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Quote:

Originally Posted by Retro Grouch (Post 10154906)

1. So what's the fork inside diameter? If it's anything other than 22.2 mm it's a non-starter because the stem won't fit.

2. I own a tap for a 1" threaded fork so I have a little experience to speak from. It's good for cleaning up threads and MAYBE adding a cew threads. I wouldn't even consider starting to thread a fork from new. I'm also thinking that anybody who would quote a price of $20.00 has probably never done it.

1.hmm good idea. i would imagine a shop probably owns a micrometer to check that first. and i doubt bikeisland is going to have an internally butted steer tube for the price. but i've been wrong before.

2. i thought the shop had to cut off all the threaded portion when resizing my threaded fork, but maybe there were some threads left. i walked out paying 20 bucks, but maybe he hooked me up since i go there a lot. he's the only shop in davis with fork threading stuff so while the procedure isn't common, he dose it enough

Quote:

Originally Posted by LupinIII (Post 10152356)

kilott forks are 1 inch. should be able to get it cut and threaded by any decent shop, probably around 20 bucks.

The fork dies at most shops are intended only for chasing threads or extending the threaded section on a fork that already has threads. To cut fresh threads on a steer tube you need a piloted die, or better yet a lathe. Take your fork to a machine shop and have them cut the threads (1" x 24tpi) using a lathe.

Quote:

Originally Posted by bigvegan (Post 10154183)

"Can you tell me more about the fork weakening? I don't want to do something to my bike that makes it more dangerous."

Threaded forks are thicker than threadless forks so that when metal is removed to make the threads, the fork is still adequately strong.

No, they're not -- assuming a steel steer tube, at least.

Quote:

Originally Posted by operator (Post 10155777)

So the OP wants to spend money to get something that is less stiff, heavier and slower.

Lol.

How is a stem "slower?"