what size tire you riding??
10-20-10, 11:18 PM
#26
Fresh Garbage
10-20-10, 11:59 PM
#27
One-track, one-speed mind
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Right now, 28. Thinking I might up it to 32 on my next project (new thread coming soon ... shameless plug).
10-21-10, 04:00 AM
#28
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if you only had one bike, and you use it to commute as well as for fast group rides, then 25 is a good compromise between speed and comfort.
10-21-10, 06:49 AM
#30
Oh, you know...
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Stop putting a "c" after your tire width.
Fast bike: 23mm front and back
City geared: 25 front and back
Fixed: 32 back 28 front
Polo: 38 front and back
26": 1.25"
Fast bike: 23mm front and back
City geared: 25 front and back
Fixed: 32 back 28 front
Polo: 38 front and back
26": 1.25"
Last edited by dsh; 10-21-10 at 07:04 AM.
10-21-10, 08:31 AM
#31
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Side note. Did you know that RiBMo stands for RideBicycleMore
10-21-10, 09:10 AM
#32
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lets see, 25mm for road
25 back 28 front for fixed
26x1.95 studded for winter
28mm for touring bike, though I'll likely replace them with 32s or 35s
MTB 26x2.3
beater round town 27x1.0
etc...
Different tools for different jobs
25 back 28 front for fixed
26x1.95 studded for winter
28mm for touring bike, though I'll likely replace them with 32s or 35s
MTB 26x2.3
beater round town 27x1.0
etc...
Different tools for different jobs
10-21-10, 09:44 AM
#33
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fixed : front vittoria rubino 25mm, rear conti ultra gatorskin 25mm
both hold well under city conditions, all year round
MTB : hutchinson 26x2.0
both hold well under city conditions, all year round
MTB : hutchinson 26x2.0
10-21-10, 10:08 AM
#34
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23, 28, 35, 38mm
23 is worthless unless you are racing. Not sure why companies want this to be the OEM tire.
You can get less rolling resistance riding a 28mm at 80psi, than a 23mm at 120 psi. Yeah, if you are going over 30mph, the 23mm has a small aero advantage, but who cares (unless you are racing)?
The 35, 38mm are good for heavy loads and rough (non paved) travel.
42-50+ are good for curb jumping and hard off road.
23 is worthless unless you are racing. Not sure why companies want this to be the OEM tire.
You can get less rolling resistance riding a 28mm at 80psi, than a 23mm at 120 psi. Yeah, if you are going over 30mph, the 23mm has a small aero advantage, but who cares (unless you are racing)?
The 35, 38mm are good for heavy loads and rough (non paved) travel.
42-50+ are good for curb jumping and hard off road.
10-21-10, 10:16 AM
#35
Constant tinkerer
I have lots of different tires depending on what I'm doing.
23 25 28 for 700c wheels. 1.4" 1.95" 2.1" and 2.4" for 26" MTB wheels.
Because then it wouldn't be a "serious racing machine." People will think it's somehow slower and inferior. Same reason most road bikes don't have fender eyelets or clearance for anything more than a 25/28 tire.
23 25 28 for 700c wheels. 1.4" 1.95" 2.1" and 2.4" for 26" MTB wheels.
Because then it wouldn't be a "serious racing machine." People will think it's somehow slower and inferior. Same reason most road bikes don't have fender eyelets or clearance for anything more than a 25/28 tire.
10-21-10, 10:18 AM
#36
GATC
35s fixed (2.0 geared)
10-21-10, 11:26 AM
#37
Oh, you know...
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10-21-10, 11:37 AM
#38
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23mm tires on all my bikes
10-21-10, 01:09 PM
#39
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28's on the Kilo and 26/1.25 on the single speed mountain bike when in road form.
10-21-10, 01:37 PM
#41
yesterday you said tom.
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Used to run 23s but recently swapped them for 25s for a slightly more comfortable city ride
10-21-10, 01:38 PM
#42
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28s.
They've got me worried about fender clearance for a set I'm picking up soon.
May end up on 25s if they don't clear...looks like a tight fit.
They've got me worried about fender clearance for a set I'm picking up soon.
May end up on 25s if they don't clear...looks like a tight fit.
10-21-10, 02:48 PM
#45
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23, 28, 35, 38mm
23 is worthless unless you are racing. Not sure why companies want this to be the OEM tire.
You can get less rolling resistance riding a 28mm at 80psi, than a 23mm at 120 psi. Yeah, if you are going over 30mph, the 23mm has a small aero advantage, but who cares (unless you are racing)?
The 35, 38mm are good for heavy loads and rough (non paved) travel.
42-50+ are good for curb jumping and hard off road.
23 is worthless unless you are racing. Not sure why companies want this to be the OEM tire.
You can get less rolling resistance riding a 28mm at 80psi, than a 23mm at 120 psi. Yeah, if you are going over 30mph, the 23mm has a small aero advantage, but who cares (unless you are racing)?
The 35, 38mm are good for heavy loads and rough (non paved) travel.
42-50+ are good for curb jumping and hard off road.
10-21-10, 04:58 PM
#46
Constant tinkerer
"The short answer to this question is that, yes, a wider tire of similar construction will have lower rolling resistance than a narrower one at the same pressure. This fact is, however, of no practical value. If you are comparing two tires of similar construction, with the same load, and the same pressure, either the wider tire is overinflated, or the narrower tire is underinflated!"
10-21-10, 05:02 PM
#47
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32 in front, 28 in back.
10-21-10, 05:17 PM
#50
GATC
Read Sheldon's tire article: https://sheldonbrown.com/tires.html#pressure
"The short answer to this question is that, yes, a wider tire of similar construction will have lower rolling resistance than a narrower one at the same pressure. This fact is, however, of no practical value. If you are comparing two tires of similar construction, with the same load, and the same pressure, either the wider tire is overinflated, or the narrower tire is underinflated!"
"The short answer to this question is that, yes, a wider tire of similar construction will have lower rolling resistance than a narrower one at the same pressure. This fact is, however, of no practical value. If you are comparing two tires of similar construction, with the same load, and the same pressure, either the wider tire is overinflated, or the narrower tire is underinflated!"
https://www.zipp.com/support/askjosh/tires.php#
(you need to click on the 'rolling resistance' tab)
overall, you are using more energy to go slower and you're wearing your tires out faster. The problem is that high tire pressures feel fast as your body perceives all the high frequency vibrations from the road surface as being faster than a smooth ride.