jonnycomelately

today i was trying to get started fast and it felt like my pedal slipped. then i pedaled hard again to get up a hill and it did it again. then track standing. then, just to be sure, i tried a little skid, and it did it again. the chain is properly tensioned... what's going on? something with the lock ring? how do i fix it?

tx guys...

the_don

Same thing happened to my friend riding uphill.

i can only think that maybe the thread on the hub is at fault.

jonnycomelately

oh no... meaning what? a new hub? rebuilding the wheel?

Squirrelli

Only way to find out is to take off your cog and lock ring and inspect.

carleton

Your cog is slipping.

Either:
A) Take it to a shop and let them use a chain whip to tighten the cog and then tighten the [edit] lockring

or

B) Buy the tool(s) and do it yourself

fixiekid505

Listen to this man, your cog is not on tight enough

jonnycomelately

would this be considered regular maintenance, ie: should i get a chain whip bc it's gonna happen again?

Scrodzilla

You should own both a chainwhip and a lockring tool. In actuality, though, the only time I've ever used my chainwhip was to install/remove a cog. I usually mash up a small hill after putting on a cog before tightening my lockring all the way. I know, I'm a cave-dweller. I use my lockring tool frequently to make sure that little bastard is snugged down tight like he should be.

jonnycomelately

yep, was the lockring. it was loose, and had begun to chew up the threads, though not badly. got a trixie tool, chased the threads a bit with a dentist's pick, used scrod's method to tighten the cog, then the trixie to tighten up the new lockring. when this hub finally goes (it's an origin 8), i'm getting the wheel rebuilt on a phil wood; until then i'm keeping a close eye on the lockring. thanks guys!

Brian

..

TofuPowered

https://levelcomponents.com/index.html

say goodbye to slipping drivetrains.

carleton

Say hello to:
- Stripped heads on allen bolts
- Proprietary cogs
- Unadjustable play in the cog when the engagement points are worn.


Drivetrains slip when not adjusted properly. The same goes for shoelaces.

jonnycomelately

agreed. i'm just going to keep an eye on the lockring, and get the phil wood when the time comes. i've never used my freewheel -- don't even have a cog on there -- so am thinking about a fixed-fixed. any suggestions on which one to use? also, why is the white one so much more expensive than all the others?

NateRod

I actually felt my cog slip last night as I did a skip stop when I arrived home. Tried my best to loosen the lockring in order to tighen the cog but goddamn, I really tightened that *****. Couldn't get it to budge.

Could I tighten the cog without loosening the lockring? I'm thinking it's bad practice, but it's worth asking.

TejanoTrackie 

Yes, because by tightening the cog you will be pulling it away from the lockring, and the lockring will loosen. Once you have properly retightened the cog, you can the retighten the lockring.

dobber

While any of these alternative mounting systems are solutions in search of problems, none of your points are valid. That is unless you're incapable of performing simple mechanical tasks.

n8murphy

if you dont tighten it you will rip the treads from the lockring and the hub. the force of riding and stopping will push the lockring right off the threads cause the cog will spin freely.

carleton

What are you saying? On a cartridge system play will eventually develop between the cog and the hub as one or both of them begin to compress over time.. There is no mechanism to adjust for this. The bolts don't help because they act perpendicular to the cog and hub. Then when this happens the only solution is the replace the cog and/or hub.

On a standard track cog/lockring system one can simply tighten both to eliminate play in the system which the OP did.

As far as "simple mechanical tasks" go, screwing a cog clockwise then screwing a lockring counter-clockwise is as simple as it gets...unless you get confused about which way is clockwise.

continental88

There's a whole generation of kids now who don't understand why clockwise is clockwise... digital technology=no movement of hands=confusion when it comes to direction of rotation!

cleanupinaisle3

Short of getting a chainwhip, you could rotafix it. Just be careful. There's plenty of torque to be had at that distance (rotating the wheel). And you'll still need a lockring tool.

jonnycomelately

yep, that's what i did. so any takers on why the white phil wood is more expensive than the others, and which size fixed-fixed is best?

cleanupinaisle3

I have a rear Phil Wood laced to a black B43. I'm not a discerning rider, so let me just say, I don't notice a difference from it and my Miche Primato hubs, or any other hubs for that matter. I used to run Origin 8's (which are just rebranded Formulas) like you, and I couldn't care less about going back. I doubt you'll notice that much of a difference if you haven't been riding for that long.

jonnycomelately

yeah i don't think i'll notice a difference either, just that from what i've read and heard, i won't have the same problems (beginning to strip out the hub) that i'm having with the Origin 8s) if i had a wheel built around Phil Woods