the best deal on a 51T or 53T chainring.
 

aloha friends, I desperately need a larger chainring - was going to go with cog, but at this moment the decision is chainring.

specifically a 144BCD, 1/8th.

started this thread in hopes that my plight to find a neat new chainring will help out others. please discuss and post links. thank you!

I stick w Sugino rings just bc I like continuity across my crankset.

I like Sugino Zen Racing, 75, then Mighty Competition, in that order.

A sugino 75 or a Zen Racing chainring are def not a "good deal". I see, right now, a Blackspire, 144BCD 7075-T6 (exact same material as the expensive chainrings you listed) for $29.93 Buy It Now. That is a good deal.

Why not go with the cog? Cogs seem to wear faster than rings, and they are cheaper and easier to swap out. Just saying....

Also, assuming you are running a 48-- that is a major jump to a 53. That would be like dropping 2 teeth in the rear.

I paid $55 bucks for my 42/44 MC and 48t SG75 used in a lot buy. I have Blackspire SS rings on my MTB's and they're not like any of my Sugino rings in terms of quality. But I can't dispute that price for a 144/1/8" chainring. You got a link?

So they were a good deal for you because you were lucky. You surely realize that has ****-all to do with them being a good deal in general.

dude. whoa. how did you know I was running a 48T currently? your physic abilities are fantastic!

that being said, my old gearing was 53X19. but I completely replaced my crankset and now run a 48X19. it spins out far too quickly. therefore its imperative that a larger chainring be in the immediate future.

cheap! neat looking (the beaver logo is cute). but how does it ride. I have never even heard about blackspire until you posted it friend. may you offer some review and/or opinion of them?

thank you all for the help, friends!

Thanks for your input wroom. I'm certain I'm not the only savvy consumer on this forum.

OP, if you opt for the Blackspire ring, make sure it's 1/8".

Here's a good thread that may help you even though it's kind of old:

http://www.bikeforums.net/archive/in.../t-175427.html

You still have not answered the question. A 19T cog is not really a track cog in the first place.... why not just toss on a 17--- assuming it isn't welded on.

FSA Pro Track chainrings are very high quality. As strong and as round as the best. Not as light though. Half the price of Dura Ace or Campy.

http://www.fullspeedahead.com/fly.as...duct&taxid=100

- AL7075/T6 machined solid plate chainring
- Black anodized, silver machining
- 1/8" single speed
- BCD - 144mm
- Sizes - 45, 46, 47, 48, 49, 50, 51, 52, 53T

While I have not tried it, Blackspire is known for good fabrication standards, about the same as FSA. Besides, you really won't find a 7075-T6 chainring with a 144BCD that cheap. The Blackspire MSRP for that item is $70.

EDIT: I have not tried the Blackspire chainring, to be exact. I have used other Blackspire products, such as their seatposts and headset.

The only chainrings I ever buy (if at all) today, are the Surly Stainless ones. Once I buy one, that lasts forever. Unless I want to change gearing, the chainring stays on the bike. Will outlast me, maybe even my son.

understandably so. I was planning on securing a smaller cog instead of chainring. but at the price of a new phil wood cog, I assumed that it would be possible to obtain a new chainring. also, I understand that this notion may not make a ton of logic (and I am more then open to opinions) but at the moment the desire is for a large chainring.

the blackspire ones sadly do not come in 1/8th. :(

edit: the surly chainrings sadly do not come in 144BCD.

agreed

but why do you need a super pricey PW cog as opposed to a less expensive EAI or DA cog, other than for bling factor. if you're looking for a larger jump/decline in gearing, a new cog would be a more cost effective and sensible route.

Some guys like swapping cogs, others chainrings.

I don't like swapping cogs on my threaded hubs bc it requires much more of a process with the lockring/tool:

-Remove wheel
-Get lockring tool. If it's not a Phil or campy, glue busted knuckles before proceeding.
-Get chainwhip. Nearly bend rim trying to loosen cog.
-Finally get cog off. Realize once you do this that the used wheelset you bought has a stripped hub. If not, take new cog, thread on.
-Put wheel on bike, re-attach chain, stomp on pedals to tighten cog, put on lockring, tighten. Repair more busted knuckles.
-Take bike for a spin, get a bit more torque out the cog, go home, retighten lockring.
(for the idiots)
-Don't tighten cog/lockring enough, strip hub


OR

-Drop chain
-Take one allen key and your index finger and thumb
-Remove chainring bolts, affix new ring, retighten chainring bolts
-ride

True. And in general, there is a much larger choice of 130BCD chainrings, and typically they are cheaper for the same quality. Hence I don't have 144BCD cracksets. In the 144BCD world, the best you can hope is a 7075-T6 chainring - it's the hardest material found. I tried very hard to find steel chainrings in that BCD, once, and then gave up.