erpdat

I picked up this VO stem today from my LBS. It was really busy and the mechanic told me this stem should work fine. After installing and taking on a test ride. I am thinking No.

My last stem had the problem (at least I am assuming it was my stem) of making an annoying "click" sound anytime I ride standing and/or using the drops.

Also, it appears the stem isn't grasping the bars tight enough? I tightened the **** outta it. I've attached some photos..

Please let me know what you think.. Thanks!

calbob76

is it your bars flexing? my cheap bullhorns used to make the noise i think you are talking about

cc700

did you grease the bolts? it's either greasing the bolts or you're torquing the wrong **** to the wrong spec.

TejanoTrackie 

Are you sure the bars are not 25.4 and the stem is not 26.0?

erpdat

Not my bars. I just picked these up about a week ago. They're NJS Nitto B-123 drops. I got the same annoying clicking sound with my last stem.
So, it could be something else.. But I don't understand where the clicking noise could be coming from just from riding standing and/or using the drops.
See in the closeup picture how there is a little bit of extra space between the bars and stem? Is that normal? I just really don't want to go in and return them if they're fine. I work tonight at 11 which means I'll be riding my bike in the rain for 5 hours. Just wanna figure this out before I void my return...

Thanks guys.

tgscordv6

1. Tighten your headset correctly
2. The shop might have sold you the wrong handlebar clamp size.

erpdat

This is what I am worried about. I tightened the bolts to the max. Ughh I feel like a dumbass. I just couldn't resist. The stem is so sick for the price. Looks like I'm returning em. Thanks guys

erpdat

How does one correctly tighten a headset? I just removed the top of the headset, switched the stem out and screwed the headset back on. However, it tightens but it only gets so tight, then it just almost feels stripped

TejanoTrackie 

Well, the Nitto bars will be 25.4. If the stem is 26.0, you can get shims so they'll work with the bars. The reason I think the stem is 26.0, you have no gap between the clamp and the stem, and there should be a visible gap top and bottom when the clamp is fully tightened.

tgscordv6

https://bicycletutor.com/adjust-threadless-headset/

erpdat

Thanks for the link! So, should I just get a shim or switch out the stem entirely? I kind of hate the fact that the stem slants upward (even though its slight) but that may just be a downfall of riding threadless

cc700

a pepsi can wound around the bars one or two times will be sufficient 'shim' for the .6mm to clamp the bars right.

and uhh, you may have damaged the bars by tightening them as much as possible, all the torque applied to essentially four points.

also, i wouldn't disregard the headset thing. what's more likely is that your bearings are pitted now.

So pitted...

erpdat

How can I tell if my bars are damaged? Just taking the stem back and getting one that fits. Rghh.
New headset is probably in order too. What's decent that won't kill my pockets? Running Cane Creek (A Headset) right now

Scrodzilla

That VO stem is 26.0mm, FYI.

AEO

if you want your threadless stem to be flat, you'll have to get a 17deg stem.

most threadless stems are around 8~10deg because they'll offer all the positions needed that way.

cc700

no, you have to just inspect the bars with a point caliper, if at all possible.

they're probably fine, but just as a rule of thumb- if there's a problem on a bike, the LAST thing you want to do is "tighten bolts more." that's pretty much universal, unless something is coming loose.

the headset thing... well... if you were REALLY putting a lot of force on the cap bolt, you'd at very least pit the bearing races in the headset, if not pull the star nut out, if not worse. and in all likelihood, the bearing races in your 'aheadset' are just going to be slightly pitted so it will wear out super quickly.

then again, the 'aheadset by cane creek' headsets (usually an aheadset sts or similar) are crap headset anyway and probably wouldn't last long anyway... you basically are in a position where you can either - ride it with a pitted race until it stops rotating freely or becomes so unpredictable in its bearing friction that you don't want to ride it anymore or - just buy a new headset that is of good enough quality where you'll actually want to learn how to install it and adjust it before tightening any bolts.

the thing to rejoice in here is that you learned two, if not three, very important lessons...

1. measure twice, cut once...

or in this case, be absolutely sure everything fits together and is the right specification for what you want to use it for before you go installing or adjusting or using it, especially with other parts. had you taken the time to measure the stem and bars to make sure they fit together, you wouldn't have had a problem. not talking down to you, just trying to be clear that no matter what it is... you should always verify that things are right before you go and use / cut / install things.

2. screwing stuff can screw it up.

torque is a very important part of assembly. certain materials will break and you'll strip the threads off of stuff very easily if you don't pay attention to what the part calls for. you don't need to take a torque wrench to every bolt every time you adjust anything on a bike, but it doesn't hurt and simply tightening stuff is hardly ever the right answer to a problem that isn't fixed by hand tightening. thank god you don't adjust derailleurs.

3. (kinda the same as one, but let's extrapolate a little...)
Knowledge is key.

If you don't know what you're doing... don't do it. Even if you think you know what you're doing... like adjusting a headset... it's always best to check yourself before you wreck yourself. If you knew that bars came in slightly different diameters, you probably would have thought to check before you used the stem and discovered the ticking problem. It's basically the thought/philosophical application of measure twice cut once.

On the bright side... you're not hurt, your bike can be fixed, and nothing really actually broke.


A lot of people think that 25.4 and 26.0 bars are so close in diameter that you can use them interchangeably... and they're not wrong in all cases. but they're wrong in this case, and i'm hoping you didn't damage those bars(nittos are expensive for a reason... they're nice) trying to make that stem(which looks nice, but i didn't think was all that hot) fit.

another upside is that a lesser stem, or a lighter stem of higher degree of design and engineering... would have sheered on the threads if you really wrenched on the bar bolts. makes me think they overengineer the VO stem, at an expense of weight, to be really strong and fool-proof. i've had two stems strip on me, and they weren't even all that nice... easton ea30's strip easier than a drunk guy at a bachellorette party.

ichitz

you only tighten ur headset enuf that there's no play with ur fork.

ashlandjet

I have Nitto bars that are 25.4. I bought the Velo Orange stem which is 26.0. Velo Orange sells the shim for your bar/stem installation. I have no issues with my stem or bars making noise. I can't imagine finding a stem that is better quality then this one.

SlowRoller

VO also has a 17 degree stem. Also, +1 on greasing the bolts, as well as the clamp-area of the bars.

MysticRats

for 25 to 26 I cut a old tire tube to shim,
I have the VO stem and its clamping a 25.4 MTB flat bar, works fine with the rubber shim.

I think the clicking could be from a loose headset.
Even a slightly loose headset will really affect how well yur bike rides/feels

TheBikeRollsOn 

Just cut a strip out of a coke can, not pepsi because it's gross. Then wrap the strip around the part of the bar where the clamp fits around, then install the stem. This should fix the problem of the stem not fitting the bars, as far as the headset goes... hit up your LBS.

Scrodzilla