hard to pedal
 

So i picked up my first single speed bike for $50 and all i have to say is wow. this is nothing compared to a multi-speed bike. i have never owned a road bike and this is my first one. All i have to say is its hard to pedal when you start, but when you get moving, you can really feel the breeze. i think this is a love/hate relationship. well see how i manage on my next few rides. i will post some pics later.

If getting going is too tough, you may want to play with some different sprocket sizes to get it low enough to start comfortably and still keep a good pace once up to speed. Out of curiosity, what is your ratio?

You know, you can always change out the rear cogs for a more favorable ratio...

$50. I am guessing its a conversion still using the outermost chainring along with some 15~16t cog. Swap out the cog with a higher teethed one. It should be easier.

not sure, ill post some pics later. its a raleigh grand prix. blue, not sure what year.

Oh, in that case it's 52x15.

52 15 wow my steed wich is a converted varsity is 52 18 should i get a smaller cog ??

Its hard to recomend a good ratio with out knowing a few factors: how fit are you(stamina and leg muscles), how long is your commute, how often will you ride, what are you goals, how hilly is your ride, do you use brakes, is this your only bike, etc.

Generally if you find it to hard to start, your muscles tire easily, climbing hills is too hard or stopping is to dificulat you should gear down(smaller chainring, bigger cog)

And if you spin your pedals too fast, your stamina is drained to quickly or you cannot reach a decent top speed you should gear up(bigger chainring, smaller cog)

Chaining cogs is cheaper, but chainrings come in more sizes.

A few thing to think about, chaining the cog changes the ratio more dramaticaly. Fixed cogs can only be easily found up to 22 teeth, freewheels 24. For the cranks most people have(130 bcd) the minimum size you can get is 38 teeth. The biggest I have seen is 54.

i do not use breaks that;'s why i have legs lol should i get a 54 tooth sprocket? i'm confused

Answer all of the question I said are nessisary to help you find the right gearing, and then I would gladly help. Also what kind of traffic will you be riding in, how long have you been riding bikes, how long have you been riding fixed, and what city do you live in?

ok

yes only bike ride to school everyday and then to like the movies on teh weekend
live in a dallas suburb so it's super flat lol

also i want to skid easy does a big sprocket do that

Lets try this a different way, copy and past these questions then put your answer next to them


Rate your level of leg strength from 1-10(10 being top level racer level):
Rate your level of stamina from 1-10:
How long in miles do you plan on riding every day?
Do you have any goals other than just having fun with this bike?
How long have you been riding bikes regularly?
How long have you been riding fixed?

Also with road, track, and hybrid bikes the big ring infront is called a chainring and the small gear on your wheel is called a cog. People will generally know what you are talking about if you call the chainring a sproket, but not always. Its easier to avoid the confusion all together.

^^ lolz

ok fine you ****** lol


Rate your level of leg strength from 1-10(10 being top level racer level): 5
Rate your level of stamina from 1-10: 7?
How long in miles do you plan on riding every day? i dunno like 11 miles?
Do you have any goals other than just having fun with this bike? tricks
How long have you been riding bikes regularly? froever!!!
How long have you been riding fixed? 4 months lol

Gear down a lot. Since you already have 15 tooth cog glued to your bike you cant change that. But I would go all the way down to a 46 tooth ring. Skidding will be easier, you will accelerate faster, you will be able to stop better, your will gain more stamina, and more usefull leg muscles. Everything about your riding will be better if you gear way down.

Also dont inuslt people that are trying to help you. My posts may seem annoying, but its the only way to acuratly give you advice. Any one that sees a gear ratio on a screen and tells you to change it will not be giving you the full advice you need.

Here's a good gearing calculator: http://software.bareknucklebrigade.com/

Depending on terrain and fitness level, mid-60s to low 70s is a good range for gearing. If you're confident, start with a 70ish gear.

52x15 = 91 gear inches = OW.


FYI:
A change of one tooth in the rear cog is equivalent to two chainring teeth.

For your conversion, the easiest choice is to swap out the larger front chainring for the smaller one.


Choosing a more efficient gear can result in a better, faster, and less injury-prone ride. (Translation: nothing macho about the big ring/high gear, and it won't necessarily get you from A to B faster than an efficient cyclist.)

For general riding on a conversion, the middle or second chainring makes more sense than the larger one: i.e., 42x15 = 75 gear inches. Try that first and then see if you want a larger chainring.

no i'm 52.18 but yah the 18 is glued lol so i'll find a 46 tooth chain ring

and i wasn't calling names i was making joke sorry man i appreesh the help (you ****** lololol)

*****

Is it an 18 tooth cog that is glued on or a 15? Originally you said 15.

There are two people asking questions in this thread. The advice on gearing is useful to both.

WELCOME to the WORLD of PHYSICS!

An odd/even ratio would be better for reducing tire wear (skid patches). 47/18. You may have trouble finding a 47T chainring, I don't know. I used to see 46/18 a lot but more people riding fixed use odd/even ratios now, and if using the bike for "tricks" is your goal.....

Also, I hope that epoxy holds up!

I rode 92 gi for awhile. HTFU or replace chainring. :)

no its a 18 someone else said it was a 15 sorry lol i guess it was confusin

i have NERVAR cranks do they make a 46 tooth ring for those?? it has 5 bolts