorter ones are the answer.

Brian

Personally, I wouldn't go with shorter cranks to reduce overlap. She should be riding with the most appropriately sized cranks for her, not her bike.

AngryScientist 

yea, toe overlap is really no big deal. also, most freewheels will work with 1/8 or 3/32 chain, what do you mean it wont fit?

plowmanjoe

her chain won't fit onto my freewheel, it just rests on top.

anybody know if the kilo tt cranks are 170 or 165mm?

any recommendations on a good freewheel and shorter pedals to get? looking for 17 or 18teeth.

Brian

The cranks should be 165mm, as my 54cm frame has 165mm cranks.

beeftech

seriously toe over lap is no issue especially with a free wheel.

ismellfish2

What are shorter pedals? Get a freewheel that fits the chain on the bike. Google kilo specs yourself. I just looked it up, took 5 seconds.

Deshi

Forget about the toe overlap. Its a non issue with a single speed. Buy a freewheel for 3/32" chains. Have fun.

plowmanjoe

next question, i want to get her a 17 or 18 tooth freewheel. it's in the middle of the dropouts right now, am i going to have to add some chain or should that be good?

Scrodzilla

The stock cog is 16t so yes, you'll need to add at least one full link. I had trouble finding the sweet spot when I switched to 48/18. I originally added two links but when my chain tension was optimal, my axle was at the very end of my dropouts and I wasn't digging it. I removed a link and it brought my wheel up closer than I was used to and it takes some clever workings to remove my rear wheel but I'd rather deal with that than have my rear wheel look like it's about ready to fall off.

It sounds like her bike has a 3/32" chain and your freewheel is 1/8".

PistaRider311

You shouldn't have to add any links. If I'm not mistaken, the stock drivetrain is 48-16, so even if you add 2 teeth and go up to 18 (which I would do for a SS), the rear axle will only slide up 1/2" (2 links=1", divided by 2 b/c half of the slack is taken up on top, and half on bottom). It should be pretty easy to measure if there's enough space. Just make sure there's at least 1/2" from the front of the axle to the front of the drop out.

HandsomeRyan

+1

They should be marked on the inside of one of the crank arms with the length.

Scrodzilla

I definitely needed to add a link when switching from 16 to 18 as my axle would have been buried in my dropouts...making it impossible to remove my wheel without breaking my chain...had I kept it the same length. Perhaps my chain was one link short to begin with, though.

Brian

I've frequently suspected that your chain was a link short.

Scrodzilla

Hahaha