Steamroller... cutting down the steerer tube
 

I had my brand-new Creamroller stolen last week, and found a replacement... a brand-new maroon one on ebay... Looks great, talked with the seller, all's perfect... I should have it by the end of the week.

Question: The steerer tube hasn't been cut down, so there's a mess of spacers on the headset... I'm plenty handy with bikes, but have never cut down a steerer tube. Do you guys use a hacksaw, or a pipe cutter? Is it something best left to my LBS (a really good shop)? Or is it pretty easy to size it correctly? Does the fork need to be removed? Or can you do it with everything assembled?

I know it's threadless, so that probably simplifies it a bit, since I don't have to worry about mashing up any threads... but I'm also not too proud to let my LBS handle it.

here's a pic (still has the reflectors on it!)... can't wait!

http://www.dezinnia.com/cboone/bikes...beanroller.jpg

I think it's a bit easier to get a nice even cut with a pipe cutter but both ways work. Take a file to the edges once you're done. Just make sure you aren't cutting it too short. You might want to cut just cut a little off (one or two spacers worth) to start.

well with that stack of spacers, you have plenty of time and space to figure out your stem position. i like to leave ~3-5cm of spacer(s) above the stem just in case you want to change the stem position or if you decide to pick up a new stem with taller stack height.

Hacksaws are fine. Get a new fine-tooth blade. I used a hose clamp as a cutting guide on one, but it seemed to be a bigger hassle than necessary with the little screw mechanism getting the way. The next time I used a hose clamp to draw a nice straight line around the circumference and then just took my time and cut along the line. Afterwards, I cleaned it up with a dremel tool. A round file works well too.

On the length, before your get out the saw, move some of the spacers to the top of the stem to get the height just where you think you want it. Then ride around on it like that for a few days, just to make sure. Finally, remember that you need to cut it so that you have a 3mm gap between the top of the stem and the top of the stem.

:)

Yes, well. That would take one very special hacksaw, wouldn't it?

(Thanks for catching that.)

Thanks for the replies, all...

now, for the big question (in my mind), do I need to remove the fork to do this? (It's been a long time since I've done pulled a fork out of a bike -- like 20 years -- and I can't remember how "in place" the headset -- with all its associated bearings and washers -- remains.)

Yes; remove top cap and loosen the stem clamp; fork will drop from the bottom.

All your spacers and the top ring of your headset will slide off the steerer when you drop the fork, so be prepared to catch these items.

1) Find the handlebar position that suits your body, not aesthetics. Unless when your back hurts you can soothe it by telling it how nice your bike looks. You will go much further, faster if you are comfortable.

2) It makes no sense to have 4" of risers under a stem with 1" of drop. Flip the stem to a vertical position and remove 2" of risers.

3) Try the bike for a few days/weeks till you are absolutely sure you want to cut the steerer. Maybe save a bit on top just in case you want to raise it 1cm down the road (up to you).

4) Understand that dramatically cutting the steerer tube affects the resale value because the next guy might not be as flexible as you and/or may have a stem with a taller clamp area.

5) If you screw it up (uneven cut, cut too much), you have to buy a new fork. Makes that $10 the bike shop will charge to do it not seem so bad now, huh?

This is exactly why I have noooooo problem letting them do it. ;)

I used a pipecutter on mine and i had such a hard time getting the stem back on. I realized that i needed to file the damn thing. All i had at the time was the damn file on a tiny nail clipper. You can just imagine how long it took for me to finish. I was in a hurry and really wanted to ride it the next day so i didn't bother going to the bike shop. However, with a pipe cutter AND a file, you are basically set.

I used a dremel to file it down. I imagine it was a bit faster and easier than using a nail file.

Angle grinders or plasma cutters work bezt guyz

This bit here makes the most sense, even if I have the LBS do it... I can get used to it and then bring it in when I know they have some time to do it.

No way I'd pay someone to do this. I just wrapped some tape around it as a guide, then hacksaw'd it off. Worst case? Buy another fork for $50 or maybe even trade with someone.

I've hacksawed plenty of pipes in my day, but I've never cut a steerer tube. Margin for error is pretty tiny when it's your brand-new bike. And I don't mind giving my LBS $12 for the privilege of watching them cut it, and learning for the next time.

But because it's really long, I suppose I could cut it down a single spacer the first time, just to get a feel for the measurement and result.

It's all good.

I had the very scenario, Carleton is right! It cost $10 and 4-minutes for the LBS to do it. Easy-peasey, but 'tis the season when many shops are busy and put you on a waiting list so I bought that park tool cutting guide to be safe as it was my first time doing it on another bike (steamroller as it goes). It was pretty straight forward, dont forget that 3mm gap. Measure twice-cut once.

Dont rush it, live with it stock for a bit and fiddle about with the bar height that will work well for you and when you've found your sweet spot future-proof it by adding the height of 3 or 4 spacers above for when/if you sell it to the next guy and he wants to turn it into a townie or something.

I'm going thru a bit of a headache now with a bike I bought way back when that I sure would like if it's steerer tube was 2 or 3 inches taller so I'm stuck hunting about for stems with rises to get the bars up to a comfortable height.

Very easy job, but definitely a case of measure thrice, cut once.

for some reason, the "3mm gap between the top of the stem and the top of the steerer tube" is confusing me...

or maybe I just need to see a picture.

I just learned a little something about steerer tube cutting.

I used a pipe cutter, after reading debate for both a pipe cutter and a hacksaw. Next time I'll try a hacksaw. The problem I had was that, while making a clean cut, the pipe cutter created a very small bulge/fold/lip around the edge of the cut by pushing the metal to the side as it cuts through. This was on a 1" steerer with a shim, and I found that the slight change in outside diameter made the shim sit slightly too big, and I couldn't get my stem over it, nor could I pull off spacers over the lip in the metal. Had to spend some time with the file to get it even enough. That's one area where I think the type of cut made by a hacksaw might have been better. It works fine now, though.

http://www.parktool.com/images_inc/r...elp/fork11.jpg

http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=65

Brilliant. Many thanks, caloso.

(Because I didn't have a bike handy to look at, I was picturing the type of stem that fits down INTO the steerer tube.)

i used a sawzall. cut through it like buttah.

http://www.labsafety.com/images/xl/M..._LBC134937.jpg

Watch them cut it? Not really much to it. There is nothing special they do. Just measure and cut. The very first one I cut was a brand new bike, too. I don't think the margin of error is any less because it's a new bike, though. This is a very very easy task.